diyAB Amp - The "Honey Badger"

ostripper · 2021-05-08 7:56 am

SIP 3 ...

A DAC will do Hi/ AB warmup , then default to the passive setting.
Remote control variable AB and extended "first watt" Hi-AB.
Officially , the new amp will be open ended (for this).

The old 80 Genesis stealth amp had a (infrared) remote to toggle it's class A bias.
That's all it did , could not create "profiles".

With just a BJT , the DAC would do from default (40mA) to 1/2A per
device. SIP 3 is a winner.

OS

jwilhelm · 2021-05-08 11:26 am

TonyTecson said:
so instead of running after ppm distortions, how about designing for users who would love to see their amps destroyed instead? i would love to see them frustrated for a change....

It sounds like you want a pro-sound amp instead of hifi. Consumer grade and roadie proof are two separate animals. Usually people who take the time to build their own amp will use some common sense when operating it. If not they can have the fun of figuring out how to repair an exploded amp.

It's easy to add a protection system like our Amp Control system. With it connected you can abuse the amplifier as much as you want in normal operation, it will simply turn off if the amp is going to get hurt. I wouldn't recommend shorting the output leads in operation but normally it will save the amp in that situation as well. The speed of digital control and solid state relays is hard to beat with old analog / mechanical protections and doesn't degrade the sound like I/V limiting.

stuartmp · 2021-05-08 11:48 am

jwilhelm said:
Usually people who take the time to build their own amp will use some common sense when operating it. If not they can have the fun of figuring out how to repair an exploded amp.

I completely agree

thimios · 2021-05-08 1:14 pm

I can't enjoy any amplifier without protection.
Amplifier's repair is an easy job but speakers are very expensive animals!
A good protection like 21" century protection by Jeff & Valery is a very good option.
Do not trust relays in this position.

P.S i can accept amplifier's burning but not speakers destroy

Vostro · 2021-05-08 6:50 pm

Sorry to change the topic. But what sources are you guys using on your badgers.

Im feeling silly having to plug my phone and using the headphone out as a source in the entire time?

thompsontechs · 2021-05-08 6:58 pm

@ Vostro I use Waynes and an ifi iCan pro right now.... mostly Waynes, great combo.

JT

ostripper · 2021-05-08 8:08 pm

Prosound ...

Pro sound design also has some plus's.

My Behringer 150w amp plates use 250v ltp's and mirrors. They bias the OPS almost at class B.
They base both the Badger-like CCS's on two 1A diodes and a big resistor.
Not much can go wrong.
Pro sound simplicity is a factor I add to any design .... will it last 20 years ?
They did not have any protection on the speakers that went with the
Behringers. The one other buyer on ebay said 21 years , he was happy he found
the replacement and the speakers sang !! So the old amp did not burn the
speakers.
I bought 2 for 30$ , my 2 subs sing !!
PS - but I WILL add a protection to my big sub in the future. It cost over $200.

OS

TonyTecson · 2021-05-09 11:38 am

my first honeybadger build did include speaker protection, so that when it went up in smoke, the speakers were safe, only the board got damaged, and i suspected in just one channel like all amps i have serviced dis....

HrAberg · 2021-08-30 9:29 pm

Been reading the honey badger build guide. on power supply recomandation. I dident understand the last part.
he amplifier was tested with a power supply of +/-63V (from a 45-0-45transformer).
•
The transformer used was an AnTek AN-8445, 0-45V x2 @800VA.
•
The PSU board used were a pair of diyAudio P-PSU-1V20 boards, one for eachchannel.
•
Recommended capacitance is a total of 40,000uf per rail. If you are using thediyAudio PSU board, that would be 4 X 10,000uf caps per rail for a total of 8 caps.
•
If the recommended AnTek AN-8445 transformer is used, a minimum of 75Vworking voltage is recommended

where did the number 75 come from?

jjs · 2021-08-31 12:31 am

75V is the minimum voltage rating on the filter caps.

Jeremy

AudioSan · 2021-08-31 6:52 am

A more safe and cheaper way to do it, is to run 2x40V transformer(s) and use 63VDC caps. That makes it more robust to lower impedance.

Gsusay · 2021-09-16 6:27 pm

Hi guys. I,ve decided that mi next protect will be this one. Will you tell me what do i need to buy? obviously the two boards (stereo set) but then i got lost in psu's, soft starts and such matters. I want to make the order and i would like to buy all the recommendable boards in one order.
Its not my first project but you know i just follow the instructions. :yes:

90scaraudio · 2021-09-19 4:19 am

What I've put together for items needed

So I've decided to put a list together of cost... chassis are pricey

jwilhelm · 2021-09-19 11:01 am

One of the secrets to enjoying this hobby is to never add up the costs to build an amp.

90scaraudio · 2021-09-19 12:54 pm

Agree...But Gsusay wanted to know what to buy.

RickRay · 2021-09-20 5:32 pm

LOL, never tell me the odds or the price, LOL.

Gsusay · 2021-09-20 7:38 pm

90scaraudio said:
Agree...But Gsusay wanted to know what to buy.

and I thank you a lot the work. :cheers:

Gsusay · 2021-09-20 7:42 pm

jwilhelm said:
One of the secrets to enjoying this hobby is to never add up the costs to build an amp.

And that analyst lacks the biggest cost. Time, much more expensive that all this material stuff. At least for me.

BGAU · 2021-10-05 4:20 pm

Bias adjust and oscillation

anatech said:
Stick a 'scope on the output when you are adjusting the bias. It could be oscillating.

-Chris

Hello
Yes Anatech is right, this is the fact, something is oscillating and explains the jump of iddle current.
I had a problem like that on one of my 2 amps.
I solve the problem with a small capacitor across base and collector of Q 12.

Now I have another question.
Did you experiment thermal drift on your amp ?

One of the 2 amps I build seems to have some thermal problem.
Unfortunately the amp is not at home and I have no possibility for the moment to analyze the phenomena.
In both of my amps I have included a speaker delay protect with dc control on the output in order to avoid any bump and dc leakage through speakers.

Last time my brother who lives in the "hot" south of France saw the amp stopping to work, but all the control Led where lighted.
If the amp doesn't work with correct power supply that means that the speaker security is active.
It happened after 6 hours of continuous working and he said that the amp had become hot.
Heat is not a problem because I used large heatsink and I had included thermal protection. The thermal test devices are directly screwed on the 2 heatsink.
During summer when it was really hot the thermal security had operated once but in this case the amp stop completely and all led vanished.
This is not the case this time.

Any one had experimented thermal problem on the badger ?
The second amp I use everyday has no probleme of this kind and the DC at the output remain inexistent even after a full day of operation.
Ambient temperature in Paris area is lower than south of France !

If you have experimented such trouble please let me know.
I think the problem occurs in the input stage.
I take great care of the input stage and all transistors have been carfully paired. I bought 40 transistors off all type and paired them patiently.

Any idea will be welcome.

Thank you
Best regards

mbrennwa · 2021-10-31 7:38 am

Never had any heat issues with my Badgers for all these years. They are running cool. I don't see how hot weather could be an issue with an AB amp in domestic applications.

I''d check for bias drift in the output stage, which might also explain why the DC protection kicks in.

diyAB Amp - The "Honey Badger"

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