In my opinion: no, according to the datasheet specs that is. The AK4113 has even higher lock range than AK4118, and can detect more input frequencies also. I'm just in favor of the first version PCB because of the better routing for the analog +5V psu. Better grounding also on first version, better Vref decoupling (Wima's). PCB suits modifications better.
Kastor L: No, I didn't hear filter differences yet. I'll have a look at it, I just did a major modification (Salas shunt reg for analog +5V) and have some complications too. But this regulator sure is damn fast, so I might hear a difference now. I'll keep you posted.
Nino
Yes, you probably mean the second version 2xAK4399 as a whole is more expensive.
I don't think the AK4118 is worth the extra money. Also the different +12V/-12V analog psu would not justify higher price IMHO, but you can decide for yourself of course...
I think the bigger 8200u Elnas are worth the extra money though, I like them a lot.
I don't think the AK4118 is worth the extra money. Also the different +12V/-12V analog psu would not justify higher price IMHO, but you can decide for yourself of course...
I think the bigger 8200u Elnas are worth the extra money though, I like them a lot.
I suppose you mean inverted output by "-ve". If you short one of analog outputs to ground, you will probably have enormous distortion problem because increased load on -ve outputs of dac chip which will cause many problems. If you want to try simplest way of using unbalanced output, +ve with capacitor and ground reference is the only way.
interesting.. did you check analog ground? maybe you should tap analog ground from dac side. you can try adding a resistor (8k2) after 11K's also.
They don't look like resistors, but... what is the resistance of the blacks?
I thought they were carbon comp. resistors at first look. They more look alike diodes also.
I think the 2k resistors are fine.
Check your installation manual of the tube output stage. Follow the example for the AK4396 DAC, but use only SE output (example 3.14, page 28).
You don't need the yellow capacitor, just connect a wire from the 2k resistors to the R/L in of the board. And run a wire form both DACs analog ground to the tube board's ground connections. You must set the jumpers of the board as in the example.
regards,
Nino
Check your installation manual of the tube output stage. Follow the example for the AK4396 DAC, but use only SE output (example 3.14, page 28).
You don't need the yellow capacitor, just connect a wire from the 2k resistors to the R/L in of the board. And run a wire form both DACs analog ground to the tube board's ground connections. You must set the jumpers of the board as in the example.
regards,
Nino
I bought a few 38S and 380S PCB while I was in Singapore a few years ago at US$150 each. They bear the Mark Levinson logo and the dealer's name on the outer boxes. Eventually I discovered that the dealer was bankrupted and all its belongings were being sold in a public auction. The shop bought all PCBs and sold them in an old plaza.
I had a 38 at that time and is really delighted to upgrade my 38 to 380S at such low cost. The improvement was significant and the box even has a 380S panel and an upgrade label so that you can change the front panel to reflect the changes. I also noticed that ML had an upgrade program some years ago to upgrade your models from 38 to whatever available at a price. The upgrade is very simple as there are only two PCBs in the premap - a PCB in the front panel for displaying purpose and the main PCB in the chassis. I sold the other PCBs except a 38S PCB was not working. It appears that the 38S is a swapped piece that the Singapore dealer might keep it after the 38S was being upgraded to 380 or 380S. I tried to repair it but in vain therefore I took out all parts to other DIY projects.
At a cost? I don't know if it is expensive or not.
I had a 38 at that time and is really delighted to upgrade my 38 to 380S at such low cost. The improvement was significant and the box even has a 380S panel and an upgrade label so that you can change the front panel to reflect the changes. I also noticed that ML had an upgrade program some years ago to upgrade your models from 38 to whatever available at a price. The upgrade is very simple as there are only two PCBs in the premap - a PCB in the front panel for displaying purpose and the main PCB in the chassis. I sold the other PCBs except a 38S PCB was not working. It appears that the 38S is a swapped piece that the Singapore dealer might keep it after the 38S was being upgraded to 380 or 380S. I tried to repair it but in vain therefore I took out all parts to other DIY projects.
At a cost? I don't know if it is expensive or not.
Last edited:
Newer version of Dual AK4399
I just received a newer version of Dual AK4399. The major changes are:
1. Using AK4118A as receiver
2. Inserted the missing 0.1uF in the older version around the DACs
3. Use LT1963-3.3 regulator for the receiver
4. Use MJE15032 and MJE15033 as power supply regulator for opamps instead of LT317/337
5. The crystal is next to the receiver
I just received a newer version of Dual AK4399. The major changes are:
1. Using AK4118A as receiver
2. Inserted the missing 0.1uF in the older version around the DACs
3. Use LT1963-3.3 regulator for the receiver
4. Use MJE15032 and MJE15033 as power supply regulator for opamps instead of LT317/337
5. The crystal is next to the receiver
Attachments
Last edited:
This is not a new version, it's version 2 PCB with AK4118, as discussed earlier in the thread. In my opinion this version is worse than the first version. Grounding of the separate analog/digital +5V psu of this board is also changed, for the worse. And no filmcaps are used anymore for decoupling VREF pins.
But now you have both versions, you can judge yourself.
This is not a new version, it's version 2 PCB with AK4118, as discussed earlier in the thread. In my opinion this version is worse than the first version. Grounding of the separate analog/digital +5V psu of this board is also changed, for the worse. And no filmcaps are used anymore for decoupling VREF pins.
But now you have both versions, you can judge yourself.
yep, that's the same like mine, I'd like to hear about your comparison
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.