I was thinking about something similar. It seemed to me the bearings would ride more efficiently along the rod. If you mount the bearings on aluminum angle you avoid having to drill tricky angles. I think it would make for a very light and compact carriage.
Wilfried,
I use the same sliding parts ( Dold Steinach ), but I keep both sliders at the right side of the teller and a 100-100-10 mm Alu angle profile for the crosstable.
Hans.
solid construction !!
Now that is looking gorgious guys , fantastic .
Any estimation about the price to build up something like this ?
I figure that a single side mount arm is not that rigid at all .. but the 63K question of course .. does the cantilever transport enough energy into the
construction to expect issues ?
Congrats with such a beautiful thing !!!
Paul
Now that is looking gorgious guys , fantastic .
Any estimation about the price to build up something like this ?
I figure that a single side mount arm is not that rigid at all .. but the 63K question of course .. does the cantilever transport enough energy into the
construction to expect issues ?
Congrats with such a beautiful thing !!!
Paul
What you can see at the moment cost me ca. 180 EUR. I was lucky finding two of these Linos linear tables with 50mm travel range for 105 EUR at ebay.
There will be more costs for the Panzerholz bridge, and the glasstube, bearings, armwand, etc. But I think in total it will be below 500 EUR.
Wilfried
There will be more costs for the Panzerholz bridge, and the glasstube, bearings, armwand, etc. But I think in total it will be below 500 EUR.
Wilfried
Ah, interesting what's going on here!
In my 'construction' (only on paper at the moment, I have to produce over 50 Lenco idler wheels before I can start some private work) I thought of using two 8 mm guide rails, both on the right side like on Hans' picture. Just because I have them (from old printers), but do you think these are too small? I have also some thicker rods (a long 1/2" piece also, for which I see no other purpose in a metric country. This would result in a heavy affair then. The length of these rails would be around 160 mm.
Greetings, Hansrudolf
In my 'construction' (only on paper at the moment, I have to produce over 50 Lenco idler wheels before I can start some private work) I thought of using two 8 mm guide rails, both on the right side like on Hans' picture. Just because I have them (from old printers), but do you think these are too small? I have also some thicker rods (a long 1/2" piece also, for which I see no other purpose in a metric country. This would result in a heavy affair then. The length of these rails would be around 160 mm.
Greetings, Hansrudolf
Hansrudolf,
I use 10mm rail, long 200mm, but I`m not sure thats thick enough.
Ah by the time you finnised your idler job............well you will know.
Hans.
Guys ...
I'm having a hard time here trying to understand what would be better :
yes there is energy produced by the moving parts of the cart , that much I
do understand but .. what to do with that energy , right ? we want to absorb it as much as we can , do we ?
and if so .. does an extremely rigid bar construction offers that ? In my view it only send the vibes back into the wand and bearings etc. or do I miss
something ? please explain to me what we're after with the massive and secure mount of the bar onto the TT surface .
THX a lot !
Great works and realy interesting disscusion at this point !
Paul
I'm having a hard time here trying to understand what would be better :
yes there is energy produced by the moving parts of the cart , that much I
do understand
but .. what to do with that energy , right ? we want to absorb it as much as we can , do we ?and if so .. does an extremely rigid bar construction offers that ? In my view it only send the vibes back into the wand and bearings etc. or do I miss
something ? please explain to me what we're after with the massive and secure mount of the bar onto the TT surface .
THX a lot !
Great works and realy interesting disscusion at this point !
Paul
some CNC parts
The 10mm shaft was bought by a friend with a linear bearing but it didn't work!! I then bought the clamps from the same ebay guy.
Bearings are open unoiled from RS Aust about 8$ each. Screws etc are 3mm.
A bit of meccano too!
I havent heard a Shure M97HE sound better!!
Still some mild sticking problems. Increased the weight to 2.5 gms and lifted up the stupid damper and its better. I have been playing old records though. Just put on a good Sade UK album and seems good. The wire is from a mouse and may be a bit stiff and could be better dressed with the guide at the back of the TT.
i am a bit concerned with the increased weight and am working on a hinged arm. V blocks a la Lenco arm come to mind. I have an old arm I might chop up and fit V blocks or some 1.5mm v section I have seen at the hobby shop.
I'm a bit scared to fit a better cartridge till its perfect and I am confident enough not to break it. Might be a while but till then it's incredible. Everything already said about the sound is true.
Thanks for all the hard work guys.
kffern
The 10mm shaft was bought by a friend with a linear bearing but it didn't work!! I then bought the clamps from the same ebay guy.
Bearings are open unoiled from RS Aust about 8$ each. Screws etc are 3mm.
A bit of meccano too!
I havent heard a Shure M97HE sound better!!
Still some mild sticking problems. Increased the weight to 2.5 gms and lifted up the stupid damper and its better. I have been playing old records though. Just put on a good Sade UK album and seems good. The wire is from a mouse and may be a bit stiff and could be better dressed with the guide at the back of the TT.
i am a bit concerned with the increased weight and am working on a hinged arm. V blocks a la Lenco arm come to mind. I have an old arm I might chop up and fit V blocks or some 1.5mm v section I have seen at the hobby shop.
I'm a bit scared to fit a better cartridge till its perfect and I am confident enough not to break it. Might be a while but till then it's incredible. Everything already said about the sound is true.
Thanks for all the hard work guys.
kffern
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Forgot to add that it is an olsd Stanton headshell. My attempt at a headshell wasnt very pretty.
If it was the right way up i thought the rear part which has a shoulder might drag. It was a bit of a stuff up though becouse that was before I made the aluminium extension and I admit my thought process wasnt very clear and I didnt think it though before the araldite set.
Ther will be more with a more suitable headshell .....
kffern
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Hi Hansrudolf.
Lenco idler wheels? Do you sell them? I would be interested in 2
Brgds
Yes I do make some, but just now can't take any more orders. You can see them at LencoHeaven. I seem to remember you are also member there, (but not too active there I think ...
)Back to topic now...
Greetings, Hansrudolf
I'm a bit scared to fit a better cartridge till its perfect and I am confident enough not to break it. Might be a while but till then it's incredible. Everything already said about the sound is true.
Thanks for all the hard work guys.
kffern
QUOTE]
This replaced a Michell Tecnoarm with a Denon 103R.
I'm a long time Lencoheaven lurker too.
Apologies for the atrocious spelling. Can't get used to my new ultra slim notebook.
kffern
Yes I do make some, but just now can't take any more orders. You can see them at LencoHeaven. I seem to remember you are also member there, (but not too active there I think ...
Back to topic now...
Greetings, Hansrudolf
To much work versus to little play...
Brgds