Real 14 gauge would be quite thick (the wire in your picture is probably 20 or 22), but the listing and linked page says "strand count and size is slightly smaller compared to the American Wire Gauge (AWG)" - so it's hard to know what you would be getting. Also, if it matters, this is zip cord (the red and the black bonded together in parallel).
I thought so, Thanks for confirming DrewT. These look like they may work: 22 AWG Black Red Wire Copper Cores Insulated Cable White 9 ft. High Quality! | eBay
..Sunwu TDA 7498 with heatsink and fan
Hi Gyus,
I bougth the sanwu red with the TDA 7498e chip.
TDA7498E 160W+160W Digital Power Amplifier Board Support BTL Mode DC 15-36V | eBay
i use following equipment for load test:
my Rigol DP832 in Parallel mode with 30V 3/A in parallel.
the freuqenz generator Rigol Dp1022 and my oszi DS1054.
2x 20W 8ohm resitorin parallel for 4 ohm load for each channel
input i from BCa to RCA in the board with 1 Vpp.
Gain is dip 2 = 35,6 db
1
if you buy this kit replace the original thermal fluid ! it is to thin ! if it become warm it meld shortened the chip and switch the amp in a kind of idle mode.
2
the original caps are fake i guess, because in my opinion this size is not possible to get 470µF with 50V. according to the original datasheet its recommenden 2x 2200µF and 50V
i will have two possibilities --> blue or gold ones...which should i choose?
At 110W power consumption on my PSU (DP 832) i can see on the output channel a kind of distortion.
any suggestions?
i tested the baord at my max. power of my PSU of 88 watt each output channel and the the max power is then appr. 175W.
kr
christian
Hi Gyus,
I bougth the sanwu red with the TDA 7498e chip.
TDA7498E 160W+160W Digital Power Amplifier Board Support BTL Mode DC 15-36V | eBay
i use following equipment for load test:
my Rigol DP832 in Parallel mode with 30V 3/A in parallel.
the freuqenz generator Rigol Dp1022 and my oszi DS1054.
2x 20W 8ohm resitorin parallel for 4 ohm load for each channel
input i from BCa to RCA in the board with 1 Vpp.
Gain is dip 2 = 35,6 db
1
if you buy this kit replace the original thermal fluid ! it is to thin ! if it become warm it meld shortened the chip and switch the amp in a kind of idle mode.
2
the original caps are fake i guess, because in my opinion this size is not possible to get 470µF with 50V. according to the original datasheet its recommenden 2x 2200µF and 50V
i will have two possibilities --> blue or gold ones...which should i choose?
At 110W power consumption on my PSU (DP 832) i can see on the output channel a kind of distortion.
any suggestions?
i tested the baord at my max. power of my PSU of 88 watt each output channel and the the max power is then appr. 175W.
kr
christian
Attachments
Last edited:
...pic of the thermal fluid....
good evening again..
some pics of the too thin thermal fluid on this board. After cleaning its works fine.
The fan is starting if the heat is up to appr. 37 °C. low nois
minimum input on RCA is more than 400mV pp? is that right?
thanks
greetings from Vienna
chris
good evening again..
some pics of the too thin thermal fluid on this board. After cleaning its works fine.
The fan is starting if the heat is up to appr. 37 °C. low nois
minimum input on RCA is more than 400mV pp? is that right?
thanks
greetings from Vienna
chris
Attachments
There is a brief test of this amplifier board on DIYBudgetAudio.com under "TDA7498E based class D power amplifier". No noise observed there and no thermal problems it seems.
Twelve 470uF decoupling capacitors are a good start but not sufficient for such a powerful amplifier if used with a (suitable) power supply to near its full potential. More may be added external of the supply terminals.
Twelve 470uF decoupling capacitors are a good start but not sufficient for such a powerful amplifier if used with a (suitable) power supply to near its full potential. More may be added external of the supply terminals.
merci for the link !
Yes i will try more caps at the supply rail........but first i have to order the SMPS caps for the HS200
kr
chris
This image of the underside of the board will help:
Assuming you will be running in stereo, then use the 3 pin connector next to the volume pot for your L & R signal inputs and ground, using the plug and cable supplied.
Haha, my mother already learned me "turn around before you ask..."
Thank you Yatsushiro!Great sound, very clean, crisp and clear! (Mamboberry) I have the Q Acoustics 3020 and I know that are not bass boxes. But compared with my oldy Denon I miss a bit bass. Is it possible to do that hardware wise, bitperfect? I added the Volumio "simple equalizer plugin" , but it sounds a little artficial.
Some notice from DIYBudgetAudio:
"Of course, for permanent use more energy storage should be provided external of the board in order to ensure sufficient energy to handle powerful bass transients. The board was tried out with a 19V/90W power adapter, a 24V/120W power adapter and a 36V/180W power supply, all using 2x4700uF buffer capacitors external of the amplifier board. All worked well.
Between the power input terminals and the on-board decoupling capacitors two diodes, seemingly of the Schottky type, are connected in parallel. Such diodes provide a clever protection against wrong polarity of the supply voltage but reduce the effect of external decoupling capacitors a little. So, these two diodes were removed and replaced with solid wire connections."
"Of course, for permanent use more energy storage should be provided external of the board in order to ensure sufficient energy to handle powerful bass transients. The board was tried out with a 19V/90W power adapter, a 24V/120W power adapter and a 36V/180W power supply, all using 2x4700uF buffer capacitors external of the amplifier board. All worked well.
Between the power input terminals and the on-board decoupling capacitors two diodes, seemingly of the Schottky type, are connected in parallel. Such diodes provide a clever protection against wrong polarity of the supply voltage but reduce the effect of external decoupling capacitors a little. So, these two diodes were removed and replaced with solid wire connections."
Hi, I have ordered the following tda7498 module. Can any one suggest some essential modifications to improve it? I am a complete noob. Thanks.
Aiyima TDA7498 Amplifiers Digital Stereo Power Audio Amplifier Board 2X100W Amplificador Dual Channel Speaker Impedance 8 ohms
Aiyima TDA7498 Amplifiers Digital Stereo Power Audio Amplifier Board 2X100W Amplificador Dual Channel Speaker Impedance 8 ohms-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
Aiyima TDA7498 Amplifiers Digital Stereo Power Audio Amplifier Board 2X100W Amplificador Dual Channel Speaker Impedance 8 ohms
Aiyima TDA7498 Amplifiers Digital Stereo Power Audio Amplifier Board 2X100W Amplificador Dual Channel Speaker Impedance 8 ohms-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
The input coupling capacitors seem to be foil, fine.
The output filter capacitors seem to be foil as well, fine.
The output filter chokes are SMD types with a peak rating (before saturation) of about 3A - not sufficient.
The power line decoupling capacitors are six 470uF/50V that offer good margins for the supply voltage but are insufficient with most power supplies for 2x100W.
A good size heatsink but you have to see if it gets above 50 degrees Celsius.
Most importantly the output filter chokes should be changed to types with a rating of minimum 8A. It may be difficult to get other and bigger chokes mounted instead of the SMD ones.
For more power supply decoupling, arrange some 5000uF-10000uF just outside of the power supply terminals.
Lastly, consider short-circuiting the protection diode (polarity protection) found in between the output filter chokes. Then your external decoupling has got more effect.
You will most likely be happy with this board.
The output filter capacitors seem to be foil as well, fine.
The output filter chokes are SMD types with a peak rating (before saturation) of about 3A - not sufficient.
The power line decoupling capacitors are six 470uF/50V that offer good margins for the supply voltage but are insufficient with most power supplies for 2x100W.
A good size heatsink but you have to see if it gets above 50 degrees Celsius.
Most importantly the output filter chokes should be changed to types with a rating of minimum 8A. It may be difficult to get other and bigger chokes mounted instead of the SMD ones.
For more power supply decoupling, arrange some 5000uF-10000uF just outside of the power supply terminals.
Lastly, consider short-circuiting the protection diode (polarity protection) found in between the output filter chokes. Then your external decoupling has got more effect.
You will most likely be happy with this board.
I have that board. It's very good
You may find you like it just fine the way it is........ stock.
So, listen to it awhile before you go modification crazy.
Mine is stock. Sounds great. In fact, I think it's one of the best chip amps I have. (Now maybe 6 or 7 of them?)
It's nice to have the gain selection that is so conveniently adjusted.
Enjoy it!
Mark
You may find you like it just fine the way it is........ stock.
So, listen to it awhile before you go modification crazy.
Mine is stock. Sounds great. In fact, I think it's one of the best chip amps I have. (Now maybe 6 or 7 of them?)
It's nice to have the gain selection that is so conveniently adjusted.
Enjoy it!
Mark
Thanks FauxFrench. looks like I don't have to do lot's of modifications. I am going to pair with 30w 8ohm speakers(peak power 50wpc). So I just want 30w clean power. Is 24v 6a psu enough for the purpose? Do you have any cheap but decent psu recommendation? Planning to connect 4700uf (at least 50v) just outside the power supply as you have recommended. But I'm not sure if I can replace those chokes (because it's very difficult to get good quality components here in my country). Thanks again.
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