Plenty of threads on this forum about his stuff being fake. He is one of the known outlets of fake products on eBay.
I recently got (and returned) a set of 2SK246/2SJ103. The strange bit is that the P-channel devices were genuine, but the N-channel ones were some very obviously remarked Fairchild JFETs. The threshold voltages didn't match either.
The guy had the gall to say that the devices were genuine, but since his shipment had been delayed for over a month I had already got a refund and held all the cards. I shipped back the JFETs and deducted the costs from the owed total.
The normal process is for you to raise a claim and provide evidence to eBay (this thread and the pictures will suffice) for a full refund for counterfeit parts. The usual policy that is followed is to destroy the devices and get a full refund. If enough people do this, maybe he will feel sufficiently threatened and be a little more circumspect.
I recently got (and returned) a set of 2SK246/2SJ103. The strange bit is that the P-channel devices were genuine, but the N-channel ones were some very obviously remarked Fairchild JFETs. The threshold voltages didn't match either.
The guy had the gall to say that the devices were genuine, but since his shipment had been delayed for over a month I had already got a refund and held all the cards. I shipped back the JFETs and deducted the costs from the owed total.
The normal process is for you to raise a claim and provide evidence to eBay (this thread and the pictures will suffice) for a full refund for counterfeit parts. The usual policy that is followed is to destroy the devices and get a full refund. If enough people do this, maybe he will feel sufficiently threatened and be a little more circumspect.
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Thanks for letting me know this seller is to be avoided. I was actually a little afraid that I might tarnish the seller's reputation. It looks like he may be the mastermind.
Where did you buy those ICs ? Are you certain they're genuine ?
I'm asking because the lettering on one of them is roughly centered, while on the other is towards the back of the chip (reaches the back edge of the chip in fact!).
I'm curious whether genuine TI parts are so inconsistently marked.
Have you noticed that all the ICs in that picture, even though from two different sellers, have the same date/lot code? 3465DYT. That's kind of weird and suggests the other seller hasn't sold you genuine parts either.
I am actually not sure at this point if they came from two different sources. I have ordered 10 pieces from aforementioned seller. And I can't find a record that I bought another set from another seller. I only assumed that they came from two different sellers because one has dimples and another doesn't.
Ah then it makes more senseThey just didn't grind all the parts down to the same degree - some of them lost the dimple completely and others are left with a shallower than normal one.
Ya, indeed! However why would they sand/grind the top surface?
If markings are silkscreened , the old technique, say over 10-15 years ago, that means they use some kind of paint, often called "ink" .
Original parts often used 2 component Epoxy paint, which hardens like... epoxy (duh!!), adheres very well, is hard, and resists chemicals.
Easy to read, of course, because you choose any ink colour which has good contrast with background.
there's also another technique called "tampography" ,think a rubber stamp and won't be far, easy to recognize because paint is squashed out, so edges are stronger and centerlines are weaker.
Most common is white ink on black epoxy bodies, but also black ink on metallics (TO3 - TO5 - etc.)
, glass (1N4148n or Zeners)
or on light brown or light blue or white ceramic body.
Fakers lightly sanded epoxy ink labels and re-silkscreened , sometimes with cheap non epoxy inks which could be wiped off with a rag soaked in solvent.
Then manufacturers started literally burning epoxy with a needle beam laser, so letters were very hard to read brown on black.
Can't be chemically removed, of course, and reaches some depth into the body, so sanding must be deep too.
Now you know why your fakes were so deeply sanded.
Probably by hand, held on some crude device to hold them against a belt sander, that explains the inconsistency.
Original parts often used 2 component Epoxy paint, which hardens like... epoxy (duh!!), adheres very well, is hard, and resists chemicals.
Easy to read, of course, because you choose any ink colour which has good contrast with background.
there's also another technique called "tampography" ,think a rubber stamp and won't be far, easy to recognize because paint is squashed out, so edges are stronger and centerlines are weaker.
Most common is white ink on black epoxy bodies, but also black ink on metallics (TO3 - TO5 - etc.)
, glass (1N4148n or Zeners)
or on light brown or light blue or white ceramic body.
Fakers lightly sanded epoxy ink labels and re-silkscreened , sometimes with cheap non epoxy inks which could be wiped off with a rag soaked in solvent.
Then manufacturers started literally burning epoxy with a needle beam laser, so letters were very hard to read brown on black.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Can't be chemically removed, of course, and reaches some depth into the body, so sanding must be deep too.
Now you know why your fakes were so deeply sanded.
Probably by hand, held on some crude device to hold them against a belt sander, that explains the inconsistency.
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They're from Elektronik und Technik bei reichelt elektronik günstig bestellen, my usual supplier. If they sell cheap stuff (like CDIL) they tell you so
.Of course I didn't test those parts to their specs so I cannot be certain, but I trust the supplier. And if they were fakes, then some! Look at the elaborate typeface with broken-up letters (kinda like FE-Schrift) and the finely lasered outlines. The package obviously wasn't sanded or treated any other way, so I'm pretty sure that such a mis-alignment of the whole marking might have happened even to someone like TI.
Anybody know how such a 'marking machine' works? More like a pick-and-place or rather like an assembly line?
Just stumbled upon this: http://www.cti-us.com/pdf/CCAP-101InspectExamplesA6.pdf
Nice read with lots of pictures
Nice read with lots of pictures
Just stumbled upon this: http://www.cti-us.com/pdf/CCAP-101InspectExamplesA6.pdf
Nice read with lots of pictures
Outstanding!
Well that's certainly one that you seriously don't want to ever have a fake of.
Unfortunately the military and aerospace components are the ones where the repairer really has to use the correct unobtanium part and is willing to pay very high prices.
These parts were always very low volume and "hand crafted" so faking the packaging is in some ways easier than high volume parts
Well, there's a strong economic incentive to do so.
A friend of mine earns some 10X what I do, he only repairs Aviation equipment (radios - radar - altimeters - pressure/speed/airspeed/navigation/etc. stuff)
He must buy from an officially approved supplier,and pay , say, U$15 to U$45 for a simple mini toggle switch which in its common version can be had for a couple bucks.
The only difference I see is that all the, say, Cessna original ones have a flattened wider lever, while the plain vanilla ones have thinner rounded ones.
as you might imagine, he bought 100 *good* but not Aviation specific Switchcraft ones, better than the average chinese one, no doubt, but which cost him a few bucks each, and he uses those, yet charges the real expensive ones.
Must be happening all over the World.
A friend of mine earns some 10X what I do, he only repairs Aviation equipment (radios - radar - altimeters - pressure/speed/airspeed/navigation/etc. stuff)
He must buy from an officially approved supplier,and pay , say, U$15 to U$45 for a simple mini toggle switch which in its common version can be had for a couple bucks.
The only difference I see is that all the, say, Cessna original ones have a flattened wider lever, while the plain vanilla ones have thinner rounded ones.
as you might imagine, he bought 100 *good* but not Aviation specific Switchcraft ones, better than the average chinese one, no doubt, but which cost him a few bucks each, and he uses those, yet charges the real expensive ones.
Must be happening all over the World.
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