Sanken MT-200
Sanken 2sc3264 and 2sa1295 should do it. These MT-200 cases have quite a bit more heat conducting area than the others. OS mentions them many times in the HB thread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/soli...oney-badger-build-thread-162.html#post4331581
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/soli...oney-badger-build-thread-141.html#post4244313
I bought some from Newark and they even came with mt200 micas.
Sanken 2sc3264 and 2sa1295 should do it. These MT-200 cases have quite a bit more heat conducting area than the others. OS mentions them many times in the HB thread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/soli...oney-badger-build-thread-162.html#post4331581
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/soli...oney-badger-build-thread-141.html#post4244313
I bought some from Newark and they even came with mt200 micas.
Thanks. I had read the second of those posts, looks like a pretty tight squeeze. The TO-3P Semelab devices look a better suit in that respect, but I'd have to get those from Element14 as Mouser/Digikey don't stock them. The specs on them are certainly pretty impressive for such a small package!
I guess the conclusion is that I really ought to consider a more heavy duty output stage? I don't mind too much - gives greater flexibility down the track to use different speakers
The 5 to 6times comes from my modified version of Bensen's SOA spreadsheet which in turn is the computerised version of David Eather's paper on temperature de-rated SOA into reactive loading.
It's far too complicated to try to describe the process. Just read David Eather, there are numerous links in this Forum to his paper and to repeated recommendations to Bensen's spread sheet.
It's far too complicated to try to describe the process. Just read David Eather, there are numerous links in this Forum to his paper and to repeated recommendations to Bensen's spread sheet.
Hey all, new here
thinking about building this honey badger ab amp.
I've never built an amp before but I've gained a lot of experience trying to piece back together my carver m1.5t which went nuclear after a so called "Upgrade" (they failed to tell me that it wouldn't do well on a duel voltage unit until they offered to fix it for 500 dollars)
I digress sorry. What kind of sound performance might I expect? Is it close to the carver? Does the soft start you sell here act as a psu as well? And can it power both channels? And would the speaker protect need to be added as well? One last thing, would all of this fit in a preamp sized enclosure?
Really looking foward to anything you might be able to answer. Thanks
thinking about building this honey badger ab amp.
I've never built an amp before but I've gained a lot of experience trying to piece back together my carver m1.5t which went nuclear after a so called "Upgrade" (they failed to tell me that it wouldn't do well on a duel voltage unit until they offered to fix it for 500 dollars)
I digress sorry. What kind of sound performance might I expect? Is it close to the carver? Does the soft start you sell here act as a psu as well? And can it power both channels? And would the speaker protect need to be added as well? One last thing, would all of this fit in a preamp sized enclosure?
Really looking foward to anything you might be able to answer. Thanks
HB v2.4
Good question. Version 2.4 schematic is in the pictures on the webpage for the diyaudio store: The diyAB "Honey Badger" Class AB Power Amp - 150W/Channel – diyAudio Store. Not the link to schematic but the actual images of the board and schematic.
There are a few options/ changes since the build guide was written but for the most part it is acurate. Some changes include BAV21 diode for D10 (D-BC option on board) and R24= 1.5K.
Good question. Version 2.4 schematic is in the pictures on the webpage for the diyaudio store: The diyAB "Honey Badger" Class AB Power Amp - 150W/Channel – diyAudio Store. Not the link to schematic but the actual images of the board and schematic.
There are a few options/ changes since the build guide was written but for the most part it is acurate. Some changes include BAV21 diode for D10 (D-BC option on board) and R24= 1.5K.
The soft start and speaker protection boards are are just that. The power supply is separate and can be built with the board or homemade. The Honey Badger amp is 2 boards, 1 channel each. I don't know how it compares to your Carver. If I had to guess I would say it is similar but with maybe less maximum power. It all depends on what parts you build it with.
In my opinion, you should try to repair the Carver. Post a thread in main solid state forum with pictures of the damage and I have no doubt that someone here is familiar with the amp and can at least help evaluate the situation. If the Carver is truly toasted, you should still be able to use some of the parts. I am not an amp guru, just a builder with some basic electronics knowledge. There are some experts on this forum.
The Honey Badger probably will not fit in a preamp sized case. I would consider a 3U case to be about the minimum, mainly due to heatsink requirements- Dissipante 3U – diyAudio Store
In my opinion, you should try to repair the Carver. Post a thread in main solid state forum with pictures of the damage and I have no doubt that someone here is familiar with the amp and can at least help evaluate the situation. If the Carver is truly toasted, you should still be able to use some of the parts. I am not an amp guru, just a builder with some basic electronics knowledge. There are some experts on this forum.
The Honey Badger probably will not fit in a preamp sized case. I would consider a 3U case to be about the minimum, mainly due to heatsink requirements- Dissipante 3U – diyAudio Store
Hello all,
Im in the planning stages of my first solid state amplifier build, and I am looking to build a Honey Badger to drive a pair of Shahinian Obelisks. The Obelisks have a nominal impedance of 6R, but are often cited for dropping down to 2R.
I plan to use the Deluxe 4U chassis, HB boards and PSU from the DiyAudio store, so using the semelab MG-6330/MG-9410 are an easy fit over the MT200 outputs since I can use the pre-drilled holes and have necessary ruggedness for the load presented by the Obelisks.
What transformer secondary voltage would best keep the amp within the SOA of the Semelab transistors? It’s clear that I should be shooting for between 50v and 70v based upon the discussions that I have read, but it is not clear to me where within that range is optimal for a full range amplifier. I’m reading the some of the posts in regard to SOA now, and I’m fairly lost…
Additionally, in post #1618 discussing the use of the semelab outputs, ostripper mentions that there are “Other "tweaks" are needed to optimize the more aggressive OPS”, can anyone help point out what additional tweaks are needed when using the semelab transistors?
Thanks for any help!!
KC
Im in the planning stages of my first solid state amplifier build, and I am looking to build a Honey Badger to drive a pair of Shahinian Obelisks. The Obelisks have a nominal impedance of 6R, but are often cited for dropping down to 2R.
I plan to use the Deluxe 4U chassis, HB boards and PSU from the DiyAudio store, so using the semelab MG-6330/MG-9410 are an easy fit over the MT200 outputs since I can use the pre-drilled holes and have necessary ruggedness for the load presented by the Obelisks.
What transformer secondary voltage would best keep the amp within the SOA of the Semelab transistors? It’s clear that I should be shooting for between 50v and 70v based upon the discussions that I have read, but it is not clear to me where within that range is optimal for a full range amplifier. I’m reading the some of the posts in regard to SOA now, and I’m fairly lost…
Additionally, in post #1618 discussing the use of the semelab outputs, ostripper mentions that there are “Other "tweaks" are needed to optimize the more aggressive OPS”, can anyone help point out what additional tweaks are needed when using the semelab transistors?
Thanks for any help!!
KC
Hey dirttracker, thanks for the info.
I've pretty much got the carver nailed down (very very very complicated machine) big learning curve for me.
I don't care about the 1000wpc that they advertised on it, I mean dame how loud can you get it. My thing is the very clean sound it makes, never heard anything like it. Now that I've got the bug for working on these electronic gizmos, I thought I'd try to build one myself. I want an A/B amp just for the fact that they are more efficient and therefore run cooler. I built my room special for my system that I had for over 30 years. The builtin for the stereo I custom sized and hand built by me, for that system but like I said building an amp myself that sounds clean and looks good would be pretty cool. Plus if it works out I'll do a preamp next.
so if you could recommend a good amp with say 70 to 100 amps and fit in a 2U sized case it would be great. Now I can actually go up to 18 inches deeper with the box just no higher or wider. I can even mount the power supply separate if needed.
I appreciate any help you can give, thanks
I've pretty much got the carver nailed down (very very very complicated machine) big learning curve for me.
I don't care about the 1000wpc that they advertised on it, I mean dame how loud can you get it. My thing is the very clean sound it makes, never heard anything like it. Now that I've got the bug for working on these electronic gizmos, I thought I'd try to build one myself. I want an A/B amp just for the fact that they are more efficient and therefore run cooler. I built my room special for my system that I had for over 30 years. The builtin for the stereo I custom sized and hand built by me, for that system but like I said building an amp myself that sounds clean and looks good would be pretty cool. Plus if it works out I'll do a preamp next.
so if you could recommend a good amp with say 70 to 100 amps and fit in a 2U sized case it would be great. Now I can actually go up to 18 inches deeper with the box just no higher or wider. I can even mount the power supply separate if needed.
I appreciate any help you can give, thanks
At 60 V DC rails I highly doubt ANY load would present a problem for the
semilabs.
The semilab devices have pretty high beta , I doubt that you would need
to run the VAS any "hotter" than the standard 7ma design spec , even with
a 4R load. (true Overkill with the semilab's).
PS- If you used the Toshiba 4793/1837 as drivers the badger could run with 5ma VAS
Idle current (R27 = 120R). Standard Mje xxxxx are way lower gain/Ft.
OS
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With a high load , an EF2 (badger) has it's limit's.
A standard MJL (output) / MJE (driver) will be alright for 8R and acceptable operation. Total Current gain is @2-3K , at best.
The Sanken's and Semilab's have a much better Hfe at Higher Vce and I.
Considering this .... a driver with higher current gain can be used.
The lower Ic of a driver pair like the Toshiba's (4793/1837) can also be overlooked.
The HK680 , even as it is an EF3 most likely has 5K+ gain in it's final driver/output pair.
They use the 4793/1837's + two pairs of 2SA1386/2SC3519 --
The toshiba drivers are "Ice cold" even with cheap 4R disco speakers blasting
at a party all night.
3 pair (like the badger) would likely have no additional effect (loading the
toshiba's) , by my experience with the 680.
But , you would most like have 5-10K current gain. The 680 runs it's pre-driver at a paltry 1ma .... never an issue. The badger's 7ma VAS would
likely never be penalized by more than <.5ma EF2 "droop" , even with a
obscene load.
Conversely , the drivers (toshiba's) would never be required to dissipate
more than 100ma to power 3 pair of either the sankens or semilabs.
An EF3 eliminates all this (why I moved on). Ef2 is "simple/reliable" , less
prone to oscillations and being picky with device Ft.
OS
A standard MJL (output) / MJE (driver) will be alright for 8R and acceptable operation. Total Current gain is @2-3K , at best.
The Sanken's and Semilab's have a much better Hfe at Higher Vce and I.
Considering this .... a driver with higher current gain can be used.
The lower Ic of a driver pair like the Toshiba's (4793/1837) can also be overlooked.
The HK680 , even as it is an EF3 most likely has 5K+ gain in it's final driver/output pair.
They use the 4793/1837's + two pairs of 2SA1386/2SC3519 --
The toshiba drivers are "Ice cold" even with cheap 4R disco speakers blasting
at a party all night.
3 pair (like the badger) would likely have no additional effect (loading the
toshiba's) , by my experience with the 680.
But , you would most like have 5-10K current gain. The 680 runs it's pre-driver at a paltry 1ma .... never an issue. The badger's 7ma VAS would
likely never be penalized by more than <.5ma EF2 "droop" , even with a
obscene load.
Conversely , the drivers (toshiba's) would never be required to dissipate
more than 100ma to power 3 pair of either the sankens or semilabs.
An EF3 eliminates all this (why I moved on). Ef2 is "simple/reliable" , less
prone to oscillations and being picky with device Ft.
OS
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Huge thanks OS!
I spent a few hours this afternoon enjoying some stiff adult beverages while reading the Slewmaster thread and I'm glad to hear that all is OK! Had to skip a few pages to get to your most recent update with the news. Got a bit tense to say the least.
I dug around in my basement this morning and found a handful of toshiba 4793/1837 that I bought a while back for an amp repair, but of course now I'm looking much more closely at the Slewmaster.
KC
I spent a few hours this afternoon enjoying some stiff adult beverages while reading the Slewmaster thread and I'm glad to hear that all is OK! Had to skip a few pages to get to your most recent update with the news. Got a bit tense to say the least.
I dug around in my basement this morning and found a handful of toshiba 4793/1837 that I bought a while back for an amp repair, but of course now I'm looking much more closely at the Slewmaster.
KC
Don't discount the Badger. An audiophile board has actually reviewed it as
in the league with 3K$ esoteric equipment.
While tested , the Slew's have too many choice's , and are much more involved
to construct (more expensive).
20 different input stages - to much confusion.
The Badgers rock solid opposed current sources lock thermally , the standard
input stages + cascode give quite the nfb. 10-15ppm at 20khz is not bad
at all !
OS
in the league with 3K$ esoteric equipment.
While tested , the Slew's have too many choice's , and are much more involved
to construct (more expensive).
20 different input stages - to much confusion.
The Badgers rock solid opposed current sources lock thermally , the standard
input stages + cascode give quite the nfb. 10-15ppm at 20khz is not bad
at all !
OS
I switched to mica....
I have one marginally defective output on a 10 device output stage.
It's (hotspot) burnt right through mouser's best expensive Kapton
material.
I examined the burn through...
My conclusions-
1.The kapton does thin with high torque , and/or any slight deformity
or particle on the mating surface (extrusion).
2.Being a plastic (instead of a mineral) - a "hotspot" will easily burn
right through it.
Now , I have seen Kapton last 20 years on a hot class A superamp
with glass smooth heatsinks.
But , after my experience .... is just a couple hundreth's of a C/W
worth the risk on our sometimes "imperfect" DIY endeavors.
Mica is proven and cheap.
OS
I have one marginally defective output on a 10 device output stage.
It's (hotspot) burnt right through mouser's best expensive Kapton
material.
I examined the burn through...
My conclusions-
1.The kapton does thin with high torque , and/or any slight deformity
or particle on the mating surface (extrusion).
2.Being a plastic (instead of a mineral) - a "hotspot" will easily burn
right through it.
Now , I have seen Kapton last 20 years on a hot class A superamp
with glass smooth heatsinks.
But , after my experience .... is just a couple hundreth's of a C/W
worth the risk on our sometimes "imperfect" DIY endeavors.
Mica is proven and cheap.
OS