Hallo guys,
this is my first thread after reading a lot for years on this website. So thank you for all your input. I dont speak english very well, so sorry for that. Now I want to design a new speaker and it should be my last one (at least for some decades)...
Points to consider:
Tweeter is BlieSMa T25B crossed at 2750hz LR4 passiv.
Midrange is BlieSMa M74B crossed at 520hz LR4 activ (considering my needed max SPL and LR4 I think its fine).
Woofer will be most likely the new Purifi PTT10 crossed activ. Closed.
DSP will be miniDSP Flex or Flex 8 depending if I go with hybrid crossover or not.
Amp for the Woofers is a Accuphase 303-X (I inherit from my grandpa, so selling it, is more or less no option)
Amp for the Midrange I consider Tubelab SE with single-ended 300B
Amp for the Tweeter will be the same (if hybridcrossover) or a Tubelab SSE with single ended KT88 13-15Watt (to come closer to the max SPL of the M74B with 7-8 Watts from 300Bs)
I have a UMIK1 for measurements.
I dont know if I wanna go the Tube route with a Hybrid Crossover or not... Or just use 3 Amps... one less amp is tempting...
The plan for hybrid (of couse can only be finaled with enclosure build and measurments taken):
The plan if going full activ:
The enclosure plan:
Volume for the Purifi is exactly 24,8 L like Purifi datasheet and WinISD consider for 0,7. (You can get the mm² from sketchup for every object and than get the volume out of it. Volumen displacement from the Purifi is also considert.)
It maybe look like the enclosure for the purifi goes all the way to the top. But there is a plank under to M74B without any holes.
The bracing you can see in the pictures.
The front is in total 30cm wide. At the mid of the Midrangedome its 142mm wide and at the tweeter 88mm wide. C-T-C speacing between tweeter and midrange is about 1,2. (I follow some of HifiJims (and his friends) recommandations, I found at diy audio.
It will be build ot of 22mm good quality MDF and all parts will be glued with SikaBond T1 Purform. I have a fully equipt woodshop in my basement with a format circular saw, routers and so on. It will take time to do all the parts, but that's what make the design possible for me. You can print every piece in Sketchup in 1:1 and than use a router and flexible curve ruler to get it perfect. Than use the finished one as template for the same pieces.
The Tuned Mass Damper at the top will build out of steel with a total diameter of 110mm. It will be damped with small adjustable oildampers you can buy for RC cars. And it will be adjustable in height. I consider to make it out of aluminium and hollow to adjust the weight with damping oil. But this will increase the costs and chances are, the oil will escape.
I want you to ask, if my design is completely ******** or are there some mayjor design flaws?
Should I skip the hybric crossover and take a miniDSP Flex 8 with 3 Amps instead and for what reasons?
What I could maybe improve?
I just tried 2 passiv Notches for the M74B like found on this forum, but cant see much improvement over just one with slightly diffrent values. Is there a reason to use two? The Peaks are to close in my option to get much benefit out of it. Peak of resonance is -54 dB down at its highest point.
Thank you very much, be nice and greeting from Germany.
this is my first thread after reading a lot for years on this website. So thank you for all your input. I dont speak english very well, so sorry for that. Now I want to design a new speaker and it should be my last one (at least for some decades)...
Points to consider:
- My room is 5,5x4,5x2,6m. Listening Distance is 3,8m. My avg. (for me) loud listening at 3,8m is about 75-80db avg. with 85-90 db peaks. So the speakers should produce around 85db. avg. with 95-100db peaks, to have some headroom.
- Musictaste is very wide. Only thing I dont listen to is stuff like heavy metal, large orchestras...
- It should be a 3-way. No 2-way. No Di'appolito.
- It should be activ with dsp.
- It should allow to swap amps (so no Hypex but miniDSP)
- It should use the T25B and M74B (I already have them)
- Passiv Notchfilter will applied to lower distortion of the resonance peak of the M74B
- It should have a nice dispersion, but dont use waveguide (because my son is 1,5y old and I dont want to have beryllium exposed to him (atm using a TW34BWNG in my speakers that have to go because of it)
- Room is my homeoffice, music, homecinema, gaming room. So room treatment is an option. A little bit is done already and I will continue.
- It should looks like build by a company, not a diy dude. Similar to Rockport Orion
- It should cost overall arround 5-6000€ without amps.
- Solidstate Amp for woofer and Tubes for the Midrangdome and the Tweeter.
- It can be a bigger floorstanding speaker but no refrigerator.
- I want to do some fancy stuff, even if it wont help much (Tuned Mass Damper at the top of the speaker)
- Building time should be arround 6-12 months.
Tweeter is BlieSMa T25B crossed at 2750hz LR4 passiv.
Midrange is BlieSMa M74B crossed at 520hz LR4 activ (considering my needed max SPL and LR4 I think its fine).
Woofer will be most likely the new Purifi PTT10 crossed activ. Closed.
DSP will be miniDSP Flex or Flex 8 depending if I go with hybrid crossover or not.
Amp for the Woofers is a Accuphase 303-X (I inherit from my grandpa, so selling it, is more or less no option)
Amp for the Midrange I consider Tubelab SE with single-ended 300B
Amp for the Tweeter will be the same (if hybridcrossover) or a Tubelab SSE with single ended KT88 13-15Watt (to come closer to the max SPL of the M74B with 7-8 Watts from 300Bs)
I have a UMIK1 for measurements.
I dont know if I wanna go the Tube route with a Hybrid Crossover or not... Or just use 3 Amps... one less amp is tempting...
The plan for hybrid (of couse can only be finaled with enclosure build and measurments taken):
The plan if going full activ:
The enclosure plan:
Volume for the Purifi is exactly 24,8 L like Purifi datasheet and WinISD consider for 0,7. (You can get the mm² from sketchup for every object and than get the volume out of it. Volumen displacement from the Purifi is also considert.)
It maybe look like the enclosure for the purifi goes all the way to the top. But there is a plank under to M74B without any holes.
The bracing you can see in the pictures.
The front is in total 30cm wide. At the mid of the Midrangedome its 142mm wide and at the tweeter 88mm wide. C-T-C speacing between tweeter and midrange is about 1,2. (I follow some of HifiJims (and his friends) recommandations, I found at diy audio.
It will be build ot of 22mm good quality MDF and all parts will be glued with SikaBond T1 Purform. I have a fully equipt woodshop in my basement with a format circular saw, routers and so on. It will take time to do all the parts, but that's what make the design possible for me. You can print every piece in Sketchup in 1:1 and than use a router and flexible curve ruler to get it perfect. Than use the finished one as template for the same pieces.
The Tuned Mass Damper at the top will build out of steel with a total diameter of 110mm. It will be damped with small adjustable oildampers you can buy for RC cars. And it will be adjustable in height. I consider to make it out of aluminium and hollow to adjust the weight with damping oil. But this will increase the costs and chances are, the oil will escape.
I want you to ask, if my design is completely ******** or are there some mayjor design flaws?
Should I skip the hybric crossover and take a miniDSP Flex 8 with 3 Amps instead and for what reasons?
What I could maybe improve?
I just tried 2 passiv Notches for the M74B like found on this forum, but cant see much improvement over just one with slightly diffrent values. Is there a reason to use two? The Peaks are to close in my option to get much benefit out of it. Peak of resonance is -54 dB down at its highest point.
Thank you very much, be nice and greeting from Germany.
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The only input I can offer is to say that doing hybrid bi-amping with solid state amp to the woofers (with active crossover) < 80hz, and monoblock tube amps on the midbass/tweeter (with passive crossover), made a significant improvement in my system vs just vertical bi-amping with tubes. It allowed the tubes to do what they do best (sing), and let the SS amp handle lower frequencies with slam and control without muddying up lower vocals.
Thanks for your replays. The Massdamper is more of a gimmick.
I hade a lot of space left in the top and thought of what I could do with it. I hope the tuned mass damper will help to reduce the decay time of resonances introduced in the cabinet by deep and heavy bass notes from the woofers, if tuned well to those. If not? Then its a nice "physics project" that went wrong. If its hinders the sound I could still take it out, as the top will be detachable. Sonus Faber says they mass dampers but they have no spring and no damper. Only mass. So this wont work out.
Im not an expert with Virtuix. I testet the diffraction function but didnt like it very much. I thought before trying to do something, what maybe look good in simulation that wont work out in reality. I stick with commun "rules" that seams to work out well. So very minimal wide of the frontbaffle, with very large roundovers on a wide housing. And a CTC from 1,2. As I dont know if I will stick with the Crossover of 2750hz from mid to high, after listening tests, It will maybe 2500-3000 hz. I will build a Testbaffle with the given size and shape out of cheap material and than decide what works out. But your right, I will try to work it our in Virtuix.
The Sikabond is an elastic construction adhesiv on PU basis with a shore hardness A 40, which is shock and vibration absorbing.
I hade a lot of space left in the top and thought of what I could do with it. I hope the tuned mass damper will help to reduce the decay time of resonances introduced in the cabinet by deep and heavy bass notes from the woofers, if tuned well to those. If not? Then its a nice "physics project" that went wrong. If its hinders the sound I could still take it out, as the top will be detachable. Sonus Faber says they mass dampers but they have no spring and no damper. Only mass. So this wont work out.
Im not an expert with Virtuix. I testet the diffraction function but didnt like it very much. I thought before trying to do something, what maybe look good in simulation that wont work out in reality. I stick with commun "rules" that seams to work out well. So very minimal wide of the frontbaffle, with very large roundovers on a wide housing. And a CTC from 1,2. As I dont know if I will stick with the Crossover of 2750hz from mid to high, after listening tests, It will maybe 2500-3000 hz. I will build a Testbaffle with the given size and shape out of cheap material and than decide what works out. But your right, I will try to work it our in Virtuix.
The Sikabond is an elastic construction adhesiv on PU basis with a shore hardness A 40, which is shock and vibration absorbing.
If you can keep the physical distance between acoustic centers of the tweeter and mid to less than the wavelength of the crossover frequency, it helps retain phase coherency. Closer is usually better, so that the crossover frequency can occur at a frequency the tweeter can handle and still keep that wavelength less than the distance between the acoustic centers. It helps generate a single wave from two drivers.
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Heyho, I had a hour and played a little bit.
First I noticed that Z axis looks wrong to me. I googled some pictures of Vituixcad builds and noticed that all of them seem to use Y axis for height. I googlex XYZ axis and there are 2 common models. One uses Z the other Y for height. So i settled with Y for height and Z for depth. I measured in sketchup from ground to driver mids in a straight line 90 dg. and then went from this line to the mid of the driver to get the depth. Makes the most sence for me in a 3d space.
Thanks for your input knotscott. It seems closer spacing works better in Vituixcad. So I went with this. I managed to get the drivers 50,5mm closer in Sketchup and CTC spacing with the crossover at 2750hz is now 0,72.
I switched to LR6 for the Woofer, which mostly solve the dip immediatly. I tried some other crossovers but it was not possible to get the directivity flatter at that point. Getting the driver closer worsen the dip. Putting the driver a lot more appart (20-30cm) seems to help, but not drasticly. But this is no option, then the tweeter would be to high for my listenting possition. Could you guys recommend something or is it fine as it is for now?
For the tweeter I went with a 3rd order bessel filter, considering a 6 ohm load impedance. For the Midrange I stick with LR4 with a 8,7 ohm load impedance. Here the question, is this correct? 6ohm load from the driver + 2,7 ohm from the resistor in series?
So asymmetrical filters on both sides. The second order shelf for the woofer could than be adjusted to solve the bafflestep in the finished enclosure.
Here is the current build:
First I noticed that Z axis looks wrong to me. I googled some pictures of Vituixcad builds and noticed that all of them seem to use Y axis for height. I googlex XYZ axis and there are 2 common models. One uses Z the other Y for height. So i settled with Y for height and Z for depth. I measured in sketchup from ground to driver mids in a straight line 90 dg. and then went from this line to the mid of the driver to get the depth. Makes the most sence for me in a 3d space.
Thanks for your input knotscott. It seems closer spacing works better in Vituixcad. So I went with this. I managed to get the drivers 50,5mm closer in Sketchup and CTC spacing with the crossover at 2750hz is now 0,72.
I switched to LR6 for the Woofer, which mostly solve the dip immediatly. I tried some other crossovers but it was not possible to get the directivity flatter at that point. Getting the driver closer worsen the dip. Putting the driver a lot more appart (20-30cm) seems to help, but not drasticly. But this is no option, then the tweeter would be to high for my listenting possition. Could you guys recommend something or is it fine as it is for now?
For the tweeter I went with a 3rd order bessel filter, considering a 6 ohm load impedance. For the Midrange I stick with LR4 with a 8,7 ohm load impedance. Here the question, is this correct? 6ohm load from the driver + 2,7 ohm from the resistor in series?
So asymmetrical filters on both sides. The second order shelf for the woofer could than be adjusted to solve the bafflestep in the finished enclosure.
Here is the current build:
Hi, for my taste and experience the CTC distance between mid and woofer is also unecessary too high - especially with the relatively high crossover frequency - and will cause strong lobing and a resulting -3dB dip in the power response around the xover frequency; this may result in a "thin" sound of the fundamentals. Also the large distance with the relatively high xover frequency needed for a dome mid may cause that you hear seperate sound sources if the listening distance is too near.
I see this as the most critical point in your design: keep the sound sources tight together, especially with a mid that requires a high xover frequency like a dome mid.
Another thing is the "tube" you build for the woofer, which will act as a short transmission line (assumption: Length = 20cm --> 343m/s / 0,2m / 4 = 428 Hz; this is fully in the passband) and will show a strong radial standing wave (assumption: Diameter = 28cm --> 343m/s / 0,28 / 2 = 612Hz; this is around the assumed xover frequency and on the falling slope of the woofer).
Have a look at the group delay in the fundamentals with a LR6 for the mid/woofer xover. From my experience do not go steeper than LR4 to keep the group delay below the hearing threshold...
The design/shape may look good, but in my eyes it is is not the optimum to get all out of the very nice SOTA drivers...
I see this as the most critical point in your design: keep the sound sources tight together, especially with a mid that requires a high xover frequency like a dome mid.
Another thing is the "tube" you build for the woofer, which will act as a short transmission line (assumption: Length = 20cm --> 343m/s / 0,2m / 4 = 428 Hz; this is fully in the passband) and will show a strong radial standing wave (assumption: Diameter = 28cm --> 343m/s / 0,28 / 2 = 612Hz; this is around the assumed xover frequency and on the falling slope of the woofer).
Have a look at the group delay in the fundamentals with a LR6 for the mid/woofer xover. From my experience do not go steeper than LR4 to keep the group delay below the hearing threshold...
The design/shape may look good, but in my eyes it is is not the optimum to get all out of the very nice SOTA drivers...
Hallo Kwesi, thanks for you input. Thats why I want to ask here, to avoid horrible mistakes.
I really liked the design of the Orion, so I tried to mimic it somehow. But your right, they use cone drivers and will cross maybe at 200-350hz. I thought that 3.8m distance to my listening position (only need to get good sound at 1-2 spots at my couch) with a CTC distance arround 500mm and 500hz crossover would be not to much of a compromise. I could half the CTC distance of it to arround 250mm. Can you maybe say how much would I gain by that? I would go LR4 again but the directivity doesn't seem to change much.
The Tube is 130mm long and the inner diameter is 250mm, but wont stay so as shown in the picture. I want to try two Ideas. 1: is to do a large roundover on the top and a little one at the bottum of it. As the baffle above it is solid and could be made more hallow. 2: maybe even better would be just a small coupling "tube" to close the sides and make the baffle completly hallow above and under the woofer. This would be also necessary if I shrink the enclosure to match the volume if I decide to go with 250mm CTC distance between woofer and midrange.
One point for the larger 1.2-1.4 ctc spacing was a thread of augerpro about the cea2034 spec and his findings with this larger spacing. Helping with vertical reflections as it mostly dont hurt the horizontal. As I dont want to go the waveguide route and have hard cellings at 2,5m I thought it would be a good choice. I think hifijim and fluid from this forum said similar possitiv things about this uncommun larger spacing.
I just want to say that, so there is not the misconception I only did this large spacing for optical preference and dont care for the sonical quality. The idea for large spacing was there before and than I saw the Orion design.
I now want to try both. Build some test baffles and measure and listen to it. But have the simulations done, now I have time for it.
Whats your thoughts?
I really liked the design of the Orion, so I tried to mimic it somehow. But your right, they use cone drivers and will cross maybe at 200-350hz. I thought that 3.8m distance to my listening position (only need to get good sound at 1-2 spots at my couch) with a CTC distance arround 500mm and 500hz crossover would be not to much of a compromise. I could half the CTC distance of it to arround 250mm. Can you maybe say how much would I gain by that? I would go LR4 again but the directivity doesn't seem to change much.
The Tube is 130mm long and the inner diameter is 250mm, but wont stay so as shown in the picture. I want to try two Ideas. 1: is to do a large roundover on the top and a little one at the bottum of it. As the baffle above it is solid and could be made more hallow. 2: maybe even better would be just a small coupling "tube" to close the sides and make the baffle completly hallow above and under the woofer. This would be also necessary if I shrink the enclosure to match the volume if I decide to go with 250mm CTC distance between woofer and midrange.
One point for the larger 1.2-1.4 ctc spacing was a thread of augerpro about the cea2034 spec and his findings with this larger spacing. Helping with vertical reflections as it mostly dont hurt the horizontal. As I dont want to go the waveguide route and have hard cellings at 2,5m I thought it would be a good choice. I think hifijim and fluid from this forum said similar possitiv things about this uncommun larger spacing.
I just want to say that, so there is not the misconception I only did this large spacing for optical preference and dont care for the sonical quality. The idea for large spacing was there before and than I saw the Orion design.
I now want to try both. Build some test baffles and measure and listen to it. But have the simulations done, now I have time for it.
Whats your thoughts?
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Hallo,
I did another similar design for closer CTC matching.
The new crossover:
I come to the conclusion to go full activ, no hybrid. I have the parts for the Tubelab TSE-II and SSE and I dont want to have one laying around.
LR4 for Woofer and Midrange crossed @ 500hz. 3rd Order for Tweeter crossed @ 2750hz. Tweeter inverted.
The Directivity Index at 560hz peaks with 1.6db. I could get around 50-60mm closer to the midrange, to get the DI to 1.2db, but then it looks wierd and the woofer would be close to the middle of the baffle, what also should be not optimal. So that 0.4db will be a compromise I would take for a better design. 710mm for the tweeter height is also closer to ear height now, because im mostly "chilling" on the couch instead of sitting straight. So thats also a plus for this design.
The tube will open in the baffle top and bottom and just the side walls will be rounded for closing the gap of the beveld front, that will be around 30mm thick at that point. So there should be no standing wave by a zylinder.
A smallish tower speaker with overall height of 815mm.
I will try to put the frequenzy responses in the Diffraction Tool to come closer to a realistic simulation.
Do you guys have some more points I should consider?
I did another similar design for closer CTC matching.
The new crossover:
I come to the conclusion to go full activ, no hybrid. I have the parts for the Tubelab TSE-II and SSE and I dont want to have one laying around.
LR4 for Woofer and Midrange crossed @ 500hz. 3rd Order for Tweeter crossed @ 2750hz. Tweeter inverted.
The Directivity Index at 560hz peaks with 1.6db. I could get around 50-60mm closer to the midrange, to get the DI to 1.2db, but then it looks wierd and the woofer would be close to the middle of the baffle, what also should be not optimal. So that 0.4db will be a compromise I would take for a better design. 710mm for the tweeter height is also closer to ear height now, because im mostly "chilling" on the couch instead of sitting straight. So thats also a plus for this design.
The tube will open in the baffle top and bottom and just the side walls will be rounded for closing the gap of the beveld front, that will be around 30mm thick at that point. So there should be no standing wave by a zylinder.
A smallish tower speaker with overall height of 815mm.
I will try to put the frequenzy responses in the Diffraction Tool to come closer to a realistic simulation.
Do you guys have some more points I should consider?
Attachments
Given your driver choices you should at least make an active decision that you want to incur the time, effort, distraction and risk to go ahead with your (impressive!) design rather than buying something very similar, tried and tested, for about the same price:
MUM 8 speakers
Listening report and discussion
MUM 8 speakers
Listening report and discussion
I agree with max,
It’s a learning curve that can be difficult and frustrating. Your project looks great but I just keep thinking about how long this could take and how much you’ll spend.
That’s just me though, I’m an old fart and just don’t have the energy for these kinds of projects anymore.
I’ll definitely be following along so whatever you decide, best of luck
It’s a learning curve that can be difficult and frustrating. Your project looks great but I just keep thinking about how long this could take and how much you’ll spend.
That’s just me though, I’m an old fart and just don’t have the energy for these kinds of projects anymore.
I’ll definitely be following along so whatever you decide, best of luck
Hallo, thanks for you input. I know the MUM8. I followed the process and I'm on there Discord. But they are not near the same price. With Beryllium and the cheapest color (I dont like) with the 5m cables they about 5750 pfund with shipping but without VAT. So to get them to Germany I would have to pay 7900 € (19% VAT, 0% Zoll but could be another 3-6%). And they are "only" with the PTT8 and are a simple box. Adding the PTT10 would add another 600-1000€.
I have a Excel sheet for my build with anything included, screws, glue, paint, chassis and so on. For the beginning I would reuse my Hypex FA123 Amps from my current speakers. If I inclued the hypex for a more similar price to the MUM8 im at 5.644€ all in, with PTT10s. So Im 2300€ down to some MUM8. If I went with some PTT8 I would be at 5000€ flat.
As im written above, I already have most of the parts and only the woofers are missing. There is no question about should I build DIY or buy off the shelf, thats why I'm on a DIY forum. I know the the time needed and I'm not in a hurry, I just turned 30 and hopefully will have a lot of time to tweek and listen this speakers. I plan with 6-12month for building the speakers and maybe never end to try tweaking the activ crossover. Than I have to build the Tubelab Amps. If the enclosure end of ****, I build a new one. I have a woodshop in my basement as a hobby, so spending time there is no punishment. Just about some years ago I spend a lot of time playing video games, but these times are over and I have freetime to spend on more usefull stuff. I also want to say, that Im not rich. Its also a lot of money for me, but I dont have other expensiv hobbys. I dont drink stuff like scotch or smoke. I'm willing to spend this kind of money, to have a nice time, building something you could hopefully be proud off and do something more usefull than playing video games or watching videos on youtube or netflix.
For the First Floor Reflection. I found a calculator:
Seams good to me? I looked at 2m distance and this is where a big (I dont know the word) couch hocker made out of foam and cord will stand, to rest my legs on. Its 120x120cm and 45cms tall. It should also help to absorb this first reflection.
Is there maybe more to consider?
I have a Excel sheet for my build with anything included, screws, glue, paint, chassis and so on. For the beginning I would reuse my Hypex FA123 Amps from my current speakers. If I inclued the hypex for a more similar price to the MUM8 im at 5.644€ all in, with PTT10s. So Im 2300€ down to some MUM8. If I went with some PTT8 I would be at 5000€ flat.
As im written above, I already have most of the parts and only the woofers are missing. There is no question about should I build DIY or buy off the shelf, thats why I'm on a DIY forum. I know the the time needed and I'm not in a hurry, I just turned 30 and hopefully will have a lot of time to tweek and listen this speakers. I plan with 6-12month for building the speakers and maybe never end to try tweaking the activ crossover. Than I have to build the Tubelab Amps. If the enclosure end of ****, I build a new one. I have a woodshop in my basement as a hobby, so spending time there is no punishment. Just about some years ago I spend a lot of time playing video games, but these times are over and I have freetime to spend on more usefull stuff. I also want to say, that Im not rich. Its also a lot of money for me, but I dont have other expensiv hobbys. I dont drink stuff like scotch or smoke. I'm willing to spend this kind of money, to have a nice time, building something you could hopefully be proud off and do something more usefull than playing video games or watching videos on youtube or netflix.
For the First Floor Reflection. I found a calculator:
Seams good to me? I looked at 2m distance and this is where a big (I dont know the word) couch hocker made out of foam and cord will stand, to rest my legs on. Its 120x120cm and 45cms tall. It should also help to absorb this first reflection.
Is there maybe more to consider?
So you have made an active decision and a good one at that, I also once asked myself whether I would get more out of spending £10k on off the shelf equipment or trying to build myself to a similar level of quality. Some long for the looks that go with eg mcintosh or accuphase equipment, others (you and me) want to say that we built it ourself.
One last question though: have you gone around audio events to listen and narrow down your preferred approach, or are you simply going with the latest and greatest drivers? I don’t think I have heard them, but similar mids/tweeters had so much detail that listening fatigue is a risk. Maybe less so with tube amps though. What would put me off from your approach is the resulting low-ish efficiency. I usually found speakers below ~90db uninvolving, especially at moderate listening levels. Speakers that captivated me had higher efficiency levels, meaning larger woofers and front loaded horns for tweeters and mids if present. These speakers may well have had higher measured distortion than your project, but I listen for pleasure, not for mastering recordings.
One last question though: have you gone around audio events to listen and narrow down your preferred approach, or are you simply going with the latest and greatest drivers? I don’t think I have heard them, but similar mids/tweeters had so much detail that listening fatigue is a risk. Maybe less so with tube amps though. What would put me off from your approach is the resulting low-ish efficiency. I usually found speakers below ~90db uninvolving, especially at moderate listening levels. Speakers that captivated me had higher efficiency levels, meaning larger woofers and front loaded horns for tweeters and mids if present. These speakers may well have had higher measured distortion than your project, but I listen for pleasure, not for mastering recordings.
I would advise to first build a simple enclosure and learn how to design/voice a filter to achieve the sound quality you desire.
The brand of the drivers is of less importance.
Enclosure should be as practical as possible, designed to be moved around easily.
Hallo, I build speaker enclosures before. I build two bookshelfspeakers, my tower and I build a full activ caraudio system with 18. My current speaker is a design by YouTuber "Franks Werkstatt der Lautsprechertechnik", I attached a picture. I build it, as people said: "build somebodys else design, dont try to do your own". And now im unhappy with it. Not because it sounds bad or looks bad, but it was not something I designed my own. I tweek the crossover to my liking and EQ it's Inroomrespons. I'm a DIY guy, not in one department, but in many. I fix and build things my self, if its possible. I will build our kitchen, as soon as our kids are old enough, that they wont dmg it asap. I build a large outdoorkitchen already. I dont need speakers to be moved arround easily. I own my house, they dont have to go anywere soon. But my design is now not very big. 81cm tall, 30cm wide (at its widest point) and 40 cm deep.
So now I have those beautiful speakers, but something is missing, something you cant add to the crossover... I knew it would happen, but I led others convice me. I had some Dali, Monitor Audio and Sonus Faber speakers. I had some KEF and Wharfdhale at home for testing and listen to many other speakers in our local hifistore with friends. In my living room I have some vintage Walsh Ohm F speakers. I love all of them (ok not all, KEFs are not mine). I dont want to build a pair of speakers to say: "I build 60-120k€ speakers for only 6k€" like a lot of those YouTube Videos claim. If they sound like my current speakers, Im fine with it. Even If they cost a lot more.
So I kindly want to ask you, If you can help me with my design, to avoid mistakes you could see in the first place. Not to convince me to do sth other I dont like.
So now I have those beautiful speakers, but something is missing, something you cant add to the crossover... I knew it would happen, but I led others convice me. I had some Dali, Monitor Audio and Sonus Faber speakers. I had some KEF and Wharfdhale at home for testing and listen to many other speakers in our local hifistore with friends. In my living room I have some vintage Walsh Ohm F speakers. I love all of them (ok not all, KEFs are not mine). I dont want to build a pair of speakers to say: "I build 60-120k€ speakers for only 6k€" like a lot of those YouTube Videos claim. If they sound like my current speakers, Im fine with it. Even If they cost a lot more.
So I kindly want to ask you, If you can help me with my design, to avoid mistakes you could see in the first place. Not to convince me to do sth other I dont like.
Attachments
Very interesting project!
I'd suggest to look for alternatives for the miniDSP though. I used a miniDSP during development of the OSMC, but the sound quality was never right. I prefer passive/analogue filters where possible. It it has to be digital, look for something better than miniDSP.
I'd suggest to look for alternatives for the miniDSP though. I used a miniDSP during development of the OSMC, but the sound quality was never right. I prefer passive/analogue filters where possible. It it has to be digital, look for something better than miniDSP.