We will remove all caps and replace them with Panasonic brand from Arrow.
Thx you for bringing this to our attention.
Thx you for bringing this to our attention.
I see connectors are outlawed ?!
Volt+ is a reasonable priced amp and it has TPA3118D2 ..... Please see thread title "Cheap TPA3118D2 boards, modding them and everything that comes with it". I am modding one right now and will post pics.
In this thread !
Volt+ is a reasonable priced amp and it has TPA3118D2 ..... Please see thread title "Cheap TPA3118D2 boards, modding them and everything that comes with it". I am modding one right now and will post pics.
In this thread !
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Ok pic of uggly soldering and a probably more expensive 3118 than Volt+, just Panasonics for snubberresistor
What did changing the inducters do to the sound? I have the same boards and have been thinking about chaning them.
The stereo set of 2 ampboards including free shipping is 5 euro. Including VAT that is also the price of 1 inductor. So valueformoneywise it can only be a stupid idea
I haven't compared just inductors and they also are a little different value (less difference than markings suggest, the chinese are 20-40% above marking, the Wurth differed max 0.7%, so well within 20% tollerance specced)
I haven't compared just inductors and they also are a little different value (less difference than markings suggest, the chinese are 20-40% above marking, the Wurth differed max 0.7%, so well within 20% tollerance specced)
I thought I would play with some of the newer Class D boards from China and bought 2 of the mono sanwu boards, at least I believe they are sanwu. I am using a meanwell switcher dialed down to 22V's. I am just experimenting with Class D see what improvements have been made with the cheap boards coming from China. I just hooked everything up on a board without spending money on pots and was driving it with my BA'3 pre. The boards have too much gain to use a pre with but they did sound very good. Later on I decided to try the boards with my B1 buffer and it made a big difference in the sound. I am very much impressed with what I am hearing for such little amount of money. The thread has gotten so long I do not know if anyone has compared the sound with pots vs a good buffer. I do not know what input impedance the boards work best with. From my very short listening I think they will work better with a good buffer but then I have not tried just pots.
TPA3118D2 in a Gainclone case
Here is my case for TPA3118D2 amps, built using a couple of tin candy cans.
More information on “The reverse GainClone” thread ( http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-amps/297538-my-reverse-gainclone-idea-gaincard-like-case.html ) in Chip Amp Forum.
Ciao.
Luca
Here is my case for TPA3118D2 amps, built using a couple of tin candy cans.
More information on “The reverse GainClone” thread ( http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-amps/297538-my-reverse-gainclone-idea-gaincard-like-case.html ) in Chip Amp Forum.
Ciao.
Luca
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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Cheap 3116 and 3118 boards from Asia have been available for a few years now. The Sanwu 3118 mono board is only 3-4 US$ a pop, how much cheaper are you expecting it to be?
Probably m0b1liz3 intended to post in thread for tpa3255 or tpa3251 or tpa3245 or tpa3250
Tpa3251 now begins to get close to tas5630b prices, so if ampboards are being produced one might get to see prices in tas5630b region, but till now I only see the $100 Sinewave.
This is why i restrain myself to buy another tas5630.
I hope to buy a tpa325x next year.
Sorry I wasn't clear in my post. I have a 3118 board already. I guess I was really asking what the typical time interval is from eval to production with newer class D chips. I was kind of thinking less than a year would be typical but that is just a guess.
That's a completely different question with cheap chinese products compared to more expensive, usually better engineered, etc. commercial products.
Example:
The forum user Saturnus who developed the boominator now sells a commercial product that uses TI's TAS576x chip with built in dsp features.
Those chips are available for some time now, but not a single chinese board popped up, yet.
There may be lots of products using those newer chips.
Chinese products are knockoffs, copies of circuits posted in the internet, etc.
They need a while to get on the track.
hi all, i'm starting my first project building an audio amplifier based on the mono tpa 3118 boards.
i read in the past posts that using a shielded cable to connect the audio input sockets to the amp boards reduces a lot the intereference noise. however, i'm not sure regarding what (diameter, ofc or not, etc...) shielded cable to buy and where. could you provide me some suggestions or links to buy it?
thank you!
i read in the past posts that using a shielded cable to connect the audio input sockets to the amp boards reduces a lot the intereference noise. however, i'm not sure regarding what (diameter, ofc or not, etc...) shielded cable to buy and where. could you provide me some suggestions or links to buy it?
thank you!
good shielding is what you want. you don't need or want overly thick cable; that will just make building harder than it needs to be.
I like having copper shield as well as a foil wrap, but you may not need such extreme measures.
you can also try twisted pair and see if that's enough. a neat trick is to make your own. take 2 wires and secure them in a vice on your bench. walk down to the end of your room with the free ends of those 2 wires and secure them in a cordless drill and DRILL THEM to twist them. its fun, actually don't go too far, but twist them enough and keep tension on the pair so that it stays twisted. if your cables are not very long, often the twisted pair trick is enough.
more important, though, is to keep inputs away from power and outputs. power and outputs can 'mix' but keep inputs away, physically, from other things.
I like having copper shield as well as a foil wrap, but you may not need such extreme measures.
you can also try twisted pair and see if that's enough. a neat trick is to make your own. take 2 wires and secure them in a vice on your bench. walk down to the end of your room with the free ends of those 2 wires and secure them in a cordless drill and DRILL THEM to twist them. its fun, actually
don't go too far, but twist them enough and keep tension on the pair so that it stays twisted. if your cables are not very long, often the twisted pair trick is enough.more important, though, is to keep inputs away from power and outputs. power and outputs can 'mix' but keep inputs away, physically, from other things.