Cone treatment

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gedlee said:


There isn't some jerk in the control room trying to "sweaten the sound" to his own taste.

I have recorded piano very dry and played it back for the pianist and he was amazed. He didn't realize how all that "artificial" stuff that was being added was making the reproduction less realistic. It may make a poor system sound better, but it makes a good system sound worse.

I agree. I can't stand when my recordings get all sweaty. I wish those guys would just leave the CD dry and keep their perspiration away from my music!
 
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badman said:


I can't stand when my recordings get all sweaty.


George Michael comes to mind
Its sugar fake sound, but nonetheless sounds a bit impressive

I just saw a TV show with Kylie, and she sure could use some of George Michaels sound, boy did she sound awful

btw, a while ago I heard a live TV transmitted concert from a brand new concert hall (danish TV)
Oh boy, it was easy to hear even through a cheap digital receiver that the sound was something very unusual
It was significant that ALL the performers sounded better than ever heard
It was clearly heard that they ALL delivered top performance
On other venues in other concert halls later on, none of the bands sounded that impressive
When I play an instrument myself, in one room it sounds close to false, and in another room much more in tune
Food fore thoughts
 
John_E_Janowitz said:
We use a specifically formulated PVA coating on the Lambda cones that comes from CP Moyen. John

I contacted CP Moyen. Very helpful people. Is your formulation similar to VS 6020? Did you consider VS 464 or VS 1291A? Any reason you picked the PVA based one over the other two (polyvinyl chloride copolymer and vinyl emulsion)?
 
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I've been modifying drivers for over 30 years, i haven't run into many that weren't better afterwards.

Is it safe to say that applying a single thin coat to any paper coned driver will not make things worse? I'd like to think that cone breakup could be reduced and any movable resonances would be pushed up. What else would I expect to happen?
 
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Is it safe to say that applying a single thin coat to any paper coned driver will not make things worse? I'd like to think that cone breakup could be reduced and any movable resonances would be pushed up. What else would I expect to happen?

You have to be careful of what you coat with.

With appropriate application you will also reduce cone self-noise (paper fibres on the surface rubbing together) and an increase in the opacity of the cone to time-smeared signal coming back thru the cone.

dave
 
I was thinking of coating a paper cone subwoofer to lower Fs

The stock Fs is 32Hz and I'd like to drop it down to 29 Hz or so, not a huge change but one none the less.

Would a coating drop the Fs down with measurable results or by the time I get it down to 29 Hz, it would kill the sensitivity.

I would like the 10 inch to drop in Fs and increase the cone stiffness to be used in a horn. I won't die if it can't happen--just curious and it would be a nice improvement.
 
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]
The stock Fs is 32Hz and I'd like to drop it down to 29 Hz or so, not a huge change but one none the less.

Would a coating drop the Fs down with measurable results or by the time I get it down to 29 Hz, it would kill the sensitivity.

Increase mass, decrease sensitivity. That is the physics.

I've used puzzle coat for this purpose for a looong time.

If you are measuring, to get an accurate picture of how much Fs has dropped, temp, humidity & pressure need to be the same.

dave
 
Thanks Dave,

I measured the Fs at standard room temp with 40 to 60% humidity but will measure again before and after. At the base of the cone next to the spider is some form of coating at the narrow part of the cone. It extends about 35mm up then stops. I am assuming it is to strengthen the cone at the weak point.

At least I know the cone will suck up puzzle coat and since that has a long history behind it, figure a thin coating could not screw it up to bad. If I can get a Fs drop a Hz or two--the cone is stronger/stiffer for horn duty and I don't lose much sensitivity...I'll take it.

It will be crossed at 100Hz or lower so for sub bass duty, it should be worth the experience. For the crazy stuff, that is what Planet10 does. I don't plan on taking glue to a cone that produces vocals although clear finger nail polish will fit small rips in cones. My Tangband 3" FR came out perfectly with just a little dab.
 
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how much you need depends on weight of cone to begin with
if its a heavy cone with 30hz Fs, it means relatively stiff surround, and will need quite some exstra weight to make a real difference
and you will have to consider both Xmax and magnet force
maybe more important, altering Qts
 
There was a member not too many years ago that had the ability to scan a moving cone and map the breakup modes. He would then develop a pattern to apply on the cone with Gem Tack glue to kill the worst offenders. I haven't run across him for a while, and his services weren't cheap(I think he did a couple for the community though) but it was much more tailored to the driver than a blanket approach. This ringing any bells?
 
I just do not understand why people want to make or modify drivers. When very good ones can be obtained at reasonable prices, whats to be gained? The system is where the skill is, not the drivers.

:no:

I don't think there exists something that I would call a "good speaker" yet - all speakers existing today are a poor approximation, no?

So far, all speakers are a collection of comprimises. If you can't afford to produce your own drivers entirely from scratch, then what option do you have other than attempting modification of existing drivers?

:cheers:

Gedlee's speakers do not use tweeters, do they? Use tweeter, and you will find out that you need to modify the waveguide.

Can you find a speaker that will fool listeners into believing an acoustic instrument is actually there playing in the room?

Why not? Can't you?

Anyone know of good treatment to dampen the breakup of a cheap pro woofer?

Many cheap pro woofers are above 90dB full-rangers, that's why the breakups are horrible. That's the manufacturer decision to make the driver more "useful", or more market-friendly. Once I also had the need to dampen the breakup on my 12" pro-driver with Aquaproof (this is a product to seal the roof). But before I did that, I check my other woofers. My 10" and even 8" woofers were actually better at frequencies I was aiming for (can go lower than my 12" pro-driver).
 
frugal-phile™
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There was a member not too many years ago that had the ability to scan a moving cone and map the breakup modes. He would then develop a pattern to apply on the cone with Gem Tack glue to kill the worst offenders. I haven't run across him for a while, and his services weren't cheap(I think he did a couple for the community though) but it was much more tailored to the driver than a blanket approach. This ringing any bells?

Mark MacKenzie was offering professional services for flattening drivers, but i think it was Ron Clark with the laser inferometer at work (he still owes me a pair of FE166).

dave
 
At risk of sounding repetitive or redundant, Dr. Geddes is right about this. Industrial processes will likely yield more consistent results than the average DIYer is capable of and good cones are not that costly, but if you have a speaker you want to improve it can well be done. I posted many measurements/methods of such changes in a fairly compact manner in this thread: Hawthorne Audio • View topic - Cone Damping--who's done it? Hey D, yes I can ;)

Dan
 
Many paper cones come with a coating from the manufacturer.

The question is in which frequency range the cone
will be used. If it is used in the pistonic range solely,
a dampening coat is quite useless and you will have
to deal with mass increase, increased Q and reduced
efficiency.

If the cone is used above its pistonic range of operation,
a dampening coat may increase quality measurably and
audibly, justifying the increased mass.

It is an interesting option for many woofers used
in a typical 2way and also for midrangers. As always, the
thickness of the coat should not be overdone and you
may need more than one try, to get it right for a certain
driver. Depending on quality of paper and overall design
- suspension etc. - there may be paper cones which are
hard to improve using a coat.
 
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