Yeah the suggestion from the shop was to either clean them and put some singer oil in them, or to run them for a few hours with a small motor so that the internal lubricant dissolves evenly and everything falls into place.
Now I am trying to find some singer oil...
I cannot believe what the crisis has done to such specialized shops...
THX for the inspiring words !
Weird that even a Duran distributor cannot keep up their stock ! but indeed .. crisis is everywhere so demand is low at this time . keep searching
the web !!
As for the bearings : I haven't rinsed my bearings at all . they came with a very light oil already . and works flawless . sealed bearings could be a bit tricky .. but if memory serves me well , the sealing ring can be easily removed with a sharp needle .
I'll provide some more details about my arm here soon . I used a beefy stainless cylinder and collar to adjust the height of the arm construction , as well as the angle relative to tangent line .
THX
Paul
Weird that even a Duran distributor cannot keep up their stock ! but indeed .. crisis is everywhere so demand is low at this time . keep searching
the web !!
As for the bearings : I haven't rinsed my bearings at all . they came with a very light oil already . and works flawless . sealed bearings could be a bit tricky .. but if memory serves me well , the sealing ring can be easily removed with a sharp needle .
I'll provide some more details about my arm here soon . I used a beefy stainless cylinder and collar to adjust the height of the arm construction , as well as the angle relative to tangent line .
THX
Paul
to complete the story ...
My Duran glass tubes are 10MM in diameter , and 2MM wall thickness !
I have choosen a bit thicker wall , rather than the more commonly available 1MM wall . less ringy IMHO .
But of course one can controle ringing by applying a certain form of dampening as well . perhaps I'll try to fill a tube with lead shots and oil .. coffee creamer , fine sand , silicon paste .. I'll try all this later as soon the
arm is in duty here .
Paul
My Duran glass tubes are 10MM in diameter , and 2MM wall thickness !
I have choosen a bit thicker wall , rather than the more commonly available 1MM wall . less ringy IMHO .
But of course one can controle ringing by applying a certain form of dampening as well . perhaps I'll try to fill a tube with lead shots and oil .. coffee creamer , fine sand , silicon paste .. I'll try all this later as soon the
arm is in duty here .
Paul
They did not even know what I was asking them... you know... the look of the cow that is staring at the incoming train.... anyway... I found another source but it s on the other side of town... I hope that these ones carry the stuff they have on their site...
Anyway... I can always throw away 30 euros and get a chromed SKF axle...
I plan to fill mine with natural bee's wax... I love that material... love that honey smelll... love the color....
In the States Our Crisis is WALMART and the likes. Even if WALMART had what you need I am sure it would be a piece of junk.
Another idea for a source is if you have a University (decent sized nearby). The Chemistry dept. usually has an in house glass blower.
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Ok, I give up ... almost at least.
I'm collecting the material for this kind of tangential arm, and as always I have some ideas of my own which I will try to realize. But it will not be really soon, though. Don't hold your breath.
I am preparing a drawing of how to arrange the whole thing, and this one little bit of information I was missing:
I found somewhere that the arm length should be around 2"- 2.5", but is this the effective length from the glass tube center to the stylus, or is it just the length of the arm tube(s) as cut? Most pictures, including Colin's, show the stylus being quite a distance in front of the arm.
I was skimming through the postings, am now on page 40 and did not find a definite answer.Can some of the different builders tell what effective length they use?
Maybe I will have to do the other 40 too... :-(
Regards, Hansrudolf
I'm collecting the material for this kind of tangential arm, and as always I have some ideas of my own which I will try to realize. But it will not be really soon, though. Don't hold your breath.
I am preparing a drawing of how to arrange the whole thing, and this one little bit of information I was missing:
I found somewhere that the arm length should be around 2"- 2.5", but is this the effective length from the glass tube center to the stylus, or is it just the length of the arm tube(s) as cut? Most pictures, including Colin's, show the stylus being quite a distance in front of the arm.
I was skimming through the postings, am now on page 40 and did not find a definite answer.Can some of the different builders tell what effective length they use?
Maybe I will have to do the other 40 too... :-(
Regards, Hansrudolf
HansRudolf,
The 2"- 2.5" meant to be stylustip-pivot. ( but there is no pivot!! )
OK you are now at page 40; I`ve done also all these pages a month or so ago.
p.s. On the pics it all looks bigger as it is.
p.s.2 I`m going to made a slide for the whole arm, as you know I`m an adept of the Clearaudio outerring.
p.s.3 I`m going to try the 37gr Pierre Clément cart. I`ve read in the Cantus thread, some guys from Danmark have had good results with the Ortofon SPU ( also a heavy Brother )
Hans.
The 2"- 2.5" meant to be stylustip-pivot. ( but there is no pivot!! )
OK you are now at page 40; I`ve done also all these pages a month or so ago.
p.s. On the pics it all looks bigger as it is.
p.s.2 I`m going to made a slide for the whole arm, as you know I`m an adept of the Clearaudio outerring.
p.s.3 I`m going to try the 37gr Pierre Clément cart. I`ve read in the Cantus thread, some guys from Danmark have had good results with the Ortofon SPU ( also a heavy Brother )
Hans.
LOL
No... I just asked a friend to pick them up for me and I met him right now after I left work
The tubes are awesome by the way.
They are obviously industrially made and not blown, since you can see the joining on its one side as a line that deflects light. Other than that, it seems super smooth.
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Hi Dimitris ,
Did you received a full lenght ? you can cut 6 pcs of 25 CM than .. or more , shorter if you wish .
Cutting the glass tube is very easy you can do it yourself if you want , it's realy that easy .. use a sharp edge of a file .. make a straight perpendicular scratch on the glass surface ( about 2 Millimeter wide will suffice ) .. apply some water on the tube and simply brake it in one move ( do as if you wanna open the scratch ) . the scratch facing away from you and simply apply some force on the tube with both thumbs .
Good to hear that you have located a source
Paul
Did you received a full lenght ? you can cut 6 pcs of 25 CM than .. or more , shorter if you wish .
Cutting the glass tube is very easy
you can do it yourself if you want , it's realy that easy .. use a sharp edge of a file .. make a straight perpendicular scratch on the glass surface ( about 2 Millimeter wide will suffice ) .. apply some water on the tube and simply brake it in one move ( do as if you wanna open the scratch ) . the scratch facing away from you and simply apply some force on the tube with both thumbs .Good to hear that you have located a source
Paul
I have just installed the arm on my Lenco deck looks gorgious
The armboard is machined out a 4MM thick aluminum sheet . tightened to the deck with 8 Torx screws .
Time to manage the wiring and draw myself a tangent protractor in order to precisely set-up the arm .
Think I can have a listen this upcoming weekend
Paul
looks gorgious The armboard is machined out a 4MM thick aluminum sheet . tightened to the deck with 8 Torx screws .
Time to manage the wiring and draw myself a tangent protractor in order to precisely set-up the arm .
Think I can have a listen this upcoming weekend
Paul
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Yep I got two tubes of 1,5m each and I just cut my first piece. I did not see your post in time and I scored an entire circle around it, but it broke pretty evenly. I just put it on my desk with the scored line on the edge and gave it a push like when breaking plexiglass. Super easy.
And the new carriage I am trying seems to work perfectly. Unfortunately the wood was too thin and I managed to snap it, so no photos for you today... Perhaps after my dinner if I am not dead asleep
And the new carriage I am trying seems to work perfectly. Unfortunately the wood was too thin and I managed to snap it, so no photos for you today... Perhaps after my dinner if I am not dead asleep
I managed to figure this out after all.
If you notice the maple square, it is cut with the wood lines vertical. This along with the small thickness made the wood very bendy in the axis of the screws. Not what we want at all.
Tomorrow I will cut a thicker piece and make it a T. I am within weight limits anyway.
About the alternative design, the idea works nicely and allows for a much lighter carriage, but it requires some precision angle drilling which can be tricky...
Here is a sketch of it, looking it from the side.
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Hi Hans,
interesting and good to know you are also on that route.
The slide you mention interests me, because I also want to do something similar. I want to have the whole arm as low over the record as possible, but for changing the records I don't want it there! So I will mount all on a movable (and lockable) slide which can be moved back maybe 90 mm.
Is your plan similar to this, or do you think of moving the arm to the right (supposing it is mounted in the usual position) ?
Greetings, Hansrudolf
So I have a question......maybe its been answered but its daunting going through the whole
thread again. If ideal weight is somewhere around 20 grams and if I've read correctly the
counter weight is 10 grams.....this leaves 10 grams for the rest of the arm?? Cartridge is at least 5 add the counter (if its 10) thats 15....only leaves 5 for wand, headshell, bearings carriage?? Or is the 20 grams the wand without counter weight?.....
Heres some pics of my progress......the coin pics are with a 10 gram counter, the ones with out are with a 5 gram counter. The counter slides on a smaller carbon rod, inside a larger carbon tube. I still have to rework the carriage to a "T" shape.
The Table itself is of an old NEC direct drive...also a linear....damped with 9 pounds of
putty, and a fresh coat of lipstick. The needle is 2.75" from the carriage, the headshell is made from Aspen.
thread again. If ideal weight is somewhere around 20 grams and if I've read correctly the
counter weight is 10 grams.....this leaves 10 grams for the rest of the arm?? Cartridge is at least 5 add the counter (if its 10) thats 15....only leaves 5 for wand, headshell, bearings carriage?? Or is the 20 grams the wand without counter weight?.....
Heres some pics of my progress......the coin pics are with a 10 gram counter, the ones with out are with a 5 gram counter. The counter slides on a smaller carbon rod, inside a larger carbon tube. I still have to rework the carriage to a "T" shape.
The Table itself is of an old NEC direct drive...also a linear....damped with 9 pounds of
putty, and a fresh coat of lipstick. The needle is 2.75" from the carriage, the headshell is made from Aspen.
PDR,
For best pitch tracking warps the pivot t stylus tip should be approx 2.5". This is the measurement point I use, rather than carriage to tip because I place the T farther back to use as a weight displacement and compensate for the height above platter. Hence doing this I can listen to painfully warped records with very little pitch variation.
Colin
For best pitch tracking warps the pivot t stylus tip should be approx 2.5". This is the measurement point I use, rather than carriage to tip because I place the T farther back to use as a weight displacement and compensate for the height above platter. Hence doing this I can listen to painfully warped records with very little pitch variation.
Colin
And to further answer the question, 20 grams is the weight to aim for minus cartridge, though this depends on the distribution of the mass. You could even have a 40g arm, but!!, this will hit a snag on off center pressings. This also makes the case for levelling important, when a bias tilt is applied this does not take into consideration anything but a perfectly centered record which rarely exist. I've tested every situation that you could encounter with vinyl and my arm design tracks them all.
Colin
Colin
Hi Hansrudolf,
Yes I like to have my arm also as low as possible and need a lot of space to change a record.
I put the whole tonearm on a slide and move it, from above the platter, backwards and visa versa. ( locked at both ends with a small magnet )
In my " Jazzlab " I found a little Proxxon crosstable, going to mount this tool, under 90 degree, on the slide. ( today )
So I can easy tune the VTA and also very handy for lining the cartridge.
Hansrudolf we are on the same track.
Show you pics. when I`m ready so far.
Hans.