Techhead,
oh man, there are hundreds of inventions concerning projectors! You can see a lot of details. If you wanna take a look on them here's the quick search.
Note: to browse the images you should have installed a browser plug-in called alternatiff v.1.4! It's free!
For this forum, inventions 1986-1990 seems most interesting. serarch term should be 'projector'.
http://alternatiff.com
http://patft.uspto.gov/netahtml/search-bool.html
Have fun!
xblocker
oh man, there are hundreds of inventions concerning projectors! You can see a lot of details. If you wanna take a look on them here's the quick search.
Note: to browse the images you should have installed a browser plug-in called alternatiff v.1.4! It's free!
For this forum, inventions 1986-1990 seems most interesting. serarch term should be 'projector'.
http://alternatiff.com
http://patft.uspto.gov/netahtml/search-bool.html
Have fun!
xblocker
projector
Well
I got my proxima dp2400 yesterday
It doesn't have video in :-(
so I bought a startech game console to vga converter from www.computers4sure.com for $57us with shipping.
That brings my total for the home theater to about $300us so far. Now I need a better screen. When I get some pics I will try to post them.
I know it's not DIY but I am still excited.
Well
I got my proxima dp2400 yesterday
It doesn't have video in :-(
so I bought a startech game console to vga converter from www.computers4sure.com for $57us with shipping.
That brings my total for the home theater to about $300us so far. Now I need a better screen. When I get some pics I will try to post them.
I know it's not DIY but I am still excited.
Ribbon Cable Solution
I've been watching and posting a bit on the other forum and I think I might have a possible workaround for those fragile ribbon connectors.
It seems to me that once you get to the point where the ribbon is visible and you have the tv/panel laid out flat you could reinforce the strength of that cable at each end of the junction.
How? Call me crazy, but I'd build a good layer of 100% silicone caulk from the circuit board out a quarter to half inch down the ribbon connector. This should act as a nonconductive strain relief and take some of the pressure off those microscopic solder connections. I would do this on both ends (circuit side and lcd side) being careful not to contaminate the face of the LCD.
Matter of fact, for the shorter ribbon cables like you guys in the small lcd forum are using, I might put a thin layer of silicone all the way up and down that ribbon, stiffening it (prevent tearing-although that hasn't been as big a problem as at the solder connections.
You'd need to let it fully cure overnight before messing with it.
What do you guys think? Am I onto something (OR JUST ON SOMETHING LOL)?
Enjoy.
I've been watching and posting a bit on the other forum and I think I might have a possible workaround for those fragile ribbon connectors.
It seems to me that once you get to the point where the ribbon is visible and you have the tv/panel laid out flat you could reinforce the strength of that cable at each end of the junction.
How? Call me crazy, but I'd build a good layer of 100% silicone caulk from the circuit board out a quarter to half inch down the ribbon connector. This should act as a nonconductive strain relief and take some of the pressure off those microscopic solder connections. I would do this on both ends (circuit side and lcd side) being careful not to contaminate the face of the LCD.
Matter of fact, for the shorter ribbon cables like you guys in the small lcd forum are using, I might put a thin layer of silicone all the way up and down that ribbon, stiffening it (prevent tearing-although that hasn't been as big a problem as at the solder connections.
You'd need to let it fully cure overnight before messing with it.
What do you guys think? Am I onto something (OR JUST ON SOMETHING LOL)?
Enjoy.
I did it.
I ordered a 400W Metal Halide Bulb, and 400W Advance Ballast.
The bulb is:
Philips MS400/U/ED28 - initial 40k lumens, mean 28k lumens, 4k temp, 20k life. Plus, its not one of those giant ED37 size bulbs, its the smaller one.
and the ballast is the Advance 400W Multi-tap.
I called this really awesome guy at www.affordablelighting.com - his number is (800) 683-8825. He got me really good prices on them. Ballast: 49.95 (this is $65 alone at elights), and the bulb, $26.95. Add them together, and then toss on $15 shipping, and I end up with a NEW 400W metal halide setup for $91.90. Now, I need to find a mogul base (socket). Anyone know where I can get them?
I ordered a 400W Metal Halide Bulb, and 400W Advance Ballast.
The bulb is:
Philips MS400/U/ED28 - initial 40k lumens, mean 28k lumens, 4k temp, 20k life. Plus, its not one of those giant ED37 size bulbs, its the smaller one.
and the ballast is the Advance 400W Multi-tap.
I called this really awesome guy at www.affordablelighting.com - his number is (800) 683-8825. He got me really good prices on them. Ballast: 49.95 (this is $65 alone at elights), and the bulb, $26.95. Add them together, and then toss on $15 shipping, and I end up with a NEW 400W metal halide setup for $91.90. Now, I need to find a mogul base (socket). Anyone know where I can get them?
Most local lighting supply stores should have a Mogul socket in stock that would work with your bulb (I am assuming that bulb is a Mogul base...probably is). Congrats on a good find!
xblocker,
Thanks for the www.alternatiff.com link! I thought I was just slow when I couldn't get pics to show up. That database is a great resource.
-f4
xblocker,
Thanks for the www.alternatiff.com link! I thought I was just slow when I couldn't get pics to show up. That database is a great resource.
-f4
For the metal halide uninitiated, there is some good info at http://www.personal.psu.edu/faculty/s/b/sbj4/aquarium/mh/mhlighting.html it is geared toward reef aquariums, but good nonetheless.
I also remember reading somewhere that the color temp of universal bulbs increases somewhat when burned horizontally, though the lumen output and bulb life are a little less.
Pod
I also remember reading somewhere that the color temp of universal bulbs increases somewhat when burned horizontally, though the lumen output and bulb life are a little less.
Pod
I am pretty sure this has been posted here before, but I think it is important enough to say again. Fresnel Technologies seems to be the best source for Fresnel lenses, costing about half as much as the ones from Edmund Optics and JML Optical.
For those of you going the large panel/OHP route, take a look at their 405mm and 457mm fresnel lenses. Unlike similar lenses from Edmund/JML, the lenses from Fresnel Technologies are aspheric so there will be no spherical aberration. Both have an 18" focal length and go for $120. Either one should be large enough to fill a 15" LCD, but I think I will get the bigger one just in case.
http://www.fresneltech.com/pdf/FresnelLenses.pdf
CR
For those of you going the large panel/OHP route, take a look at their 405mm and 457mm fresnel lenses. Unlike similar lenses from Edmund/JML, the lenses from Fresnel Technologies are aspheric so there will be no spherical aberration. Both have an 18" focal length and go for $120. Either one should be large enough to fill a 15" LCD, but I think I will get the bigger one just in case.
http://www.fresneltech.com/pdf/FresnelLenses.pdf
CR
Lamps
Is there any reason you guys aren't using the 1000 or 1500 watt metal halide bulbs?
I found this place http://www.hidirect.com/end_user/endsmhlamps.htm The bulb and ballast prices seem to be pretty good.
let me know what you think.
if you know of anywhere to get any better prices please let me know
also what kind of results are you getting with your 400 watt bulbs? does it have to be a completely dark room or what?
Is there any reason you guys aren't using the 1000 or 1500 watt metal halide bulbs?
I found this place http://www.hidirect.com/end_user/endsmhlamps.htm The bulb and ballast prices seem to be pretty good.
let me know what you think.
if you know of anywhere to get any better prices please let me know
also what kind of results are you getting with your 400 watt bulbs? does it have to be a completely dark room or what?
Report on OHP + Spectra C panel
Well, I don't feel like I accomplished much, but I finally got an acceptable picture on the wall! I received my OHP (Beseler G-100...old school, from ebay) today, and threw my nView Spectra C on it. I am projecting onto a beige wall (think color of most computers), and have an 85" diagonal at a 12 foot distance. Despite the bad wall color, the picture is WAYYY better than I expected. 10X better than anything I achieved with the MV light (bad) or the LOA.
I plan on removing the components of the OHP and building a case for it soon. The LCD from the OHP panel and its circuits are easily removable, so that should make for a tidy package. I think by moving the bulb fixture closer to the fresnels I can reduce the amount of light lost on each side of the LCD.
The bulb is a DYS 600watt, and I was correct in my assumption...it does not have a ballast and it runs from 120volt AC. Pretty convenient, but man, this thing puts out some serious heat. Enough to make my room heat up after 15 minutes of use. It only has a small reflector "dish" under it... pretty simple. I will post some pics of it when my camera charges up.
It is plenty bright for my tastes. With one window covered by a thin white curtain, the picture is still very watchable. The colors are seem to be passable, but I need some better DVD's to try it out (I only have a few concert DVD's right now).
The fan is loud. Too loud. I might replace it with a nice computer fan when I build the case. I would love to go without fans altogether, but that will not be possible with this furnace. Hopefully we can come to a MH solution so I can ditch the "brute force" halogen. I might place a rheostat dimmer on the bulb to control brightness (and heat) if I can get by with less.
Oh well, that's it. No DIY, but maybe it will help give someone perspective.
-f4
BTW, if anyone gets an old OHP like mine, make sure that you take all of the optics apart and clean them (carefully!). I bet I got 300 more lumens after cleaning it...the rag was covered in black stuff!
Well, I don't feel like I accomplished much, but I finally got an acceptable picture on the wall! I received my OHP (Beseler G-100...old school, from ebay) today, and threw my nView Spectra C on it. I am projecting onto a beige wall (think color of most computers), and have an 85" diagonal at a 12 foot distance. Despite the bad wall color, the picture is WAYYY better than I expected. 10X better than anything I achieved with the MV light (bad) or the LOA.
I plan on removing the components of the OHP and building a case for it soon. The LCD from the OHP panel and its circuits are easily removable, so that should make for a tidy package. I think by moving the bulb fixture closer to the fresnels I can reduce the amount of light lost on each side of the LCD.
The bulb is a DYS 600watt, and I was correct in my assumption...it does not have a ballast and it runs from 120volt AC. Pretty convenient, but man, this thing puts out some serious heat. Enough to make my room heat up after 15 minutes of use. It only has a small reflector "dish" under it... pretty simple. I will post some pics of it when my camera charges up.
It is plenty bright for my tastes. With one window covered by a thin white curtain, the picture is still very watchable. The colors are seem to be passable, but I need some better DVD's to try it out (I only have a few concert DVD's right now).
The fan is loud. Too loud. I might replace it with a nice computer fan when I build the case. I would love to go without fans altogether, but that will not be possible with this furnace. Hopefully we can come to a MH solution so I can ditch the "brute force" halogen. I might place a rheostat dimmer on the bulb to control brightness (and heat) if I can get by with less.
Oh well, that's it. No DIY, but maybe it will help give someone perspective.
-f4
BTW, if anyone gets an old OHP like mine, make sure that you take all of the optics apart and clean them (carefully!). I bet I got 300 more lumens after cleaning it...the rag was covered in black stuff!
I started out with a Spectra C and an ohp with a 600 watt DYS bulb, but holy Moses that thing put out heat. It had enough light, tho. I just got my 400w MH bulb (roughly) installled in the ohp box, just to see how it looked and it was much whiter and brighter than the DYS. Temperature wise, it was like comparing Saudi Arabia in July to Ohio in May, MUCH cooler. I kept the original fan, and that seems to be more than adequate. Eventually, I will make a custom box, but for now, I can live with the ghetto style.
Pod
Pod
Just a bit of my research. I dont know if this was talked in here.
i was looking on what components the old and top line LCD projectors are using.
Here is the list:
1. A UHE lamp with shor arc (yeah, we already knew that.
2. Polarization converter (it was brough into this discussion a few posts ago)
3. high aperture LCD panels (well, unless we can grab one of those top panels, there isnt much choice for us)
4. Micro-lens array (or know as fly-eye lens or light integrator). Here is the new secret.
the MLA will distribute the light more even and therefore it will be a lot more bright. With a polarizer right after the MLA, the ray will be parallel before reach the LCD.
Although it wasnt mentioned anywhere, it seens obviously that the reflector must be parabolic as the ray will be paralel.
Question is: where to buy this micro-lens array and how much would that be?
i was looking on what components the old and top line LCD projectors are using.
Here is the list:
1. A UHE lamp with shor arc (yeah, we already knew that.
2. Polarization converter (it was brough into this discussion a few posts ago)
3. high aperture LCD panels (well, unless we can grab one of those top panels, there isnt much choice for us)
4. Micro-lens array (or know as fly-eye lens or light integrator). Here is the new secret.
the MLA will distribute the light more even and therefore it will be a lot more bright. With a polarizer right after the MLA, the ray will be parallel before reach the LCD.
Although it wasnt mentioned anywhere, it seens obviously that the reflector must be parabolic as the ray will be paralel.
Question is: where to buy this micro-lens array and how much would that be?
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