ENVIRONMENTAL HIGHJACK
Guys, fellas, burning the boxes is fun but if you wet them down with detergent ansd some Nitrogen fertilizer MDF and chipboard mulch down in a few years and enrich the soil.
It just takes time and patience, sorry to butt in; but all this talk of burning is a little tree unfreindly.
Here in Oz we are 8 years into a 3 year drought and it is starting to get a little scary, Melbourns is on severe water restrictions and we may actually run out of water in 2 years;- please don't make it worse.
That said I use a lot of MDF, chipboard and ply.
regards Ted
Guys, fellas, burning the boxes is fun but if you wet them down with detergent ansd some Nitrogen fertilizer MDF and chipboard mulch down in a few years and enrich the soil.
It just takes time and patience, sorry to butt in; but all this talk of burning is a little tree unfreindly.
Here in Oz we are 8 years into a 3 year drought and it is starting to get a little scary, Melbourns is on severe water restrictions and we may actually run out of water in 2 years;- please don't make it worse.
That said I use a lot of MDF, chipboard and ply.
regards Ted
I am so very happy I found this thread, and I'd like to extend my greatest thanks to Dave, Scott and Martin for publishing their terrific work here. Amazing stuff!
Since I am not into speaker construction at all myself, I really have to ask...
I want a foot on the small Thor. Part because I think it looks good, part because I don't want it to flip over. I also would like to hide the filter parts in there. Here's a rough drawing on what I'm thinking. Now the question arises: What to to with the tube? Is it its length that is important, or is it how much of it that is actually inside the box? I.e. Is A or B* the correct way to go? Or is there a C out there?
*B does naturally require the foot to be hollowed out, whereas A is a solid foot.
Since I am not into speaker construction at all myself, I really have to ask...
I want a foot on the small Thor. Part because I think it looks good, part because I don't want it to flip over. I also would like to hide the filter parts in there. Here's a rough drawing on what I'm thinking. Now the question arises: What to to with the tube? Is it its length that is important, or is it how much of it that is actually inside the box? I.e. Is A or B* the correct way to go? Or is there a C out there?
*B does naturally require the foot to be hollowed out, whereas A is a solid foot.
Not being an expert in any way......I'll take a stab at it and say "C" is the best answer. Because:
Both "A" and "B" would require the port exit to base at least ~2 inches off the floor to work properly. I built a down-firing sub and it's minimum was 3 1/2" (Works Great!). I think the sound would be "Boomy" if the floor is hardwood / laminate or muffled bass if it's carpet.....I presume carpet due to the spikes.
How about a rear firing port? Although it would tend to
boom as well unless the speaker was placed away from the wall.
That's why mine are front firing........WAF.......don't 'ya know......
At some point in the future I'll remove the Xovers from inside and make a box to sit outside (good idea) and make some 2" Granite bases to sit under the MDF base thats there now.
Like I said, I'm no expert here, so wait for someone else with more experience in design.
Ron
Both "A" and "B" would require the port exit to base at least ~2 inches off the floor to work properly. I built a down-firing sub and it's minimum was 3 1/2" (Works Great!). I think the sound would be "Boomy" if the floor is hardwood / laminate or muffled bass if it's carpet.....I presume carpet due to the spikes.
How about a rear firing port? Although it would tend to
boom as well unless the speaker was placed away from the wall.
That's why mine are front firing........WAF.......don't 'ya know......
At some point in the future I'll remove the Xovers from inside and make a box to sit outside (good idea) and make some 2" Granite bases to sit under the MDF base thats there now.
Like I said, I'm no expert here, so wait for someone else with more experience in design.
Ron
Thanks for the input.
Perhaps a more sculptured foot then - with a box in the speaker itself!
The arch of the foot will be at least 75 mm, and instead of spikes use foam dampers. Probably a lot better anyway.
Which brings me to another question..
I just have to draw it to explain.
Thoughts on this btw?
Perhaps a more sculptured foot then - with a box in the speaker itself!
The arch of the foot will be at least 75 mm, and instead of spikes use foam dampers. Probably a lot better anyway.
Which brings me to another question..
I just have to draw it to explain.
Thoughts on this btw?
Yes. I'm leaving that path. I believe it will be too high. Especially if...:
Inspired by the Amphion Prio, I was thinking about moving the drivers.
I think it looks better to have the drivers as far to the top as possible.
Would this adversely affect the sound?
I'm not sure - that's why I'm asking - but I suspect this would probably change the characteristics altogether.
Inspired by the Amphion Prio, I was thinking about moving the drivers.
I think it looks better to have the drivers as far to the top as possible.
Would this adversely affect the sound?
I'm not sure - that's why I'm asking - but I suspect this would probably change the characteristics altogether.
Driver and vent position in the line do indeed affect performance -specifically the degree of excitation of the line harmonic modes. They need to remain as-is; it's part of the design of an MLTL.
If you lifted the drivers up, you'd be exciting all of the cabinet modes; fundamental (which we want) and harmonics, which occur at even multiples of the fundamental in an untapered line (we certainly don't want these) equally. A rougher response will result.
If you lifted the drivers up, you'd be exciting all of the cabinet modes; fundamental (which we want) and harmonics, which occur at even multiples of the fundamental in an untapered line (we certainly don't want these) equally. A rougher response will result.
Glad you and your speaks made it. Gave a us nice reference as those drivers are well known. It was also nice to hear the revised cabinet. I'd never heard the original but these seemed just fine!
You have to assert yourself a bit more!!!
Bring music- I was disappointed more people didn't do this. I think we proved that no one was humiliated for playing a particular cut, so don't be scared! bring what you like.
Throw yourself on the volume control to preserve your speakers- after all, they are your property!. I suspect that the amp was distorting. It was easy to overdrive both amps and speakers because the room was quite big, and the quality of reproduction was generally very good, which as we all know, keeps you from realizing how loud it is.
Again glad you were there...the quality of finish on your speakers was neigh perfect IMHO
Mark
Mark,
Thank you for the very kind words concerning my speakers.
I had never heard my speakers clip before so I did not know whether it was the amp or my speaks. No damage done either way. I honestly had meant to bring a couple of CDs with me that day. Allison Krauss live is superbly clear and the Dobo solo is outstanding. Gee, I hope I didn't hurt anyone's feeling with my music comment.
Thanks for making me feel at home and not too ignorant (which I am), Wonderful bunch of people and Nelson Pass.......Well what can you say about Santa? Wow! He and his son were having as much fun handing out goodies as we were receiving them. Better stop here or they'll accuse me of thread jacking...sorry..
Ron
Thank you for the very kind words concerning my speakers.
I had never heard my speakers clip before so I did not know whether it was the amp or my speaks. No damage done either way. I honestly had meant to bring a couple of CDs with me that day. Allison Krauss live is superbly clear and the Dobo solo is outstanding. Gee, I hope I didn't hurt anyone's feeling with my music comment. Thanks for making me feel at home and not too ignorant (which I am), Wonderful bunch of people and Nelson Pass.......Well what can you say about Santa? Wow! He and his son were having as much fun handing out goodies as we were receiving them. Better stop here or they'll accuse me of thread jacking...sorry..
Ron
Renron said:
10-4.
Scottmoose said:
Thanks. As I suspected.
What, in your opinion, is the best place for the port exit: back, front or below?
I just looked at greenie512's nice smallThors. They look great!
But one thing puzzles me: He seems to have added some kind of stuffing along all sides of the inside walls.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I thought I only had to add stuffing in the upper half of the smallThor? How did you guys do? And how did you secure the stuffing from gravity - keeping the stuffing from sliding down?
Sorry about all these probably stupid questions, but I'm new in the game and being a foreigner I might not readily catch everything...
Ron,
I was very glad you brought your Thors to BA. Hearing them was one of the high points of the event for me. I almost started a Thor project a few years back and it was interesting to find out what I'd been missing. A great deal it turns out. The amp being used to drive them was AR2's Aleph 30 (30 W/ch) I believe. If so then that would explain why there was stress on the loud bits. Trying to run Thors that loud in a room that big with 30 watts is a serious push.
Thank you again for bringing them. It was great to meet you and talk about your project. And yes, I'm one of the ones who stopped talking and turned toward the front of the room when your speaker demo began.
Graeme
I was very glad you brought your Thors to BA. Hearing them was one of the high points of the event for me. I almost started a Thor project a few years back and it was interesting to find out what I'd been missing. A great deal it turns out. The amp being used to drive them was AR2's Aleph 30 (30 W/ch) I believe. If so then that would explain why there was stress on the loud bits. Trying to run Thors that loud in a room that big with 30 watts is a serious push.
Thank you again for bringing them. It was great to meet you and talk about your project. And yes, I'm one of the ones who stopped talking and turned toward the front of the room when your speaker demo began.
Graeme
gl said:
Thors IMO need at least 200wpc in an ordinary domestic setting -they'll be idling most of the time, but they'll need that in reserve to fully handle dynamic peaks. I'm sure they'll sound good with lower power too, but if you want to maximise their capabilities, the more clean power you can pump into them, the better.
Well then......It was the Amp!
That explains a lot!!!
Even thou they sounded good, the Thors did not have the same sparkle and snap with deep healthy bass as they do at home, or when I took them to the High End Home Theater store in my town.
(Not Best Buy)
At home 16' x 30' they are exempliary(sp?) With the SS Conrad Johnson 250Watts.
Mr.Moose, P10 & Martin......you guys are the Shiznet!
Ron
That explains a lot!!!
Even thou they sounded good, the Thors did not have the same sparkle and snap with deep healthy bass as they do at home, or when I took them to the High End Home Theater store in my town.
(Not Best Buy)
At home 16' x 30' they are exempliary(sp?) With the SS Conrad Johnson 250Watts.
Mr.Moose, P10 & Martin......you guys are the Shiznet!
Ron