I apologize if this is a complete noob question, but is the signal input for this board supposed to be amplified or a low power signal that would come from a pre-amp?
I received my board and power supply recently and I'm quite impressed. I went for the following (based on wanting it to arrive fairly soon, but also not cost too much):
Board: LTC TDA7498 Class-D Audio 2*100W Dual Channel Digital Stereo Amplifier Board | eBay
Power supply: AU Plug DC 5V 12V 24V Power Supply Charger Transformer LED Strips Adapter | eBay
I've got it running a pair of Yamaha NS-P60 surround speakers to replace my old Logitech computer speakers. It sounds pretty darn great for the money spent, and gets plenty loud enough.
When I removed the board from the packaging, the heatsink fell off, so I'm not too keen to push it hard for longer periods until I get that fixed up. Have ordered some replacement "glue" and also thermal transfer pads so I can try a couple of different ways.
I will have to get some photos of it. I'm ordering a case to mount it in and some switches for mute and standby. If anybody has any good suggestions, I'd happily take them onboard.
Board: LTC TDA7498 Class-D Audio 2*100W Dual Channel Digital Stereo Amplifier Board | eBay
Power supply: AU Plug DC 5V 12V 24V Power Supply Charger Transformer LED Strips Adapter | eBay
I've got it running a pair of Yamaha NS-P60 surround speakers to replace my old Logitech computer speakers. It sounds pretty darn great for the money spent, and gets plenty loud enough.
When I removed the board from the packaging, the heatsink fell off, so I'm not too keen to push it hard for longer periods until I get that fixed up. Have ordered some replacement "glue" and also thermal transfer pads so I can try a couple of different ways.
I will have to get some photos of it. I'm ordering a case to mount it in and some switches for mute and standby. If anybody has any good suggestions, I'd happily take them onboard.
Hey guys. I've ordered the same board as this gentleman, after my first board (This one) sparkled and died as I tried it for the first time yesterday. Not sure what was wrong with it, but I blew a couple of glass fuses, just hope my PSU is OK.. So now I have to wait weeks AGAIN
This board does not have a pot for the volume though.. Should I salvage the one from the burnt board, and do I simply connect it like this:
Hi guys.
I just received the red sanwu tda7498 board TDA7498E 160W+160W Dual Channel Audio Stereo Power Amplifier Board Module New | eBay
Works good and sound good with the fx audio 32v 5a psu, I just changed output wire as I guess it is way to thin to feed the board properly , with a piece of 2x1.5mm2 speaker wire it seem better and soud much more fuller.
That board come with a fan but I never seen it running, does anyone can confirm it's only working when heat is reaching ?
I'll test more in detail when I get some more time but it seems as good as the results I get from some tpa3116 boards, but it's clearly powerful and it seem produce a bit fuller bass sound.
Best regards.
I just received the red sanwu tda7498 board TDA7498E 160W+160W Dual Channel Audio Stereo Power Amplifier Board Module New | eBay
Works good and sound good with the fx audio 32v 5a psu, I just changed output wire as I guess it is way to thin to feed the board properly , with a piece of 2x1.5mm2 speaker wire it seem better and soud much more fuller.
That board come with a fan but I never seen it running, does anyone can confirm it's only working when heat is reaching ?
I'll test more in detail when I get some more time but it seems as good as the results I get from some tpa3116 boards, but it's clearly powerful and it seem produce a bit fuller bass sound.
Best regards.
I have 2 of the same boards powered by two 36v 340W supplies... I can confirm that the fans come on when the board temp gets high enough.
Hi. I have a newbie question.
I have just received my board from AliExpress. Its a TDA7498 BT 4.0 board with a DC24V and 3A max current output. Got it for $19.99.
I have noticed that they have a voltage regulator chip ST78M05 connected at the side of the heat sink. Read up that this regulator supports voltages up to 24V and current up to 1.5A. Would there be an issue using a 24V 3A power supply with this?
I am using this board for a boom box project with a pair of Dayton Audio ND90-8 20 Watts RMS drivers.
Also going by the data in posts #88 and #89 by gpapag (as pointed out by Mark), shorting the resistors at the output stage seems to really ensure that the output voltage and THD+N levels are closer to the TDA7498 data sheet for a 24V into 8 Ohm load. Plan to do the same and give it a try. I had also seen a video by Bob H where he has done the same. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jGWGAgPx_jw
Here is the link to the board I have bought:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Blu...32721824799.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.IVP9UC
I have just received my board from AliExpress. Its a TDA7498 BT 4.0 board with a DC24V and 3A max current output. Got it for $19.99.
I have noticed that they have a voltage regulator chip ST78M05 connected at the side of the heat sink. Read up that this regulator supports voltages up to 24V and current up to 1.5A. Would there be an issue using a 24V 3A power supply with this?
I am using this board for a boom box project with a pair of Dayton Audio ND90-8 20 Watts RMS drivers.
Also going by the data in posts #88 and #89 by gpapag (as pointed out by Mark), shorting the resistors at the output stage seems to really ensure that the output voltage and THD+N levels are closer to the TDA7498 data sheet for a 24V into 8 Ohm load. Plan to do the same and give it a try. I had also seen a video by Bob H where he has done the same. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jGWGAgPx_jw
Here is the link to the board I have bought:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Blu...32721824799.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.IVP9UC
Nice built. That board has really good sound for the money. I m running it at 31V.
It might need a small fan if you you are going to run it full volume for alot of time.
That voltage regulator probably supplies 5V to the Bluetooth module. Current draw should be negligible.
It should work fine with 24V 3A, especially if you have 8-ohm speakers.
That amp is capable of pushing ~2x50W into 6-ohms and ~2x40W into 8-ohms at "reasonable" distortion levels. With a 24V 3A supply, it will be limited to about 2x30W, though audible loudness difference between 2x40W and 2x30W is pretty minimal.
Last edited:
Thanks ravels. That must be the reason the ST78M05 chip is there.
I chose the 24V 3A amp as specified by the board manufacturer. The target was to get around 25-30 watts RMS from the TDA7498 for the ND90-8's which are rated at 20 watts RMS and 40 watts peak. There would be some headroom left.
The data sheet of the TDA7498 shows that for less than 0.5-1% THD at f=1khz, the output with 36V is around 60 watts per channel. So you're right, I should get around 30 watts per channel with the 24V 3A supply assuming around 80% efficiency. Just need to check whether the 5 watts 2.2 Ohm resistors on the board need to be shorted to achieve this output. Read somewhere that the resistors are put there in case someone runs 4 ohm speakers through the board.
I chose the 24V 3A amp as specified by the board manufacturer. The target was to get around 25-30 watts RMS from the TDA7498 for the ND90-8's which are rated at 20 watts RMS and 40 watts peak. There would be some headroom left.
The data sheet of the TDA7498 shows that for less than 0.5-1% THD at f=1khz, the output with 36V is around 60 watts per channel. So you're right, I should get around 30 watts per channel with the 24V 3A supply assuming around 80% efficiency. Just need to check whether the 5 watts 2.2 Ohm resistors on the board need to be shorted to achieve this output. Read somewhere that the resistors are put there in case someone runs 4 ohm speakers through the board.
I'm not sure if someone has mentioned it here before but anyway,
The tda7498 design with single 2200uf 35v cap and those big 5w resistors, is an FM killer. This amp causes FM interface to the point that FM does not work.
I had a lot of doubts. Currently, I'm at 50km-ish distance from the FM broadcast station/antenna. I took this amp(already built using 36v 200w PS and fm Bluetooth module) to a friends house who lives within 5kms radius of the FM broadcast station. When I ran amp at his house, the FM module was getting reception. I could also hear sharp dot noises(like the sound in b/w movies of the 1900s).
In other words, the FM with the tda7498 board will only work if you live in the city close to the station(under 7kms). I have no idea which component in this board is responsible for killing FM unfortunately.
Still a good board if you ignore the FM.
The tda7498 design with single 2200uf 35v cap and those big 5w resistors, is an FM killer. This amp causes FM interface to the point that FM does not work.
I had a lot of doubts. Currently, I'm at 50km-ish distance from the FM broadcast station/antenna. I took this amp(already built using 36v 200w PS and fm Bluetooth module) to a friends house who lives within 5kms radius of the FM broadcast station. When I ran amp at his house, the FM module was getting reception. I could also hear sharp dot noises(like the sound in b/w movies of the 1900s).
In other words, the FM with the tda7498 board will only work if you live in the city close to the station(under 7kms). I have no idea which component in this board is responsible for killing FM unfortunately.
Still a good board if you ignore the FM.
The Bluetooth 4.0 module on my board works flawlessly. Its reaches around 40 feet with a wall in between. I have my amplifier board in a wooden boom box with two ND90 8 Ohm speakers, each rated at 20 watts RMS. The bass is pretty good from the amp and speaker combo.
I am driving the set up with a 24VDC 3A PSU. The issue I have is that there is distortion at the topmost levels. This could be because I still haven't shorted the two white resistors on the amp board and according to posts #88 and #89 THD levels are 1% at 20 watts, over 10% at 25 watts and 20% at 30 watts in such a scenario. This changes to THD 0.2% at 20 watts, 0.2% at 25 watts and 1% at 30 watts with a 24VDC supply once the resistors are removed.
I am guessing the amp is pushing out 25 - 30 watts per channel at the topmost levels with the PSU I am using and its putting out distorted sound at the those levels.
Plan to short the resistors once I am back from my trip.
I am driving the set up with a 24VDC 3A PSU. The issue I have is that there is distortion at the topmost levels. This could be because I still haven't shorted the two white resistors on the amp board and according to posts #88 and #89 THD levels are 1% at 20 watts, over 10% at 25 watts and 20% at 30 watts in such a scenario. This changes to THD 0.2% at 20 watts, 0.2% at 25 watts and 1% at 30 watts with a 24VDC supply once the resistors are removed.
I am guessing the amp is pushing out 25 - 30 watts per channel at the topmost levels with the PSU I am using and its putting out distorted sound at the those levels.
Plan to short the resistors once I am back from my trip.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.