i built both the leach super amps and the tigersaurus around the 80's...
based on that i found the tigersaurus as having more punchy bass....YMMV....
but all around i liked the super leach better, sound like a tubey amp to me...
yes, there were issues with the Tigersaurus, Bryston used the topology of Dan Meyer in many of their amps....
to trim output node offset voltages, i had to do circuit cheats using trimpots, not a real good practice...
perhaps the Achilles' heel of this design is the voltage gain in the output stage, and the CFP pair are indeed a pain to tame....
unlike Leach and others, the output stage had only current gain, voltage gain is almost unity...
so much so that when i discovered leach super amps, i stopped making the Tigersaurus amps....
this amp was designed at a time when higher Vceo transistors were not yet fully developed, not so anymore today and there are a lot more choices today than in the 70's...
even the input stage can be made to run higher rails, so that voltage gain in the output stage is no longer required....
to trim output node offset voltages, i had to do circuit cheats using trimpots, not a real good practice...
perhaps the Achilles' heel of this design is the voltage gain in the output stage, and the CFP pair are indeed a pain to tame....
unlike Leach and others, the output stage had only current gain, voltage gain is almost unity...
so much so that when i discovered leach super amps, i stopped making the Tigersaurus amps....
this amp was designed at a time when higher Vceo transistors were not yet fully developed, not so anymore today and there are a lot more choices today than in the 70's...
even the input stage can be made to run higher rails, so that voltage gain in the output stage is no longer required....
Please forgive if this has been covered already, but this is a really long thread. I'm looking to build a sub-woofer amp. Is the Honey Badger a good choice for this application? If so, are there changes to make to the "normal" layout?
If the Honey Badger is not a good fit for a mono subwoofer amp, could anyone suggest a DIY that has a pcb available that is?
Thanks and regards!
If the Honey Badger is not a good fit for a mono subwoofer amp, could anyone suggest a DIY that has a pcb available that is?
Thanks and regards!
Three things to consider for a badger sub -
-Increase the VAS current (R27 =56-68R)
- Compensation , no need for tmc ....jumper C7 , just 100pF for C8 (NO R24).
Diode "D-BC" is especially helpful as most push a sub amp hard.
C1 = 10u C2= can be 330-470p , we qre just concerned with <200hz here !
-SOA and thermal.- 4R woofer = 50V rails - larger heatsink. 8R = as in the
manual w/ a larger heatsink .
Already applied this to the similar wolverine (my sub amp)..
The Badger should do just as well in this application. Overbuild and
de-rating is the key for sub success .... (MT-200's or semelab outputs , even).
OS
Hi all, I am new here and speed read through entire thread. Is it possible to etch my own boards, (i read somewhere the moderator mentioning it.) If so,
1. Can someone /designer/diyaudio post the layout here, the latest one.
2. the BOM (the one on the store link/help desk thread does not contain all the parts for V2.4 (I guess), clip diode (C8 to Q9 comes to mind e.g.)
3. The schematica.
all the best
Octave1
1. Can someone /designer/diyaudio post the layout here, the latest one.
2. the BOM (the one on the store link/help desk thread does not contain all the parts for V2.4 (I guess), clip diode (C8 to Q9 comes to mind e.g.)
3. The schematica.
all the best
Octave1
I have built this amp and am happy with the sound. I am running Maggies and would like to explore running this design to it's max. Has anyone explored that yet. I currently am getting ~200-225 watts into 5.5 ohm load. With higher power supplies can this be pushed further? I have some very big heatsinks and forced cooling if needed. I am currently set up with ML21193/194 outputs which I believe are pretty robust. Also running rails at +/-62Vdc. Thanks in advance.
Your right Andrew I need to verify that the amp is running out of steam. Maggies are notorious for eating up the power though. I'll get a scope on it and verify what is going on. I hear a specific sound from the speaker at high volumes. Maggie people tell me that most of the time it is the amp that gives out when driving them at high levels.
I have tested on the bench with 5.5 ohm load. Everything looks like it is working correctly. With one channel tested it clips at 37vRMS. About 225 watt. It is being supplied with a 1kVA XFMR. The speaker is 5.5 ohm load. It is rated @84db/2.83v/500HZ at 1 meter. Magneplanar suggests an amp rated at 200W into 8ohms each channel. So what can be done safely with the input voltage to raise the rails?
FreeC, try a 4r0 load and a 3r0 load and a 2r7 load. See how much the maximum unclipped output voltage varies as the load resistance falls.
A guide for assessing the current capability of an amplifier+PSU is as follows.
For an 8ohms capable amplifier, expect the 4r0 output to drop by 0.5dBV for a very capable amp+PSU and drop by 1.5dBV for a very incapable amp+PSU
5r5 is not a severe test for an 8ohms capable amplifier. It is not even a moderate test for a 8ohms capable amplifier.
2r7 is a more severe test for an 8ohms capable amplifier, but still not as stressfull as a severe 8ohms reactive speaker.
If you need 4ohms capability for your speakers, then do the current assessment using a 2r0 load.
A guide for assessing the current capability of an amplifier+PSU is as follows.
For an 8ohms capable amplifier, expect the 4r0 output to drop by 0.5dBV for a very capable amp+PSU and drop by 1.5dBV for a very incapable amp+PSU
5r5 is not a severe test for an 8ohms capable amplifier. It is not even a moderate test for a 8ohms capable amplifier.
2r7 is a more severe test for an 8ohms capable amplifier, but still not as stressfull as a severe 8ohms reactive speaker.
If you need 4ohms capability for your speakers, then do the current assessment using a 2r0 load.
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