And due to that the small enclosure is being refurbed for the A10p.
In the designer's defense:
It was very confusing as 1st as the box in hand was not any of the drawings i had. Reverse engineering it, it amazed me how much a small change in the specified angles could change the box. It was quite mistuned for the A12p, hopefully we'll get it right for the A10p.
Even built to spec (and that spec is under revision, they are unlikely as good as Pensil. Personally i prefer A10p. I know Scott prefers A12p, they are both very good.
dave
First batch of Alpair 10p Pensils. Straight off the machine. (The beautiful face of birch ply is lining the interior, with the ugly face out. Will be switched for the first real batch)
Still need to work out some triangular blocks for the removable backs. And finalise the terminal entry.
Chamfers to be done with hand router afterwards.
Still need to work out some triangular blocks for the removable backs. And finalise the terminal entry.
Chamfers to be done with hand router afterwards.
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Every craftsman has his own approach and I am not really questioning yours, but....
I find it interesting that you brace the short sides, but do not show any bracing for the long sides. I procedure is to use 24mm baffles and no fore-aft bracing. I then use stiffeners on the side panels.
Just saying.
Bob
I find it interesting that you brace the short sides, but do not show any bracing for the long sides. I procedure is to use 24mm baffles and no fore-aft bracing. I then use stiffeners on the side panels.
Just saying.
Bob
A very good start.
Some questions/observations:
Should the vent be so high up from the base?
Is the vent wide enough?
Enough wood supporting behind the driver fixing points?
Brace appears too deep - pushing out the back (although it needs a small amount of extra depth to ensure contact and some pressure)
Are the plans to have veneer options?
Groove joints for front/top/back/base are stronger and resistant to expansive air pressure, but may be more difficult to assemble (customer would need to load and modify stuffing from the side)
Desire to have pre-drilled holes under the base for d-nuts for spikes?
Andrew
Some questions/observations:
Should the vent be so high up from the base?
Is the vent wide enough?
Enough wood supporting behind the driver fixing points?
Brace appears too deep - pushing out the back (although it needs a small amount of extra depth to ensure contact and some pressure)
Are the plans to have veneer options?
Groove joints for front/top/back/base are stronger and resistant to expansive air pressure, but may be more difficult to assemble (customer would need to load and modify stuffing from the side)
Desire to have pre-drilled holes under the base for d-nuts for spikes?
Andrew
Hi Bob,
after looking at your 10p.1 and 10.3 (metal) measurements in a BR, I have to ask you which one you prefer.
The 10p.1 seems to measure not as well behaved especially at 600 Hz and also in the highs. Does that reflect in the sound?
Thanks
August
(almost buying a set of 10p ..)
The A10P does have something happening around 600Hz. It shows in the FR plot and has a serious spike in distortion right there. The A10P has a different flavor from the A10M. I prefer the A10M for instrumental music (18th/19th century orchestral -- I don't do much of anything from this century), but the A10P is often better with female vocals. Unfortunately, to make a realistic choice, you have to have both side-by-side.
Bob
Bob
FHxL
Just slotted together, ply was half a mm out, so a few little things to account for.
Looking pretty sexy with the birch face on all exterior faces. (and not knotty ply)
Have engineered in a rebated 100mm hole on the back with a 8mm ply insert two 8mm holes, so its easy to install terminals, or jigsaw out the hole if you need it bigger or simply veneer over it. 100mm should give a bit of access to adjust stuffing. Positioned at the top for the shortest path, can be in horizontal or vertical position for which ever way you like your terminals
Just slotted together, ply was half a mm out, so a few little things to account for.
Looking pretty sexy with the birch face on all exterior faces. (and not knotty ply)
Have engineered in a rebated 100mm hole on the back with a 8mm ply insert two 8mm holes, so its easy to install terminals, or jigsaw out the hole if you need it bigger or simply veneer over it. 100mm should give a bit of access to adjust stuffing. Positioned at the top for the shortest path, can be in horizontal or vertical position for which ever way you like your terminals
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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I am going to purchase a 5* cutter to do most of the angled cuts. This will avoid the recent human error of cutting the wrong way on the wrong side of the line!
@ Andrew, the bracing for the Pensil sits in a groove in the back panel, for added strength and location. The port is the right dimensions, but is somehow too high. I think the wood is just about enough to grip the driver. Perhaps a extra piece should be added to the files that would locate over driver cutout, just worried that an extra 18mm even with chamfers may affect performance. The grooves should help construction, as there is only one way it can go together and will nest nicely with lots of glue area.
It has been designed so the visible end grain ply is halved for the added strength but aesthetics too. But yes, these will be made to order, probably in batches of two. We could make them in veneered board, (haven't yet found nice veneered birch ply). But might be easier to over veneer them after, as you won't have edg banding to do. Anyone want any different materials, solid Corian FHxL???
The P10p kit is designed to have a removable back. I have found some really nice Hafele expanding brass inserts that would take threaded bolts rather than scews, so the backs can be taken on and off as much as you like to adjust stuffing. The picture from the side was just to illustrate how it looks in Xray mode.
I don't think we can do the T nuts, unless they go all the way through (as its machining the rebate for the baffle from the inside face), and may be more of a pain to fill them if not needed. Perhaps a sexy outrigger stand could be designed and sold as an add on.
I sadly cannot take credit for the rather good nesting, thought some of you might like the picture!
@ Andrew, the bracing for the Pensil sits in a groove in the back panel, for added strength and location. The port is the right dimensions, but is somehow too high. I think the wood is just about enough to grip the driver. Perhaps a extra piece should be added to the files that would locate over driver cutout, just worried that an extra 18mm even with chamfers may affect performance. The grooves should help construction, as there is only one way it can go together and will nest nicely with lots of glue area.
It has been designed so the visible end grain ply is halved for the added strength but aesthetics too. But yes, these will be made to order, probably in batches of two. We could make them in veneered board, (haven't yet found nice veneered birch ply). But might be easier to over veneer them after, as you won't have edg banding to do. Anyone want any different materials, solid Corian FHxL???
The P10p kit is designed to have a removable back. I have found some really nice Hafele expanding brass inserts that would take threaded bolts rather than scews, so the backs can be taken on and off as much as you like to adjust stuffing. The picture from the side was just to illustrate how it looks in Xray mode.
I don't think we can do the T nuts, unless they go all the way through (as its machining the rebate for the baffle from the inside face), and may be more of a pain to fill them if not needed. Perhaps a sexy outrigger stand could be designed and sold as an add on.
I sadly cannot take credit for the rather good nesting, thought some of you might like the picture!
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