BWRX said:It depends on how your other equipment is earthed. If your source and pre amp use floating supplies (are not connected to earth) it would probably work fine. If this particular SMPS has its ground connected to earth ground (which is likely for safety reasons) and your source and/or pre amp are connected to earth in some way then you would need to open up the SMPS and disconnect the the supply ground from earth ground. I would not recommend doing that though for safety reasons. Usually those types of SMPS bricks can't be sealed after cracking them open and there are very lethal voltages inside when they're plugged into the wall.
sounds like Charlize2 may not be for me, would the original Charlize have the same problem? My understanding is original works fine with this.
gychang
Finished!
I finally finished the "buffer/dc coupler/dc offset trim" board for my AMP32. I only have it hooked up to some raw 4" drivers right now, but it works!
Everything works fine, but for some reason the OPA1632 get REALLY hot. They get hot even when there is nothing on the inputs or outputs. Power supply is a very tightly regulated +/-15v.
Oh well, as long as it doesn't catch fire and still works I guess it's ok.
Pics.....
http://i18.tinypic.com/54n6q2p.jpg
http://i19.tinypic.com/52p5soh.jpg
http://i15.tinypic.com/6auhyqc.jpg
http://i10.tinypic.com/4z1ecma.jpg
http://i13.tinypic.com/4tjo7rc.jpg
I finally finished the "buffer/dc coupler/dc offset trim" board for my AMP32. I only have it hooked up to some raw 4" drivers right now, but it works!
Everything works fine, but for some reason the OPA1632 get REALLY hot. They get hot even when there is nothing on the inputs or outputs. Power supply is a very tightly regulated +/-15v.
Oh well, as long as it doesn't catch fire and still works I guess it's ok.
Pics.....
http://i18.tinypic.com/54n6q2p.jpg
http://i19.tinypic.com/52p5soh.jpg
http://i15.tinypic.com/6auhyqc.jpg
http://i10.tinypic.com/4z1ecma.jpg
http://i13.tinypic.com/4tjo7rc.jpg
I have stacks of 1"x5" pieces of 2oz FR4 so I just had to trim a few inches off a piece to get a perfect fit.
I did the whole layout manually in Pad2Pad. I laid all the traces by hand; not a single net. My brain is having a heck of a time with pro layout tools. I've tried Eagle, Protel, and now Ultiboard. They're all a bit too much for my limited ambition.
I just hooked the "mini stack of HiFi" up to my bedroom 3-ways. I forgot how much punch this little board can deliver. Bass is very clean and powerful. My 3-ways are garbage so it's hard to tell how it really performs in the midrange and highs.
I have build 3 AMP3's and 4 AMP32's and this is the only one I still own. I'm not getting rid of this one.
I did the whole layout manually in Pad2Pad. I laid all the traces by hand; not a single net. My brain is having a heck of a time with pro layout tools. I've tried Eagle, Protel, and now Ultiboard. They're all a bit too much for my limited ambition.
I just hooked the "mini stack of HiFi" up to my bedroom 3-ways. I forgot how much punch this little board can deliver. Bass is very clean and powerful. My 3-ways are garbage so it's hard to tell how it really performs in the midrange and highs.
I have build 3 AMP3's and 4 AMP32's and this is the only one I still own. I'm not getting rid of this one.
That's pretty awesome what you did man!
I used transformers myself, couldn't really reason or judge well at the time what kind of a compromise it would result in in the end. Probably your mod results in a better one.
http://41hz.com/Forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1378
I should try pad to pad, didn't even know it...Thanks for the hint!
Basically I have tried about the same (eagle, ultiboard) but as life is sooo much about making choices I never spent enough time on either program to really get the hang of it...
The crew I work with say I have quite a few talents. But now I come to think of it I do am a bit of a "Jack of all trades but master at (almost) none".....
The only remedy I guess is just to keep learning!
Cheers!
I used transformers myself, couldn't really reason or judge well at the time what kind of a compromise it would result in in the end. Probably your mod results in a better one.
http://41hz.com/Forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1378
I should try pad to pad, didn't even know it...Thanks for the hint!
Basically I have tried about the same (eagle, ultiboard) but as life is sooo much about making choices I never spent enough time on either program to really get the hang of it...
The crew I work with say I have quite a few talents. But now I come to think of it I do am a bit of a "Jack of all trades but master at (almost) none".....
The only remedy I guess is just to keep learning!
Cheers!
Well, using a transformer will let you get rid of the capacitors, but it will not allow DC coupling. Putting sonics aside, even the best audio transformers have low frequency roll off.
I forgot to mention there is no power on/off pop anymore, only a very faint "click".
I think I have hijacked this thread enough though.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=107628
I forgot to mention there is no power on/off pop anymore, only a very faint "click".
I think I have hijacked this thread enough though.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=107628
theAnonymous1 said:
I forgot to mention there is no power on/off pop anymore, only a very faint "click".
did u mean to say the original Charlize now has only a very faint "click"? or Charlize 2?...
gychang
v-bro said:No caps no plop, same with me.....
Yep, same for me. And bass is much better than with a cap, despite what theory may say. Some things just work that way.
panomaniac said:
Yep, same for me. And bass is much better than with a cap, despite what theory may say. Some things just work that way.
Panomaniac, is the original Charlize better than C2?, same price...
gychang
gychang said:is the original Charlize better than C2?
Shootz! I dunno. The original is nice. Have not seen the new version.
The old version is basically the Tripath eval board with a few things moved around.
Don't know what has changed on the new version.
My recent experiments have been limited to the Trends, the Yu Long, some old Fenice boards and the Lepai. I like to think of the Lepai as the crack ho cousin of Charlize.
There is a lot to be done with the inputs, the results seem to worth the effort.
dears,
I do have a charlize2 but i'm a bit concerned because my DAC is sending a bit of DC to the charlize (no more than10mV though).
I'm considering a DC trimming / servo solution and i can see the following options :
- a buffer with DC adjustment (JISBOS)
- theAnonymous1's "simple" DC trimmer :
- theAnonymous1's full solution with buffer as described here
Any other simple solution ?
I do have a charlize2 but i'm a bit concerned because my DAC is sending a bit of DC to the charlize (no more than10mV though).
I'm considering a DC trimming / servo solution and i can see the following options :
- a buffer with DC adjustment (JISBOS)
- theAnonymous1's "simple" DC trimmer :
- theAnonymous1's full solution with buffer as described here
Any other simple solution ?
It's a discrete class A buffer (unity gain).
More info here : http://www.diamondstar.de/jisbos/jisbos_overview.html
I'm using it to lower the output impedance of my DAC and to circumvent the small DC offset my source produces (there are onboard DC trimmer). I did retry and i get a wider and much taller image with the jisbos but maybe a slightly less precise one.
More info here : http://www.diamondstar.de/jisbos/jisbos_overview.html
I'm using it to lower the output impedance of my DAC and to circumvent the small DC offset my source produces (there are onboard DC trimmer). I did retry and i get a wider and much taller image with the jisbos but maybe a slightly less precise one.
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