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Commercial Gainclone kit- building instructions

Re: Black Gate Capacitors!

lanchile07 said:
mubeen, if I may contribute in something.I used the "premium parts" too, but I was like you.I was trying to get the most of these amps.so I decided to change the capacitors from Panasonic capacitors 1500uf (premium kit) to "Black Gate" capacitors 1000uf 50v.
The result was a huge improvement!,of course these caps cost a lot,but it was worthy all the way!.Some people do not hear a difference ,but I did an A/B test with Black Gate capacitors and they are the BIG improvement that you are looking for. Remember to let the capacitors "run" for at least a month or so.
Good Luck buddy!;)


I think so.
Black Gate is my choice.
 
Hi Peter,

A quick question. I've been running my amp in "test mode" for about a week now, meaning I have no lid on the chassis and I'm still waiting on heat sinks to complete the box. I've been operating the unit without heat-sinks but in good ventilation, and it works but if i turn the volume up too high, one or both of the channels cuts out completely. Is this clipping, or overheating? There's no distortion, just a cut-out that returns to normal after a few seconds, usually when I pull back on the volume a few clicks. Will heat sinks resolve this or is this the sharp clipping that I saw on the transformer voltages diagram when reaching a certain volume?

Many thanks
Lucas
 
Peter,

Although I'm entirely happy with my current build, I'm curious to know what effects other capacitors might yield. For example, would Elna 1,000uf / 50v Silmics work in place of the Panasonic 1,500uf caps? Are there other substitutions you'd recommend trying? What value ranges are compatible (uf and v)? Or should I leave well-enough alone? (All I need is the slightest reason to order another kit, heh). Thanks!

David Barnett
SW Florida
 
ppapcro said:
What was the example you referred to? It didn't show up.

Here it is: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=76609&highlight=


Vautrin said:
Although I'm entirely happy with my current build, I'm curious to know what effects other capacitors might yield. For example, would Elna 1,000uf / 50v Silmics work in place of the Panasonic 1,500uf caps? Are there other substitutions you'd recommend trying? What value ranges are compatible (uf and v)? Or should I leave well-enough alone? (All I need is the slightest reason to order another kit, heh). Thanks!
Florida

I didn't try Silmics with those amps, and Panasonic FCs were the second choice after BGs:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=574431#post574431

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=581230#post581230
 
I've just finished preliminary project with Peter's boards.Everything is still on wooden board with no chassis.I've built dual mono bi-amp amplifier.On bass there's 2200uF Pana FC,on treble 100uF BG standard.I have a couple of questions.

About grounding.Do I have to connect every ground point on boards(SG,PG,OG,CHG...) in one point?I'm trying to built separate PS.

About pot.When I first tried amp with only two boards(simple stereo) 50k pot was ok.But now when i have two boards in parallel(on each channel) it's seems to much.I need to turn pot for about 70% to be very loud.I can turn it to 100% and listen(very,very loud),but I don't think that's 4x55W.For instance I've listened my other amp rated 45W at 8 ohms with 50k pot too,but I can't listen after 70% pot turn.It's too loud for me.What should I do?

Sorry if my English is not so good :)
 
Hi,
is one channel of the 50k pot feeding two parallel amplifiers?
What are the input filter values on each of the amplifiers?
i.e. both the low pass filter and the high pass filter.

Since they are Peter's chipamp implementation, can we assume there is no smoothing in the PSU? It's all done by the 2200uF & 100uF caps on the amp PCB.
 
kele1975 said:
I've just finished preliminary project with Peter's boards.Everything is still on wooden board with no chassis.I've built dual mono bi-amp amplifier.On bass there's 2200uF Pana FC,on treble 100uF BG standard.I have a couple of questions.

About grounding.Do I have to connect every ground point on boards(SG,PG,OG,CHG...) in one point?I'm trying to built separate PS.

About pot.When I first tried amp with only two boards(simple stereo) 50k pot was ok.But now when i have two boards in parallel(on each channel) it's seems to much.I need to turn pot for about 70% to be very loud.I can turn it to 100% and listen(very,very loud),but I don't think that's 4x55W.For instance I've listened my other amp rated 45W at 8 ohms with 50k pot too,but I can't listen after 70% pot turn.It's too loud for me.What should I do?

Sorry if my English is not so good :)

I assume it's only bi-amping, not active filtering?

The input impedance of the amp is set by R2=22k . If you connect two channels in parallel those resistors are also in parallel with combined impedance of 11K and that interacts with your pot in a different way than a single 22k; that's why different position on a volume for a given output level. However, as long as you have enough range, I wouldn't worry about that.

It's a common mistake that people asociate power output with position of a volume knob, it has nothing to do with it though. A potentiometer is simply an attenuator that adjust signal level fed to the amp, it does not affect the power of the amp.

Don't connect all grounds together. SG is connected with OG already on the board, CHG is optional ground point and normally does not need to ber used at all. If building separate PS (for each channel) simply connect boards as in picture here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1508956#post1508956

If using common supply for two channels, use grounding method explained here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1518369#post1518369
 
Thank you very much!
That was very fast reply.

Yes I'm using it in bi-amp configuration.I do realize that pot don't have anything with power of amp,but does it have anything with impurity of signal,for example between 10k and 50k pot?If I choose 10k,will it be too low value?

I don't follow first link.Amp boards are detached from rect boards.I want to build separate PS but in one box for both channels.That means two chassis.One for PS and another for amp.Connected with 4way XLR's.

Another thing,I'm using 25V toroids,but in real life that's 26V,so in finals I have 36V+36V on boards.Chips are running on cca 65-68 degrees Celsius.Is that to much?Will the voltage be lower if I don't use 10uF caps?
 
So you have 11K combined input shunt resistance, and by adding 50K pot it is still approx 8.5K. When you combine 11k with 10K pot, the impedance becomes approx 5K. It's up to your source if it can drive it, but 10K pot would be probably better.

When having PS in a separate box use the grounding method from a second link, you can check those pics for more info, as this is exactly what I do in Patek: http://www.audiosector.com/chassis_patek2_amp.shtml

The chips should not heat up that much, if they do, your heatsinks are probably not big enough (36V rails are perfectly fine)
 
Colin said:
For UK Gaincloners, this Airlink transformer is a good substitute for the 300VA Piltron. Kensai (I believe) recommended Airlink on another thread. I received my Airlink toroid earlier this week and it seems a very solid unit. One offs are about £32 including delivery.

Hi colin,

I about to start my first project. For my first project i am going to be using my current speakers that came with my Pioneer system. They are 6 Ohm. What secondary winding to you advise? and would the transformer you have detailed above be suitable?

Thanks

Dan