I prefer panel mounted (secured with screws) for those AC receptacles and most secure. If your cut out hole is accurate, snap in type are fine.
For 2 phase or 3 phase setups, I use SV and KV Lumberg connectors (for panel and plugs) depend on witch side the hot wire is coming from: Product – Lumberg
I tried to use female/hided pins type on hot side of cable to make sure there is no existential touch in case that cable is disconnected. Their panel connectors are round and easy to drill panel for the right dia. Very high quality connectors with screw/lock advantage.
I tried to use female/hided pins type on hot side of cable to make sure there is no existential touch in case that cable is disconnected. Their panel connectors are round and easy to drill panel for the right dia. Very high quality connectors with screw/lock advantage.
Those look really nice, better than the cheapy "aviation connectors" I have.
Aviation Plug GX16 3-Pin/4-Pin/5-Pin/6-Pin Male & Female Wire Panel Chassis Connector - modDIY.com
The onesI have use the male part on the panel, female on the cable, so less safe.
Alex where do you get the multi-core cable to use with those?
I use that one for 2 phase: https://catalog.belden.com/techdata/EN/9418_techdata.pdf
Got about 10 meters from my local surplus store. I like it since it is very flexible, plus 300V RMS 5A rated, and it is well EMI/RFI protected. I see several sales on eBay now, but can’t be sure if these are authentic. Probably it’s, but who knows...
I used same box as Pyramid showed. Quite tight inside for 2 phase architecture, but I succeeded to drop all needed staff in it. Can make YouTube move to show it, if needed.
What about a MCP101, will that work in this circuit? I see Mouser has lots of MCP101-475 in TO-92 package. The pinout is different but I think the part with the "H" bondout could just be turned around.
Yes, that will work. Any active high device with a 4-4.75V threshold will work as long as you can sort the pins out.
Its Pins 1 & 3 reversed, so just turn it the other way round. I bought and used this for the 100hz strobe light kit, it worked although another issue came about. I've not tried this for the SG4 yet as I've managed to buy DS1833 (including spares for any future build from my sources.
Yes but be careful, the part is available with two different pinouts, the H version can simply be turned around but the D version cannot.
Yes, I was careful and bought the H version. I refer to the datasheet to be very sure what I'm buying.
This is annoying: the roatary encoders I bought have header pins that are right angle but mounted on the top side of the pcb, making it difficult to mount on a panel.
I was not looking forward to desoldering and inserting a 5 pin row. Why would they mount them on top instead of on the bottom side? Straight pins would have been better.
Anyway I was able to file down the edge of the board and bend the pins a bit and get abour 0.1mm of clearance. I might be able to bend the pins a little more as well.
I was not looking forward to desoldering and inserting a 5 pin row. Why would they mount them on top instead of on the bottom side? Straight pins would have been better.
Anyway I was able to file down the edge of the board and bend the pins a bit and get abour 0.1mm of clearance. I might be able to bend the pins a little more as well.
Hi Alex,
You work is correct and the same I've done for mine.
If I've the time, I intend to do a back to back with straight pins to look more compact.
All in the pursuit of adapting these things to pro finish and best possible. My SG-4 controller with TDA8950 amp have been quite flawless operation for months now. Happy with it. However I do rarely find a bug, when switched on from cold, its sometimes the setting goes into Voltage adjust mode. I suspect its still something to do with this encoder thing. I didn't do anything or touch it before switching on, just switch on from last played.
As an added custom feature, I wired a momentary push button switch in parallel to the encoder push switch. I find it more practical using this switch.
You work is correct and the same I've done for mine.
If I've the time, I intend to do a back to back with straight pins to look more compact.
All in the pursuit of adapting these things to pro finish and best possible. My SG-4 controller with TDA8950 amp have been quite flawless operation for months now. Happy with it. However I do rarely find a bug, when switched on from cold, its sometimes the setting goes into Voltage adjust mode. I suspect its still something to do with this encoder thing. I didn't do anything or touch it before switching on, just switch on from last played.
As an added custom feature, I wired a momentary push button switch in parallel to the encoder push switch. I find it more practical using this switch.
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