Dave I agree with Coolmeadow. 1/4 inch would be enough for the dados.
I built a sealed sub like this - clamps are far better than screws.
My sub is in the system pictures area here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/207217-system-pictures-description-2.html
I recommend using urethane glue as it will expand and fill the joints. It's a bit messy so use gloves and plastic on the benchtop. Use glue on one side, and dampen the other and clamp. It takes about 45 minutes to cure. Regular woodworking glue is not so great with MDF as MDF is very porous and you can get dry joints.
I recommend making the walls even thicker if you can. Good luck!
I built a sealed sub like this - clamps are far better than screws.
My sub is in the system pictures area here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/207217-system-pictures-description-2.html
I recommend using urethane glue as it will expand and fill the joints. It's a bit messy so use gloves and plastic on the benchtop. Use glue on one side, and dampen the other and clamp. It takes about 45 minutes to cure. Regular woodworking glue is not so great with MDF as MDF is very porous and you can get dry joints.
I recommend making the walls even thicker if you can. Good luck!
Hey all,
I have taken the advise of all you experts and I have finnished my second box using dado's and rabbit joints for bracing and sides.
One question, considering the amount of glue and clampping, do I need to run a bead of silicon around the inside of the box. Or will the woodglue be fine as it is?
I have taken the advise of all you experts and I have finnished my second box using dado's and rabbit joints for bracing and sides.
One question, considering the amount of glue and clampping, do I need to run a bead of silicon around the inside of the box. Or will the woodglue be fine as it is?
Hi Cal.
After many frustrating attemps to gets cuts uniform and the same I bit the bullet and bought these to make boxes from now on. So I am pretty confident that the cuts are precise. But, I can't be 100% sure that all the joints were perfectly clamped, that is why I was concerned.
A Delta 36-L552LVC 5 HP 3PH 10" UNISAW.
And this,
INCRA 52" TS-LS Table Saw Fence
And this for the dado and rabbit joints,
INCRA LS Positioner Super System
After many frustrating attemps to gets cuts uniform and the same I bit the bullet and bought these to make boxes from now on. So I am pretty confident that the cuts are precise. But, I can't be 100% sure that all the joints were perfectly clamped, that is why I was concerned.
A Delta 36-L552LVC 5 HP 3PH 10" UNISAW.
And this,
INCRA 52" TS-LS Table Saw Fence
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
And this for the dado and rabbit joints,
INCRA LS Positioner Super System
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Good cuts and appropriate amounts of glue will reward you with a small bead of dried glue left in the insides corners of the box, but the seal should be in the joint itself. With such high power drivers you really need the mechanical performance of a complete glue joint everywhere. "Sealant" can't help that, although you might get by.
If the cuts were made up to the performance of those tools after proper adjustment and appropriate amounts of glue were used, I wouldn't worry about problems with the clamping. With dadoes and rabbets, the glue should take up whatever slop was left, unless you ran the tools blindfolded or something. 
WOW, isn't that kind of like buying a Lexus to go get a dozen eggs from the store? Nice equip, and I'm a woodworker with my share of stuff including the Incra router fence you got, but I'm thinking your frustration cost you a bundle. Hope you have some furniture or a couple sets of kitchen cabinets to build in your future. You've definitely got the a good start on the equipment needed to build just about anything you want! Enjoy your new toys, er tools!! Jim.
Nice equip, and I'm a woodworker with my share of stuff including the Incra router fence you got, but I'm thinking your frustration cost you a bundle. Hope you have some furniture or a couple sets of kitchen cabinets to build in your future. You've definitely got the a good start on the equipment needed to build just about anything you want! Enjoy your new toys, er tools!! Jim.
Aw crap, I'm moving to Daves place
Ya no ****.
Caulking be damned. It has no place here.
That is a hard question to answer. The joints are very solid, I have one place though, where there is a very small gap(Maybe 0.1mm) on a joint in one of the corners. Its on the outside of the box and I can't see if it was just a bit of glue missing on the outside of the join. Being that it is a rabbit joint, iy could possibly be ok as there is the inside surface of the rabbit joint that should have glued correctly. I am just paranoid.If the cuts were made up to the performance of those tools after proper adjustment and appropriate amounts of glue were used, I wouldn't worry about problems with the clamping. With dadoes and rabbets, the glue should take up whatever slop was left, unless you ran the tools blindfolded or something.
LOL, thanks Dan! I think next time will get you to design the box though, mine was not best one. Although I am confident it will do the job. Very , very well braced.Aw crap, I'm moving to Daves place
How do you like your fence? I absolutely love the repeat-ability of it. You can always go back and expect to make the same cut twice even after moveing the fence for other cuts.WOW, isn't that kind of like buying a Lexus to go get a dozen eggs from the store?
Although I have never made a sub box or anything substantional in size. Many years ago I did like to make anything I could out of wood. I just have never had the chance to do much joinery. With this setup, I hope to make some furniture. I am currently trying my hand at making a simple jewlery box and hopefully it will turn out something like this.
I have completed the wood hinges that I am using for it. It took me a few tries, I have them sorted now.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Ya no ****.
Caulking be damned. It has no place here.
LOL, I am pretty sure I am ok. I just can't be 100% certain that everything was done perfectly. One thing I did notice was that over clamping MDF compresses the wood and you can get variances in the length of the section, which can make you have to go back and trim a small fraction off a cut that was originally the same cut size as the clamped piece.
Thanks Dave,
I think you need the other speakon, the one toward the outside of the amp is marked as having both channels, and the bridged wiring config above the binding posts should get you squared away.
Thanks Dave,
I think you need the other speakon, the one toward the outside of the amp is marked as having both channels, and the bridged wiring config above the binding posts should get you squared away.
Are you taking about the FR 14000 amp from AVS thread? Does that amp even need to to be bridged to run one of these subs?
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Yes the outer speakon appears to have the pins for both channels.
I also just looked in your build for the first time, now I really want to come over. I'll sleep where the fishes - used to be I'll bring my BMC, we can ride.
I'd do that in a minute if I could find a way to support myself over there
I also just looked in your build for the first time, now I really want to come over. I'll sleep where the fishes - used to be
I'll bring my BMC, we can ride. I'd do that in a minute if I could find a way to support myself over there
Yes the outer speakon appears to have the pins for both channels.
I also just looked in your build for the first time, now I really want to come over. I'll sleep where the fishes - used to be
I'd do that in a minute if I could find a way to support myself over there
Dan, anytime you need a place to crash in South Osaka, give me a buzz.
Thanks for the advise on the AMP too.
I haven't used mine for joinery yet, except to try some dovetails. It is a system that will take some practice on some scrap wood to master, but will yield some excellent results, just like the pictures above. The wooden hinges will be a plus!
How are you going to finish your sub? If the space in the outside joint will interfere with the finish, do what I do....use a little Bondo. Bonds great to wood, dries very quickly, and sands easily and to a smooth finish. I'm building an assembly table right now. Didn't come out as flat as I wanted, so I'm using Bondo to get it where it needs to be. Then I'll glue on some high pressure laminate. My first sub will be the first thing I put together on it, then it's on to building cabinets for the built-ins on either side of the fireplace.
Reading back through the thread, I don't think I every replied...Stu didn't find anything on the confirmat screws. But since you ordered pipe clamps from Rockler, if you ever need the screws you can get them and the drill bit from that source. Jim.
How are you going to finish your sub? If the space in the outside joint will interfere with the finish, do what I do....use a little Bondo. Bonds great to wood, dries very quickly, and sands easily and to a smooth finish. I'm building an assembly table right now. Didn't come out as flat as I wanted, so I'm using Bondo to get it where it needs to be. Then I'll glue on some high pressure laminate. My first sub will be the first thing I put together on it, then it's on to building cabinets for the built-ins on either side of the fireplace.
Reading back through the thread, I don't think I every replied...Stu didn't find anything on the confirmat screws. But since you ordered pipe clamps from Rockler, if you ever need the screws you can get them and the drill bit from that source. Jim.
Common mistake. Some think the tighter you clamp the better the joint so they crank the snot out of it. Nice and snug is all it takes.
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