I use this solder desolder work station and hot air station. Sometimes I used them all in order to pull out some parts. Hot Tweezers are really good for SMD caps and resistors. These stations are still sold at $ 300 each. The first one accept hot tweezers and provide connection for hot air pencil, so that hot air station is maybe not needed. Regardless, I still use Solderwick in older to clean pads.
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Hi ! sorry if i take up again this old but extremely interesting thread.
I am using this one
https://www.amazon.com/YIHUA-Desoldering-Variable-Temperature-Function/dp/B08BK69H2M/ref=sr_1_1?crid=99DXV1AMZRJP&dchild=1&keywords=yihua+948+desoldering+station&qid=1607701292&sprefix=yihua+948%2Caps%2C276&sr=8-1
I have opened it and it seems well built considering the price
Main problems:
1) the tip tends to get clogged
2) more serious the element inside the gun also tends to get clogged by the solder debris sucked inside
i have seen that other guns have just a spring to keep the filter in place instead of this cilinder ?
I wonder when i can find that spring ... i am quite sure it will get clogged much less easily
Moreover it is my impression that the cilinder makes much more resistance to the flow or air Much more.
Again the unit itself looks quite nice.
Thanks for any advice.
I am using this one
https://www.amazon.com/YIHUA-Desoldering-Variable-Temperature-Function/dp/B08BK69H2M/ref=sr_1_1?crid=99DXV1AMZRJP&dchild=1&keywords=yihua+948+desoldering+station&qid=1607701292&sprefix=yihua+948%2Caps%2C276&sr=8-1
I have opened it and it seems well built considering the price
Main problems:
1) the tip tends to get clogged
2) more serious the element inside the gun also tends to get clogged by the solder debris sucked inside
i have seen that other guns have just a spring to keep the filter in place instead of this cilinder ?
I wonder when i can find that spring ... i am quite sure it will get clogged much less easily
Moreover it is my impression that the cilinder makes much more resistance to the flow or air Much more.
Again the unit itself looks quite nice.
Thanks for any advice.
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Hi ! i think i have find a solution ... i will try to make a simple spring myself with some steel wire ... winding it around a cilinder of the ID of the transparent cylinder ... i am quite optimistic that it could work just fine
Like the differente model in the attached pic
The element indicated in post 27 cloggs too easily and too frequently
For the rest a very decent unit indeed ... always considering that it is entry level
Like the differente model in the attached pic
The element indicated in post 27 cloggs too easily and too frequently
For the rest a very decent unit indeed ... always considering that it is entry level
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Some PCBs have are very poorly manufactured using very low quality glue for copper laminates which often result in detached tracks while desoldering. I have witnessed this on highly reputable audio brands. It is clear, there is an increasing number of manufacturers who do not like their products being repaired and reused. Finding glued connectors and resin filled toroidal transformers should be a clear message. The quality of PCB inter-connectors is a further indication whether a manufacturer likes their products repaired.
Hi ! thanks a lot for the very valuable advice. If i am not wrong in the old days the equipment used to come with the service manual/schematic included in the box ? i have never seen a newer product coming with this kind of information. Just a instruction manual ... almost if a instruction manual is needed for a power amp
Anyway ... a very good desoldering station should cope with any situation even the most challenging
I am optimistic for the one i have. I think i have identified a problem in the gun ... an element that can easily get clogged by the sucked alloy.
I have to make a spring with some steel wire.
Also i have been advised that adding some eutectic solder like the wonderful 62/36/2 i normally use can help ?
I have hopes.
Two more tricks: Make a cutout at the side of the plastic sucker tip for the soldering iron tip to stay on the pad while sucking. No chance to cool down between heating and sucking and easier than coming from both sides of the PCB.
And adding fresh bismuth solder to lower the melting point further for heavy copper plane connected holes. Works like 60/40 but eutectic point is 137C not 183C.
Anyone tried adding Gallium/Indium? Desoldering with the heat from your fingers...
And adding fresh bismuth solder to lower the melting point further for heavy copper plane connected holes. Works like 60/40 but eutectic point is 137C not 183C.
Anyone tried adding Gallium/Indium? Desoldering with the heat from your fingers...
Hi ! thanks for the kind advice even if it sounds too much high tech for me
I have found a very good alloy in this 62/36/2 i have always used.
Unfortunately there is lead in it. But i like the very low melting T
The parts stick very easily ... it seems like a glue
I am having some clogging issue inside the desoldering gun ... i am working on it.
Often traces on boards are very very thin and delicate ... even to much for me. I understand that a line signal is of a few mA ... but some traces are thin like a hair ...
I should look at desoldering station for smd maybe ?
Thanks again
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I was a profession Tech for 40years now retired.
I use Stannol 60/40 at home.
I hate the de-soldering guns always used solder wick or a manual pump. We had Hakko and Metcal rework stations but neither of us techs used the de-soldering gun we both used wick mostly for through hole. For SMD a heatgun with the correct nozzle for IC's or tweeters for caps/resistors etc.
In the absence of pad repair kit I use 5min Araldite to glue the pad down, cover the pad with a bit of mylar PCB bag as the epoxy won't stick to it and clamp it.
Hope this helps
I use Stannol 60/40 at home.
I hate the de-soldering guns always used solder wick or a manual pump. We had Hakko and Metcal rework stations but neither of us techs used the de-soldering gun we both used wick mostly for through hole. For SMD a heatgun with the correct nozzle for IC's or tweeters for caps/resistors etc.
In the absence of pad repair kit I use 5min Araldite to glue the pad down, cover the pad with a bit of mylar PCB bag as the epoxy won't stick to it and clamp it.
Hope this helps
Hi ! thanks a lot for the very valuable advice. Problem with solder wick is that lasts very little. After some desoldering is soaked with alloy ...
On principle desoldering guns should work. The construction of the units is very variable. The cheaper ones have some issues. Maybe with some skills they can be improved.
But some electronics look designed to make the maintanance work a pain.
I understand that in the old days the audio equipment used to be sold with schematics and instructions for maintenance. No more now.
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