wow.
Anyone ever seen that York Peppermint commercial where the old man says "...I'm just glad I get a sensation"? Thats the way I feel, I'm just glad I got a rise out of some people here. Just call me penis-head from now on. heh.
XGA/HD quality of course is what I desire at a minimun, but I have some LCD's that I can do some testing with before having to spend cash on a LCD like that.
Budget is always in mind as it is with any DIY'er, but not so as much as to have a POS project at the end result. My current budget limits my testing at the moment and that is why I have read so much on the subjects at hand. It just appears to me that all parts are available to make such a projector as you could find for commercial use...and that includes light source. Has anyone disected an up-to-date projector and tried to come up with comperable parts yet to build a replica or something built on that design to achieve that quality?
I noticed something the other night when i took this laptop's LCD apart. The laptop was some crazy brand but the LCD was a GOLDSTAR. After I disected it and had all the seperate components, I started the laptop up and held the "wand bulb" behind it so i could see the picture. It was very dim without the reflective materials behind it as you can imagine. I was then, just in messing around, put the light in front of the LCD and looked from behind it. The picture was extremely bright where there was a picture or white text with the light directly behind it! On the back side of the LCD it was smoothe with no anti glare filter. On the viewing side it had some kind of antiglare thing going on. Has anyone tried to "flip" the LCD around backwards and use it that way? I would be interested to see the outcome in comparison with a working diy projector. ANyone have the capability to do this? Please let us know what you found.
It appears that for ~$3500 these days you can get a very good commercial projector. I wonder if you spent that money on a DIY project.... what would it be like... better?...worse?... or just a hunk of junk in comparison....
Anyone ever seen that York Peppermint commercial where the old man says "...I'm just glad I get a sensation"? Thats the way I feel, I'm just glad I got a rise out of some people here. Just call me penis-head from now on. heh.
XGA/HD quality of course is what I desire at a minimun, but I have some LCD's that I can do some testing with before having to spend cash on a LCD like that.
Budget is always in mind as it is with any DIY'er, but not so as much as to have a POS project at the end result. My current budget limits my testing at the moment and that is why I have read so much on the subjects at hand. It just appears to me that all parts are available to make such a projector as you could find for commercial use...and that includes light source. Has anyone disected an up-to-date projector and tried to come up with comperable parts yet to build a replica or something built on that design to achieve that quality?
I noticed something the other night when i took this laptop's LCD apart. The laptop was some crazy brand but the LCD was a GOLDSTAR. After I disected it and had all the seperate components, I started the laptop up and held the "wand bulb" behind it so i could see the picture. It was very dim without the reflective materials behind it as you can imagine. I was then, just in messing around, put the light in front of the LCD and looked from behind it. The picture was extremely bright where there was a picture or white text with the light directly behind it! On the back side of the LCD it was smoothe with no anti glare filter. On the viewing side it had some kind of antiglare thing going on. Has anyone tried to "flip" the LCD around backwards and use it that way? I would be interested to see the outcome in comparison with a working diy projector. ANyone have the capability to do this? Please let us know what you found.
It appears that for ~$3500 these days you can get a very good commercial projector. I wonder if you spent that money on a DIY project.... what would it be like... better?...worse?... or just a hunk of junk in comparison....
Info about the Elmo HP-a305 DX?
Just ordered some gear from Inventory Solutions. I talked to Bob (choice 1 on the system). He has talked to at least of a few of us now, so he knows what we want. Decided to get he the elmo a305 system ( $150).
I know that at least jjasniew has this projector. How is the noise on this system? Does the ballast seem reuasable ( uses a standard mount, voltage) so we can use a cheaply currently available MH bulb ( maybe lower wattage) that cost ~$40??? The exact replacement looks like ~380. Ouch.
As far as the LCD panal, I don't think anyone should buy it for use in there final system. Bob said it is around 5 yrs old and its qualitly is not so good ( for HT). Very noticeable motion ghosting. I decided to get it as a interm solution before I pluke down 300 for a 14 or 15 incher
$226 total ($26 shipping from GA to CA)
addtional s video/ video input available on the LCD's for additional 25$ 800 X 600 avail for 100$
So anyways, I kinda want some input on the noise of the Elmo 305 DX as well as its usuability for parts..
-Mike
Just ordered some gear from Inventory Solutions. I talked to Bob (choice 1 on the system). He has talked to at least of a few of us now, so he knows what we want. Decided to get he the elmo a305 system ( $150).
I know that at least jjasniew has this projector. How is the noise on this system? Does the ballast seem reuasable ( uses a standard mount, voltage) so we can use a cheaply currently available MH bulb ( maybe lower wattage) that cost ~$40??? The exact replacement looks like ~380. Ouch.
As far as the LCD panal, I don't think anyone should buy it for use in there final system. Bob said it is around 5 yrs old and its qualitly is not so good ( for HT). Very noticeable motion ghosting. I decided to get it as a interm solution before I pluke down 300 for a 14 or 15 incher
$226 total ($26 shipping from GA to CA)
addtional s video/ video input available on the LCD's for additional 25$ 800 X 600 avail for 100$
So anyways, I kinda want some input on the noise of the Elmo 305 DX as well as its usuability for parts..
-Mike
New to this DIY
Hi,
I'm from Malaysia and I am very interested in creating my own projector. However, I have no leads whatsoever at this moment.
I was given an old 486 notebook.The motherboard of hte notebook is cooked. The notebook was pretty old and I just open up the note book yesterday. I wasn't sure what type of LCD it is cause there ain't go no marking on it.How sould I proceed now? The Notebook has a two row of 10 pin connector connecting to the LCD Controller board which has a lot of Goldstar chips, There is a luminating sheet which used to be the notebook's backlit.
Is there a way for me to put the 20 pin connectors to a 15-D connector (vga)?
Has anyone here actually use a notebook's LCD to create a projector?
the screen is 8.something inch. The notebook used to be running 640X480.
What type of light source can I use? I have a friend working in Phillips which told me that he can get for me some Phillip Lifesaver Cool light which can be the lightsource for my projector. I tis a 8000 lumens lightsource, I don't know the wattage but I was told that it is really bright and its classed as energy saving light.
I also have no idea how the lens work and basically, after snipping through this forum, I manage to learn that a fresnel screen will distribute the light evenly. I am wondering where can I get a fresnel screen in Malaysia?
I hope all the good people in this forum will help me ito achieve this DIY pet project of mine.
I have devided to put a pictorial chronolog of my project on a homepage.
Thanks
Hi,
I'm from Malaysia and I am very interested in creating my own projector. However, I have no leads whatsoever at this moment.
I was given an old 486 notebook.The motherboard of hte notebook is cooked. The notebook was pretty old and I just open up the note book yesterday. I wasn't sure what type of LCD it is cause there ain't go no marking on it.How sould I proceed now? The Notebook has a two row of 10 pin connector connecting to the LCD Controller board which has a lot of Goldstar chips, There is a luminating sheet which used to be the notebook's backlit.
Is there a way for me to put the 20 pin connectors to a 15-D connector (vga)?
Has anyone here actually use a notebook's LCD to create a projector?
the screen is 8.something inch. The notebook used to be running 640X480.
What type of light source can I use? I have a friend working in Phillips which told me that he can get for me some Phillip Lifesaver Cool light which can be the lightsource for my projector. I tis a 8000 lumens lightsource, I don't know the wattage but I was told that it is really bright and its classed as energy saving light.
I also have no idea how the lens work and basically, after snipping through this forum, I manage to learn that a fresnel screen will distribute the light evenly. I am wondering where can I get a fresnel screen in Malaysia?
I hope all the good people in this forum will help me ito achieve this DIY pet project of mine.
I have devided to put a pictorial chronolog of my project on a homepage.
Thanks
Noise on Elmo HP-A305
Mike,
I think it's noisy, compared to the Dukane I had. But almost double the lumens!
The thing has two fans, so you can imagine. I was thinking of putting it on the other side of the wall, have the beam bounce back off a FS mirror, through a hole and onto a rear projection surface...
Hung upside down from the cieling, maybe not so bad. But I've had it right in front of my face (or so) and the noise is annoying.
I imagine just behind you, projecting over the top of a sofa, probably annoying also.
I'm thinking of ways to put a different fan into it; get the same flow at less RPM. I have all the equipment to measure this at my work...
I've seen the bulb on the net for $149.99. Well, at least it's half!
Bulb experiments may be in order here (like bust open a mercury vapor arc lamp and extract the element)
There's quite a bit of circuitry inside - comparable to a, well, 500W power amplifier! The HV coil looks like a giant monitor flyback transformer. I dont know what market they were going after, but t's really some amazing design effort.
I'm less impressed with the lens setup on this unit, compared to the Dukane.
Oh, and the thing is REALLY bright inside. Light leaks out through various vents and actually illuminates the room and screen some.
You'll see
For the DIYer that doesnt like the OHP form factor, one of these could probably be disasembled and the electronics used to light the bulb in some other enclosure. Be careful with the high voltage and cooling method if anyone attempts this sort of thing!
Mike,
I think it's noisy, compared to the Dukane I had. But almost double the lumens!
The thing has two fans, so you can imagine. I was thinking of putting it on the other side of the wall, have the beam bounce back off a FS mirror, through a hole and onto a rear projection surface...
Hung upside down from the cieling, maybe not so bad. But I've had it right in front of my face (or so) and the noise is annoying.
I imagine just behind you, projecting over the top of a sofa, probably annoying also.
I'm thinking of ways to put a different fan into it; get the same flow at less RPM. I have all the equipment to measure this at my work...
I've seen the bulb on the net for $149.99. Well, at least it's half!
Bulb experiments may be in order here (like bust open a mercury vapor arc lamp and extract the element)
There's quite a bit of circuitry inside - comparable to a, well, 500W power amplifier! The HV coil looks like a giant monitor flyback transformer. I dont know what market they were going after, but t's really some amazing design effort.
I'm less impressed with the lens setup on this unit, compared to the Dukane.
Oh, and the thing is REALLY bright inside. Light leaks out through various vents and actually illuminates the room and screen some.
You'll see
For the DIYer that doesnt like the OHP form factor, one of these could probably be disasembled and the electronics used to light the bulb in some other enclosure. Be careful with the high voltage and cooling method if anyone attempts this sort of thing!
Does anyone know if the OHP panels suffer the polarizing light effect to a lesser degree than other panels (since they are designed to work with converging light from a fresnel)?
camelion,
Welcome to the board. Unfortunately, I haven't heard of anyone that has been successful with salvaging a laptop LCD and making it suitable for this project. Different companies, or even different models from the same company, seem to use different standards for delivering a signal to the LCD. You would also need a good bit of circuitry to get it going, even if you could get the correct inputs. AND THEN, you might find the quality of the video to be poor since it is from a 486 (probably not designed with video in mind). Sorry for the bad news.
The good news is you can get a 640x480 panel for a good price that is designed for projection with an overhead projector from the Inventory Solutions website. jjasniew's post (I think 8 posts back) would be an excellent place to start if you wanted to take that route. It would surely give you higher quality for less money that the 486 LCD would.
contrapasta,
Did you find out any additional info on the 800x600 panel? Is it better suited for video? I won't be able to call Bob until next week, so I am just curious if you have heard anything.
Thanks, and good luck to all.
f4
camelion,
Welcome to the board. Unfortunately, I haven't heard of anyone that has been successful with salvaging a laptop LCD and making it suitable for this project. Different companies, or even different models from the same company, seem to use different standards for delivering a signal to the LCD. You would also need a good bit of circuitry to get it going, even if you could get the correct inputs. AND THEN, you might find the quality of the video to be poor since it is from a 486 (probably not designed with video in mind). Sorry for the bad news.
The good news is you can get a 640x480 panel for a good price that is designed for projection with an overhead projector from the Inventory Solutions website. jjasniew's post (I think 8 posts back) would be an excellent place to start if you wanted to take that route. It would surely give you higher quality for less money that the 486 LCD would.
contrapasta,
Did you find out any additional info on the 800x600 panel? Is it better suited for video? I won't be able to call Bob until next week, so I am just curious if you have heard anything.
Thanks, and good luck to all.
f4
CRT route
Scot_lad
I am not an electronics-expert but the basic electronics for driving a CRT is present in a standard TV. The signals for eatch color is handled separatly all the way up to the tub. So why not just divert eatch cabel for color to a separat tube?
The only problem is to match the tubes with the electronics . . . :-s
You can find lots of diffrent CRT:s at:
http://www.surplussales.com/Tubes-Sock-Acc/CRTtubes.html
I do not know if those CRT:s are the right kind . . . . . ?
By for now
Scot_lad
I am not an electronics-expert but the basic electronics for driving a CRT is present in a standard TV. The signals for eatch color is handled separatly all the way up to the tub. So why not just divert eatch cabel for color to a separat tube?
The only problem is to match the tubes with the electronics . . . :-s
You can find lots of diffrent CRT:s at:
http://www.surplussales.com/Tubes-Sock-Acc/CRTtubes.html
I do not know if those CRT:s are the right kind . . . . . ?
By for now
CRT
If you run the CRTs off standard tv electronics, you are hindered by the horiz scan rate. You could not use a scaler or line doubler. It would just be standard tv resolution. Unless it can be modified somehow, it seems the better soulution would be to buy a cheap crt projector, like the barco data p/c, which is hidered by its single scan rate as well, and can be found for less than 300. If you found good tubes and ran them off a compter crt, that would be the ticket, provided the theory applies eqaully and works at all.
If you run the CRTs off standard tv electronics, you are hindered by the horiz scan rate. You could not use a scaler or line doubler. It would just be standard tv resolution. Unless it can be modified somehow, it seems the better soulution would be to buy a cheap crt projector, like the barco data p/c, which is hidered by its single scan rate as well, and can be found for less than 300. If you found good tubes and ran them off a compter crt, that would be the ticket, provided the theory applies eqaully and works at all.
My LCD Screen
hi guys,
I've just found out that my lcd screen is Sanyo LCM5483 24NTK. At least that is what it said on the small prints on the circuit board.
It has a long ribbon going into a changer which connects to a 20 Pin Molex Connector that goes back to the Driver card on the Notebook
I will post some picture when I got home.
cheers,
hi guys,
I've just found out that my lcd screen is Sanyo LCM5483 24NTK. At least that is what it said on the small prints on the circuit board.
It has a long ribbon going into a changer which connects to a 20 Pin Molex Connector that goes back to the Driver card on the Notebook
I will post some picture when I got home.
cheers,
38 photographs detailing the disassembly of my recently recieved lcd. i'm going to strive to post before i'm kicked out of dorms for spring break, and i'm going to try my best to make sure they dont routinely unplug my server in my absence.
i swear to god though, if i hear one person bitching about lack of instructions or lack of photos, i will hunt them down and make them pay.
the crappy digitals i loan from people seem totally unable to take anything resembling a decent picture. i refuse to post the **** i'm getting now. anyone have suggestions for how to get these light mongering bastards working in decent order in a relatively low light environment? if not, i'm going to have to use my 35 mm, which means it'll be a month before they get posted.
myren
i swear to god though, if i hear one person bitching about lack of instructions or lack of photos, i will hunt them down and make them pay.
the crappy digitals i loan from people seem totally unable to take anything resembling a decent picture. i refuse to post the **** i'm getting now. anyone have suggestions for how to get these light mongering bastards working in decent order in a relatively low light environment? if not, i'm going to have to use my 35 mm, which means it'll be a month before they get posted.
myren
Aight, exam is over
Well, as you know, I am using the ohp-route. All I used from a really old an crappy ohp was the housing and the optics. On monday or so I watched tv on a diagonal of over 3,5 meters with an inverted picture. The picture was much too big to watch comfortably, with the loudspeakers standing in the way and so on. From ebay I bought an f=400mm projection-lens (actually it's several lenses combined in a metal tube, what is that called in english? objective?) With this lens, the picture size is perfekt with the ohp hanging from the ceiling at the opposite side of the room (2,6m diagonal picture size). Most of you probably know that for any given distance of an ohp to the projection surface or for any given lens-setup the distance of the lamp to the fresnel has to be adjusted. Without doing that you can only focus the very center of the projected image, everything around it is very blurred. I had adjusted my lamp for the f=317mm lens, so with the new f=400 lens I have to readjust the lamp-fresnel distance. This is what I will be doing today. This is pretty shitty, since I desinged the projector in a way that doesn't foresee repeated reopening. Doing so is very bad for the flexible ribbon cable connecting the PCB to the display, which has to be disconnected for opening. It only allows for 30 cycles. 2 and counting. I probably will have a digital camera for the weekend. I need to find a way to post them. One concern I had with the new optics was the (focal width? what do you call f=?) of the fresnel. The fresnel focuses the light of the lamp directly into the projection lens, always at the same distance from the fresnel. Obviously there has to be some tolerance, since you change that distance for focusing, but I was not sure if 400mm would be ok. It is. That's good.
Some more things that are important IMHO:
1. There very likely will never be a list of parts to use. Many people buy from ebay, so you have to be lucky to get good parts and FLEXIBLE to go with whatever you get for cheap.
2. Use this forum for inspiration, not instruction! I was inspired, or let's say encouraged to use a tft-flatscreen monitor as my projector's display. However I found out by myself how to use it, which wasn't easy. I am sorry to say this, but I think everybody who relies on exact instructions to build a projector will probably fail, since you will always encounter problems to be solved by yourself.
3. Using old notebook-tfts to connect to standard vga is the holy grale of diyers, which implies that it is not real. I tried to find information on that for a couple of months a while back. Please note: IT IS NOT POSSIBLE AT A PRICE BELOW A STANDART DESKTOP TFT-MONITOR. Thank you. I have a 800*600 notebook-display laying around. Still wanna buy?
4. Use Hqi-lamps from industrie-floodlights or sweetwater (not seawater) aquarium-lighting. I just vomited into my keyboard when I read you were THINKING about buying bulbs at 320$. Mine is as bright as these and costs 25$ new on ebay.
Ranted enough.
g!zmo
Well, as you know, I am using the ohp-route. All I used from a really old an crappy ohp was the housing and the optics. On monday or so I watched tv on a diagonal of over 3,5 meters with an inverted picture. The picture was much too big to watch comfortably, with the loudspeakers standing in the way and so on. From ebay I bought an f=400mm projection-lens (actually it's several lenses combined in a metal tube, what is that called in english? objective?) With this lens, the picture size is perfekt with the ohp hanging from the ceiling at the opposite side of the room (2,6m diagonal picture size). Most of you probably know that for any given distance of an ohp to the projection surface or for any given lens-setup the distance of the lamp to the fresnel has to be adjusted. Without doing that you can only focus the very center of the projected image, everything around it is very blurred. I had adjusted my lamp for the f=317mm lens, so with the new f=400 lens I have to readjust the lamp-fresnel distance. This is what I will be doing today. This is pretty shitty, since I desinged the projector in a way that doesn't foresee repeated reopening. Doing so is very bad for the flexible ribbon cable connecting the PCB to the display, which has to be disconnected for opening. It only allows for 30 cycles. 2 and counting. I probably will have a digital camera for the weekend. I need to find a way to post them. One concern I had with the new optics was the (focal width? what do you call f=?) of the fresnel. The fresnel focuses the light of the lamp directly into the projection lens, always at the same distance from the fresnel. Obviously there has to be some tolerance, since you change that distance for focusing, but I was not sure if 400mm would be ok. It is. That's good.
Some more things that are important IMHO:
1. There very likely will never be a list of parts to use. Many people buy from ebay, so you have to be lucky to get good parts and FLEXIBLE to go with whatever you get for cheap.
2. Use this forum for inspiration, not instruction! I was inspired, or let's say encouraged to use a tft-flatscreen monitor as my projector's display. However I found out by myself how to use it, which wasn't easy. I am sorry to say this, but I think everybody who relies on exact instructions to build a projector will probably fail, since you will always encounter problems to be solved by yourself.
3. Using old notebook-tfts to connect to standard vga is the holy grale of diyers, which implies that it is not real. I tried to find information on that for a couple of months a while back. Please note: IT IS NOT POSSIBLE AT A PRICE BELOW A STANDART DESKTOP TFT-MONITOR. Thank you. I have a 800*600 notebook-display laying around. Still wanna buy?
4. Use Hqi-lamps from industrie-floodlights or sweetwater (not seawater) aquarium-lighting. I just vomited into my keyboard when I read you were THINKING about buying bulbs at 320$. Mine is as bright as these and costs 25$ new on ebay.
Ranted enough.
g!zmo
your right when there finished they dont come back with the progress report so here is mine i tryed the tracer drawing projector and a 5 inch crt tv portable not bad, simple but not good enough so i took back the projector to the arts and craft store cause it was so simple to build a mirror light buld and lens
so in going to build my own and try an lcd so i can use the light
as im sure a lot of you no if you shine light on a tv the picture just goes away when i get mine working i will report back with instructions please eveyone do the same!
jamie
so in going to build my own and try an lcd so i can use the light
as im sure a lot of you no if you shine light on a tv the picture just goes away when i get mine working i will report back with instructions please eveyone do the same!
jamie
Comments...
Myren,
To use a LCD camera in low light conditions, a tripod stand is a
must, because the shutter opening is so long.
Gizmo,
When you suggest some part that will save someone a lot of money, could you please post the precise part number?
Markprojector,
When you say you got an 800X600 panel and it works great, could you also post the make and model number?
-------
You guys notice when I post statements about my stuff, I say ELMO HP-A350, Nview Z350, Infocus panelbook 500e, Dukane 4003, Viewsonic VB50, etc.
This lets people know exactly what to look for, to replicate the performance I'm getting. I dont just say "Got an OHP with a metal halide and a 1024X768 with a line doubler - looks great, here's a picture!" That doesnt tell anyone much of anything. Then you have to ask, and hope whoever made such a statement gets around to posting again.
If you have reason to hide what the equipment is, such as "I'm going to sell these systems and I dont want everyone knowing how I did it" then just say so -
Myren,
To use a LCD camera in low light conditions, a tripod stand is a
must, because the shutter opening is so long.
Gizmo,
When you suggest some part that will save someone a lot of money, could you please post the precise part number?
Markprojector,
When you say you got an 800X600 panel and it works great, could you also post the make and model number?
-------
You guys notice when I post statements about my stuff, I say ELMO HP-A350, Nview Z350, Infocus panelbook 500e, Dukane 4003, Viewsonic VB50, etc.
This lets people know exactly what to look for, to replicate the performance I'm getting. I dont just say "Got an OHP with a metal halide and a 1024X768 with a line doubler - looks great, here's a picture!" That doesnt tell anyone much of anything. Then you have to ask, and hope whoever made such a statement gets around to posting again.
If you have reason to hide what the equipment is, such as "I'm going to sell these systems and I dont want everyone knowing how I did it" then just say so -
Here's my instructions:
1) Get powerful bulb (choices are endless).
2) Get projection lens, anything that is cabable to do the projection.
3) Get LCD, anything that accepts VGA or video.
4) Get fresnel lens to condense the light if need to.
5) Get few fans
6) Make a box
7) Drill holes to the box for the lens and fans.
8) Place the bulb to the end of the box.
9) Attach the fresnel to the LCD.
10) Place the LCD in.
11) Place the projection lens in.
12) Focus the thing by moving the LCD and the bulb or devise some sort of focusing system and you're ready to go.
The problem is that we are all taking different routes. Various components and setups. And when somebody might be happy with something, for someone else it might not be good enough. Saying which setup for all of the ones people have made here cannot be compared unless we setup some weird **** f*ck diy-meating at some hotel in Russia where everybody brings their projectors with them and then we start comparing. Pics don't tell what it really is. And there are differences in opinions. And stuff. I don't know if I'm making any sense but the BASIC INSTRUCTIONS for building the thing has been presented at this forum several times (even I pulled it off, just couldn't get the cooling to work), there are loads of different setups and stuff here. Just take your pick or improvise.
1) Get powerful bulb (choices are endless).
2) Get projection lens, anything that is cabable to do the projection.
3) Get LCD, anything that accepts VGA or video.
4) Get fresnel lens to condense the light if need to.
5) Get few fans
6) Make a box
7) Drill holes to the box for the lens and fans.
8) Place the bulb to the end of the box.
9) Attach the fresnel to the LCD.
10) Place the LCD in.
11) Place the projection lens in.
12) Focus the thing by moving the LCD and the bulb or devise some sort of focusing system and you're ready to go.
The problem is that we are all taking different routes. Various components and setups. And when somebody might be happy with something, for someone else it might not be good enough. Saying which setup for all of the ones people have made here cannot be compared unless we setup some weird **** f*ck diy-meating at some hotel in Russia where everybody brings their projectors with them and then we start comparing. Pics don't tell what it really is. And there are differences in opinions. And stuff. I don't know if I'm making any sense but the BASIC INSTRUCTIONS for building the thing has been presented at this forum several times (even I pulled it off, just couldn't get the cooling to work), there are loads of different setups and stuff here. Just take your pick or improvise.
I agree with jjasniew...it would help tremendously to post the model #'s for the equipment that we use, even if it doesn't work well. At least it could help us generate a list of what is useful and what is not for this project. For example, I know that the Sharp LQ6NC01 5.6" LCD will not work because the driver board is not movable. It is sometimes available on Ebay.
After asking around, I have heard that many of the OHP panels suffer from blurring or redraw problems. Contrapasta posted earlier about motion ghosting with the 640x480 panels at Inventory Soultions. I think the model he is referring to is the "NView Spectra C". Has anyone else experienced motion ghosting?
I think I will order the 800x600 (don't know the model) despite low motion performance expectations. I will post full details once I put it all together.
-f4
After asking around, I have heard that many of the OHP panels suffer from blurring or redraw problems. Contrapasta posted earlier about motion ghosting with the 640x480 panels at Inventory Soultions. I think the model he is referring to is the "NView Spectra C". Has anyone else experienced motion ghosting?
I think I will order the 800x600 (don't know the model) despite low motion performance expectations. I will post full details once I put it all together.
-f4
CRT saftey
For anyone working with CRT's, here is some good info about avoiding the near-death voltages. The first two are general saftey, including discharge instructions, and the third is the screwdriver discharge method. There is also info about other houshold risks.
http://www.qsl.net/k3pgp/Notebook/Lasersam/safety.htm#safgui
http://www.concentric.net/~Redward/Safehlp.htm
http://www.playvectrex.com/shoptalk/discharge/discharge_f.htm
For anyone working with CRT's, here is some good info about avoiding the near-death voltages. The first two are general saftey, including discharge instructions, and the third is the screwdriver discharge method. There is also info about other houshold risks.
http://www.qsl.net/k3pgp/Notebook/Lasersam/safety.htm#safgui
http://www.concentric.net/~Redward/Safehlp.htm
http://www.playvectrex.com/shoptalk/discharge/discharge_f.htm
deranged beast
look, I know absolutely none of you are interested but i want to ask a question.
To anyone in england, does anyone know of a half decent a/v surplus store in the uk where I could get an lcd ohp panel cos i've had enough of being outbid on ebay for lcd panels, they just get too damn expensive.
The US surplus place linked earlier wants 90 dollars to cover delivery, once i've paied for the panel, for that money I could buy a 15"TFT.
frankbatzen: Ceiling mounted? thats a big box you must have bolted to the ceiling, still it shows things are getting a bit more home cinema and less diy-shed
look, I know absolutely none of you are interested but i want to ask a question.
To anyone in england, does anyone know of a half decent a/v surplus store in the uk where I could get an lcd ohp panel cos i've had enough of being outbid on ebay for lcd panels, they just get too damn expensive.
The US surplus place linked earlier wants 90 dollars to cover delivery, once i've paied for the panel, for that money I could buy a 15"TFT.
frankbatzen: Ceiling mounted? thats a big box you must have bolted to the ceiling, still it shows things are getting a bit more home cinema and less diy-shed
Supplies
Hi,
This is Bob from inventory Solutions. We have recently learned of your project and have been receiving many phone calls, thanks to all!
I just wanted to let you know that we have years of experience in video projection. In addition to teh LCD panels and OHP's we also have screen material, CRT's, cables and many other peices of AV gear that might work towards your final goal.
Pelase write or give us a call, Bob 1# or Greg 2# (404) 355-6147.
We are in Atlanta, EST.
Regards,
Hi,
This is Bob from inventory Solutions. We have recently learned of your project and have been receiving many phone calls, thanks to all!
I just wanted to let you know that we have years of experience in video projection. In addition to teh LCD panels and OHP's we also have screen material, CRT's, cables and many other peices of AV gear that might work towards your final goal.
Pelase write or give us a call, Bob 1# or Greg 2# (404) 355-6147.
We are in Atlanta, EST.
Regards,
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