BOM is here for FX-8 amp:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/soli...imate-fidelity-amplifier-654.html#post4642711
Gerber files here - just upload to your favorite PCB fab shop:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/soli...imate-fidelity-amplifier-651.html#post4641314
(I used seeedstudio.com, $10 for 10 boards)
But if you have more questions go to the Apex thread.
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You just desolder what is labeled on the board as r27 and it's done. Pretty easy even with a horse of a soldering iron that I haveanyone got a pic showing location of gain resistors on the 3118 mono boards,if so can you post.
also does the same rule apply....if i just lift the 100k resistor then the gain will default to 20db?
thanks for any help guys
Can't imagine soldering fresh components of this size, however.Poslano z mojega LG-D855 z uporabo Tapatalk
I will do stress test when the MOSFETs arrive. Right now just waiting. I imagine that it won't be a problem at all given the positive reviews I have heard on this amp. Even the designer, Mille (Apex Audio) says it is his favorite "simple" amp, and he has a lot of amps...
To put it in perspective though, that little Sanwu with a 24v SMPS is an amazing little package of engineering given how small and great sounding it is. No doubt about that. It's the bass authority department where the little TPA's seem to suffer when asked to push a lot of air in a woofer.
So i collected some data about several capacitors found/used on chinese electronics and made datasheets available here:
Cheap capacitors from China / Taiwan / Asia - #360customs
Anyone can provide a (self shoot) picture of a VT cap like shown on the page? (I'd like to use it then, as i haven't got any electronics with this cap)
Cheap capacitors from China / Taiwan / Asia - #360customs
Anyone can provide a (self shoot) picture of a VT cap like shown on the page? (I'd like to use it then, as i haven't got any electronics with this cap)
thanks peroz,your a star
xrk....funny you should mention the bass on those 3118 mono boards as i find this is its major downside....moreso when compared to the nobsound 3116 amp i have.
for me the bass seems to have a mid range warmth/tubbiness to quote my technical terminology
bare in mind that all this is to my ears and in my system,the balance reminds me of a original elna silmic cap stuck in a bad location,for those that have dealings with those caps,hopefully that will paint the best picture of the bass sound im finding
for others,,,and this is just my take remember,and in my system.....it seems to have a slight boast/excess around the lower midrange , this makes it very pleasant and even to listern to when first fired up,and there certainly impressive and a no brainer for the money....but after awhile im missing the dynamics and the leading edge to stuff im familiar with and the impact of some bass notes that i know should be there
ive replaced power caps and tried various pp caps and lytics on the input,but that warmth seems to be always present.
im hoping as i move back and tackle the inductors etc i might hit the nail on the head and find something thats adding this warmth...or not!!!
it could just be the way the beast is,if so then ill be sticking to the wlx/nobsound 3116 board ....this is quite rough sounding as standard,but love it when its had afew tweaks...dynamics and slam are quite addictive
what can i say?...i had a spare few minutes...i thought i would share
xrk....funny you should mention the bass on those 3118 mono boards as i find this is its major downside....moreso when compared to the nobsound 3116 amp i have.
for me the bass seems to have a mid range warmth/tubbiness to quote my technical terminology
bare in mind that all this is to my ears and in my system,the balance reminds me of a original elna silmic cap stuck in a bad location,for those that have dealings with those caps,hopefully that will paint the best picture of the bass sound im finding
for others,,,and this is just my take remember,and in my system.....it seems to have a slight boast/excess around the lower midrange , this makes it very pleasant and even to listern to when first fired up,and there certainly impressive and a no brainer for the money....but after awhile im missing the dynamics and the leading edge to stuff im familiar with and the impact of some bass notes that i know should be there
ive replaced power caps and tried various pp caps and lytics on the input,but that warmth seems to be always present.
im hoping as i move back and tackle the inductors etc i might hit the nail on the head and find something thats adding this warmth...or not!!!
it could just be the way the beast is,if so then ill be sticking to the wlx/nobsound 3116 board ....this is quite rough sounding as standard,but love it when its had afew tweaks...dynamics and slam are quite addictive
what can i say?...i had a spare few minutes...i thought i would share
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hi
have 220uf x 4 as replacements on board,i have 330uf on power point on board before diode ....and as i dont like to be classed as a quitter it also has a 6800uf in power terminal.......reckon got the caps covered,and this was listened to at various cap adding stages.hasnt touched
what i dont like about the bass on these boards.
i havent set it to 20db yet,but going by my other board ive never found that brings bass notes to the party....anyway im not missing bass notes as far as i can tell...if i play tracks of strong bass rthymans then it all seems to be there,its the quality and impact that i finding is off putting,its not a deal breaker has it does seem to highlight textures within that bass more compared to the wlx board.
at end of day its just down to our tastes isnt it,and the major fun trying to tune it to our taste and system,and back in the day,i spent more on a silver audiophile fuse for my valve amp then these couple of amps....so lets keep my feet firmly on the ground
have 220uf x 4 as replacements on board,i have 330uf on power point on board before diode ....and as i dont like to be classed as a quitter it also has a 6800uf in power terminal.......reckon got the caps covered
,and this was listened to at various cap adding stages.hasnt touched what i dont like about the bass on these boards.
i havent set it to 20db yet,but going by my other board ive never found that brings bass notes to the party....anyway im not missing bass notes as far as i can tell...if i play tracks of strong bass rthymans then it all seems to be there,its the quality and impact that i finding is off putting,its not a deal breaker has it does seem to highlight textures within that bass more compared to the wlx board.
at end of day its just down to our tastes isnt it,and the major fun trying to tune it to our taste and system,and back in the day,i spent more on a silver audiophile fuse for my valve amp then these couple of amps....so lets keep my feet firmly on the ground
There is a simple filter on input, with 9k inputimpedance that filter is slightly different than with 60k inputimpedance. Next to that ceramics do seem to have slighly different bass tone, bass from 2.2uF input coupling film seems more powerfull than from 10uF or other values input coupling ceramic. (values mentioned because of bias, also where values can't seem to make a difference bass power sounds different)
different than with 60k inputimpedance. Next to that ceramics do seem to have slighly different bass tone, bass from 2.2uF input coupling film seems more powerfull than from 10uF or other values input coupling ceramic. (values mentioned because of bias, also where values can't seem to make a difference bass power sounds different)thanks peroz,your a star
for me the bass seems to have a mid range warmth/tubbiness to quote my technical terminology
.....it seems to have a slight boast/excess around the lower midrange , this makes it very pleasant and even to listern to when first fired up
FWIW, standard "my ears, my system" disclaimers apply. But I feel like I'm getting the best bass yet out of my recently nearly-completed dual-mono TPA3116 build using the boards from the DUG group buy. I tried to incorporate all the "best practices" (real or imagined
) into this build, so it has:- 18V Sigma11 linear, regulated power supply (one supply for both boards)
- 4x5600uF off-board cap bank
- 4x OS-CON 330uF caps per board
- Big Coilcraft inductors and through-hole film caps in the output filter
- Jensen JT-11P-1 input transformers (unbalanced to balanced conversion, galvanic isolation, DC-blocking)
Obviously this wasn't a cheap build (the Coilcraft inductors alone cost more than the boards that are the subject of this thread!). I haven't listened to the cheap tpa311x boards in a while, as before this I was using the Gmarsh Wiener board for a long time.
But anyway... I did a little bit of listening this weekend, and I think the dual-mono DUG build offers the best bass in my system I've yet heard. My speakers have an estimated F6 in the low 50s, so "monster" bass isn't really possible no matter what amp. But it's also nearfield (roughly 1 meter ear-to-speaker), so the perception of bass is certainly different than in a farfield setup.
Could also be that I'm simply hearing "a slight boast/excess around the lower midrange" that Smithie mentioned (depending on where you define "bass" and "midrange").
I'm just now dipping my toes into class-AB, and the one and only little chipamp I've tried thus far doesn't satisfy the same way. But, to be fair, I need more time with it (and why I'm deliberately not providing any more detail). Could also simply be that I've been tpa311x-exclusive for a couple years (or more?) now, so maybe I've just created a preference for its "signature" sound.
This is interesting - I will have to plug my DUG v0 amp in (it has 3.3uF Panasonic film caps) and I will see if the bass is better than the 1uF ceramic on the Sanwu.
I recently got some 10uF SMT ceramics in, wonder if swapping out the 1uF inputs with these on the Sanwu will help? (if they fit that is - kind of fat for SMT)
Matt_Garman:
That's a sweet system. Give the class AB Dx amp a try (cheap if you have 35v dual rail supply already). Or try the FX8 that I am building, I hear that is even better.
I recently got some 10uF SMT ceramics in, wonder if swapping out the 1uF inputs with these on the Sanwu will help? (if they fit that is - kind of fat for SMT)
Matt_Garman:
That's a sweet system. Give the class AB Dx amp a try (cheap if you have 35v dual rail supply already). Or try the FX8 that I am building, I hear that is even better.
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I know you like it already Still, might not fit.
I know you like it already
Still, might not fit.
hi all
i posted this over on the massive 3116 thread,but thought i would post here to as it does have a question regarding the 3118
hi
has anyone got experience,views or opinions on this
DC 12V-24V TPA3116 Digital Power Amplifier Board Mono 100W for Car Motorcycle | eBay
ive been using and modding the 3118 pbtl monoblocks,but these look like they could be a better deal because they have through hole mounting points.
also i know that the 3118 and 3116 chip are ment to be the same other then there cooling arrangement,but has anyone compared the two regarding sound quality?
all the best smithie
i posted this over on the massive 3116 thread,but thought i would post here to as it does have a question regarding the 3118
hi
has anyone got experience,views or opinions on this
DC 12V-24V TPA3116 Digital Power Amplifier Board Mono 100W for Car Motorcycle | eBay
ive been using and modding the 3118 pbtl monoblocks,but these look like they could be a better deal because they have through hole mounting points.
also i know that the 3118 and 3116 chip are ment to be the same other then there cooling arrangement,but has anyone compared the two regarding sound quality?
all the best smithie
I have been listening to these little 3118’s for a while now with a pair of TB-W3 TABQ speakers. I have tried these speakers with 3 different 3116 amps and would say this is the best sounding combination of the lot.
I am thinking of changing the power caps to OSCON’s. What would be the best way to wire them with a single ps and switch?
I am thinking of changing the power caps to OSCON’s. What would be the best way to wire them with a single ps and switch?
Attachments
I would leave them connected to power on always and make a switch (DPST) across the mute pins. That way there is no pop when turning on or off. It's always in standby or on. It's actually better for the amp not to be power cycled. Put it all in a cigar box and use all the connectors you currently have.
I actually had some extra components laying around so I went ahead and ruined the magic of these 3118pbtl so here is a subjective opinion.
Initial impressions were: yes the highs does sound better, more smooth. The mods did eliminate the high pitch whine that can be heard with no music playing. I can tell which speaker has the modified board in a blind test pretty quickly. But was it worth the time and ~$18/block? I do not know yet, right now I am thinking no.. I need some time to listen to them some more.
Initial impressions were: yes the highs does sound better, more smooth. The mods did eliminate the high pitch whine that can be heard with no music playing. I can tell which speaker has the modified board in a blind test pretty quickly. But was it worth the time and ~$18/block? I do not know yet, right now I am thinking no.. I need some time to listen to them some more.
