Clean crossovers

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This is the first I have heard of a fake Nak EC-200 Crossover. I remember Kenhwood (an H was inserted, I guess for copyright reasons) , but never a Nak. I have 11 of the EC-200 crossovers in right now from various places. Bought my first one in 86. They work great on home audio too. I have never seen a fake, or heard of one. Any pics would be appreciated of the fake Nak. Thanks for the pics of the LP crossover too. Great upgrade!
 
tomtomjr said:
This is the first I have heard of a fake Nak EC-200 Crossover. I remember Kenhwood (an H was inserted, I guess for copyright reasons) , but never a Nak. I have 11 of the EC-200 crossovers in right now from various places. Bought my first one in 86. They work great on home audio too. I have never seen a fake, or heard of one. Any pics would be appreciated of the fake Nak. Thanks for the pics of the LP crossover too. Great upgrade!


Kenhwood, eh? I remember Kingwood being in the same font and retail box colors. I think they're still around.
 
theAnonymous1 said:


What the.....:xeye:

I think that's the biggest chipamp PCB I have ever seen. At least it's well heatsinked.:clown:

Wow - that just about beats all. And I've seen a lot. Nice 30A fuse!!!!

I just noticed that the bottom plate, while full of Chinglish, is actually accurate with its part numbers. However, it is showing TWO 8210AH chips, while the amp only has ONE.
 
Amazing! I have a little phillips amp, it is smaller than a small power booster maybe 1" high and 4x5 max including fins on two sides over .5" long. It has two big chips inside and I think more stuff packed onto the little board than that one.

We used to laugh, back when I installed people would come in and ask for Kentwood equipment...once in a while it was Kenmore.
 
I remember an American Hi-Fi amp coming in. It was back in 92-3 or so. It was broke, and the guy wanted it fixed to put on his two 15's. It was approx 24-inches long, and heavy. Opened it up to give a quote for repair, and inside was pretty much the same board as the Kingwood. But it had a solid piece of iron in it for weight. The board was only about 4 inches wide, and the plate was about 1/8 inch solid, thick. Glued and screwed to the top inside of the amp. Took up the other 20 inches. That was the worst I have ever seen in trying to make an amp bigger and heavier. I think it was rated at 1000w. Absolute scam of an amp.
 
tomtomjr said:
I remember an American Hi-Fi amp coming in. It was back in 92-3 or so. It was broke, and the guy wanted it fixed to put on his two 15's. It was approx 24-inches long, and heavy. Opened it up to give a quote for repair, and inside was pretty much the same board as the Kingwood. But it had a solid piece of iron in it for weight. The board was only about 4 inches wide, and the plate was about 1/8 inch solid, thick. Glued and screwed to the top inside of the amp. Took up the other 20 inches. That was the worst I have ever seen in trying to make an amp bigger and heavier. I think it was rated at 1000w. Absolute scam of an amp.

LOL. I remember American Hi-Fi. They were the ones that made coaxes with plastic tweeter cones - no magnet, no piezo. Just a dome or cone in a frame.
I grew up in the 'hood - and there was this guy across the street that wanted me to install this gold plated American Hi-Fi EQ with SECUIRTY ALARM (yes, it was misspelled). So, I hook it up for the guy and turn in on. It sounded like complete and utter sh*t. The EQ bands affected one another and none of them seemed to make any tonal sense whatsoever. Then, he blew it up - it had ONE mono IC inside, wired to both Left and Right channels - AND a Fader.

The Security alarm was just a cheap feedback circuit that went off when the dome light activated.
 
A friend of mine had this huge booster back then, it had lights all the way across and was big. Might have been a marantz or something, he still talks about it yet. I think he had 6x9 and 8" woofers in the back and 6.5 in front. It did go loud at the time, but someone hocked it. I just saw an alpine eq/booster go for $100, I was surprised. Got an ancient beat up clarion here for free, should try to figure out how to wire it and test. It is the black one with led up the sides, and it's just packed full inside. I have a big craig powerplay amp too, not sure when they made those. It works I forget the watts but must be about 12x9" or so and black. Want to say 260. I fixed something on it once (made a bottom cover for it), it is full of stuff and the transistors are scattered all over in the middle of the board. In fact I need to tear it down as I did not have any sink compound when I was in it, just wanted to see if it worked. That same guy has a pyramid passive EQ he let me use once in a truck. I had a three way system going in it with that thing just screwing around with small amps. It had a window full of LED and lit the whole floor of the truck up.

Sounds like the junk got better and the good amps got junkier. Has anyone here used a big cheap amp like a pyramid/etc? I picked up a 1400w no name amp for near nothing but its not here yet.
 
i tested a 1500watt US thunder amplifier last week, just to make sure i wasnt wasting money buying old school... needless to say the 2150sx blew away that US thunder.

a look inside the amp showed 6 transistors TO-247 size dual transformers , looked really impressive for a single sided pcb... but it appeared that the fets in the power supply were lacking and the 1500 watt rating was pretty much bogus...

it sounded more like a 300 watt amp with a stretched out pcb to take up the heatsink...the transformers looked like they were good for about 200 watts each.

one thing i want to do is look up the part numbers and see what they are rated for and possibly use something better.

there is one class D pyramid that is purple that shares the same board as the Resonant engineering 35.1 and Lanzar... this one is good.
 
I know the cheap amps are cheap, but if you get one much larger than you need it may work ok. I just buy used older amps, but some people don't know. Mostly I was just curious as I've never looked at a larger one.

I've been told the Opti amps are good, but note they are not the cheap ones either. What is the name of that company that does pyramid and pyle and all, sound-something? Well, I never thought pyramid was that bad. Cheap yes, but back in the day and even now the product seems to work ok if you ignore the on-fire-at-20v-1khz ratings. I had an old one I should have kept, it worked pretty good considering.
 
Re: DCX VOLUME CONTROL

IMSTOOPID said:
HOW R U GUYS CONTROLLING VOLUME WHEN USING THE DCX AS A CROSSOVER??


With the headunit. It's also one of the most noise-free setups available, no matter the cost. Of course, I can guarantee it with the DSPower (see link below) so long as your installation didn't have noise to begin with.

I use the DCX as a crossover, EQ and Time Alignment - so it's a lot more than just a crossover.
 
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