Yes, but don't use the default EQ. Use "Graphic Equalizer" (foo_dsp_xgeg) or any of the available VST EQ's.
Bob
We were probably talking about the same thing mentioned in post 228 http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/47403-cyburgs-needle-tangband-w3-871s-23.html#post1096666
Anyways I decided to buy the notch filter components because if anything I have read so far about these speakers is true, I will have friends who will want to buy these off me
depends if you go for high quality components or not
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Nice components chylld
Is 12mm fiberboard a good material to make the needles out of? I mean the "low density" brother of mdf.
Can't find mdf here, only fiberboard and plywood which is expensive..
To be extra clear the stuff I mean is the same as the needles were made out of in this review HiFiForum.nu - Mätning Lancetta&Needle
I'll probably finish them with wallpaper pasted on them. Looks good and is cheap and easy (hopefully).
Thanks, Skiivari
Is 12mm fiberboard a good material to make the needles out of? I mean the "low density" brother of mdf.
Can't find mdf here, only fiberboard and plywood which is expensive..
To be extra clear the stuff I mean is the same as the needles were made out of in this review HiFiForum.nu - Mätning Lancetta&Needle
I'll probably finish them with wallpaper pasted on them. Looks good and is cheap and easy (hopefully).
Thanks, Skiivari
I used 16mm for the front and back only, as per the original design. You could probably get away with 12mm all-round though
MDF Sizes
The original drawing is on the first page;
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/47403-cyburgs-needle-tangband-w3-871s.html
It calls for the base and the top to be made from 16mm MDF all the rest can be 12mm. The top does need to be stronger, I just used two layers of 12mm here and made a base in the same way but slightly larger to give a bigger footprint.
Jim
The original drawing is on the first page;
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/47403-cyburgs-needle-tangband-w3-871s.html
It calls for the base and the top to be made from 16mm MDF all the rest can be 12mm. The top does need to be stronger, I just used two layers of 12mm here and made a base in the same way but slightly larger to give a bigger footprint.
Jim
I guess it is strong enough if I go by the original design then. Just that my father was pretty sure it "wouldn't be strong enough" etc.. But he's never built speakers either. I guess 12mm is fine when the longest unsupported part about 15cm
Another thing he said was that the glue wouldn't hold it together at all, it would just fall apart. I've never glued MDF before but could you guys reassure me that I don't need screws?
Another thing he said was that the glue wouldn't hold it together at all, it would just fall apart. I've never glued MDF before but could you guys reassure me that I don't need screws?
I guess it is strong enough if I go by the original design then. Just that my father was pretty sure it "wouldn't be strong enough" etc.. But he's never built speakers either. I guess 12mm is fine when the longest unsupported part about 15cm
Another thing he said was that the glue wouldn't hold it together at all, it would just fall apart. I've never glued MDF before but could you guys reassure me that I don't need screws?
It'll be more than strong enough!! I have expensive commercial speakers made from 12mm particleboard and they sound awesome. They do have some braces in the middle though, but think about the Needle's design - there's a brace running all the way down the middle!!
As doubtingthomas says, good wood glue will be more than enough to hold it together. I tested this one, glued 2 pieces together and then smashed it until it broke - it broke next to the glue join, not on the join itself
Just make sure all your cuts are straight so there's good contact and you'll be fine.
This enclosure doesn't get pressurized the same way an Acoustic Suspension or Bass Reflex box would so the 12mm is fine. You might split the MDF if you try to screw it . It is too thin for that I think. Mine worked fine. I do use an 18 ga. air nailer though most of the time for box assembly.
i have lurked this forum for quite a few months now and finally but a pair of needles. The W3-881si was a steal from PE and to my humble ears sound absolutely amazing. The bass from a 3" speaker [in the right enclosure] is unlike anything i have ever heard in car or home audio. Thank you Berndt for this design. My ears have never been happier!
Hello Amozos, The easiest amp to makeand definately one of the best sounding is a GainClone. I have made two one with just the caps on the chip and one with a 'proper' power supply, the latter sounds much better to my ears.
Here's a pic of it;
Best wishes - Jim
Here's a pic of it;
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Best wishes - Jim
Hey all! I'm hoping you all can give me a little help. I just picked up four of the TB W3-881SI from PE on the buyout. They have very little xmax and was hoping I could possibly adapt this design to work with two of these drivers in one enclosure. Will it work in this enclosure or not really? I was thinking of implementing a cap bypass like what's explained here:http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=83025.msg802021#msg802021 what do you all think? Can we make it work??
Thanks!
Scott
Thanks!
Scott
Hey Scott, I think you'd be better off taking the path that I did and utilize the TABAQ design. Easier construction and great response. I simply doubled the length of the enclosure and turned them into bi-poles with 4 Tang Band 3" drivers I had laying around. Sounded very impressive and they had a low end that you would not expect from those 3" drivers.