Charlize 2

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BWRX said:
It depends on how your other equipment is earthed. If your source and pre amp use floating supplies (are not connected to earth) it would probably work fine. If this particular SMPS has its ground connected to earth ground (which is likely for safety reasons) and your source and/or pre amp are connected to earth in some way then you would need to open up the SMPS and disconnect the the supply ground from earth ground. I would not recommend doing that though for safety reasons. Usually those types of SMPS bricks can't be sealed after cracking them open and there are very lethal voltages inside when they're plugged into the wall.


sounds like Charlize2 may not be for me, would the original Charlize have the same problem? My understanding is original works fine with this.

gychang
 
Finished!

I finally finished the "buffer/dc coupler/dc offset trim" board for my AMP32. I only have it hooked up to some raw 4" drivers right now, but it works!

Everything works fine, but for some reason the OPA1632 get REALLY hot. They get hot even when there is nothing on the inputs or outputs. Power supply is a very tightly regulated +/-15v.

Oh well, as long as it doesn't catch fire and still works I guess it's ok.:eek:

Pics.....

http://i18.tinypic.com/54n6q2p.jpg
http://i19.tinypic.com/52p5soh.jpg
http://i15.tinypic.com/6auhyqc.jpg
http://i10.tinypic.com/4z1ecma.jpg
http://i13.tinypic.com/4tjo7rc.jpg
 
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Looks good! The 1632 datasheet says the part draws 14mA quiescent current with a +/-15V supply, so it's no surprise that the SO-08 package gets pretty hot. You could reduce the supply rail voltages to lower dissipation if you'd like it to run a bit cooler.
 
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Joined 2005
I like how you made it the same size as the amp32 board and then stacked them for maximum compactness.

That's a nice touch using the inverting output to maintain absolute phase :up:

I know it's early, but how do you think it sounds compared to the stock amp32?
 
I have stacks of 1"x5" pieces of 2oz FR4 so I just had to trim a few inches off a piece to get a perfect fit.

I did the whole layout manually in Pad2Pad. I laid all the traces by hand; not a single net. My brain is having a heck of a time with pro layout tools. I've tried Eagle, Protel, and now Ultiboard. They're all a bit too much for my limited ambition.:xeye:

I just hooked the "mini stack of HiFi" up to my bedroom 3-ways. I forgot how much punch this little board can deliver. Bass is very clean and powerful. My 3-ways are garbage so it's hard to tell how it really performs in the midrange and highs.

I have build 3 AMP3's and 4 AMP32's and this is the only one I still own. I'm not getting rid of this one.:smash:
 
That's pretty awesome what you did man!

I used transformers myself, couldn't really reason or judge well at the time what kind of a compromise it would result in in the end. Probably your mod results in a better one.
http://41hz.com/Forums/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=1378

I should try pad to pad, didn't even know it...Thanks for the hint!:worship:

Basically I have tried about the same (eagle, ultiboard) but as life is sooo much about making choices I never spent enough time on either program to really get the hang of it...:rolleyes:

The crew I work with say I have quite a few talents. But now I come to think of it I do am a bit of a "Jack of all trades but master at (almost) none".....:apathic:

The only remedy I guess is just to keep learning! :D

Cheers!
 
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gychang said:
is the original Charlize better than C2?

Shootz! I dunno. The original is nice. Have not seen the new version.
The old version is basically the Tripath eval board with a few things moved around.
Don't know what has changed on the new version.

My recent experiments have been limited to the Trends, the Yu Long, some old Fenice boards and the Lepai. I like to think of the Lepai as the crack ho cousin of Charlize. ;)

There is a lot to be done with the inputs, the results seem to worth the effort.
 
dears,

I do have a charlize2 but i'm a bit concerned because my DAC is sending a bit of DC to the charlize (no more than10mV though).

I'm considering a DC trimming / servo solution and i can see the following options :

- a buffer with DC adjustment (JISBOS)
- theAnonymous1's "simple" DC trimmer :
attachment.php

- theAnonymous1's full solution with buffer as described here

Any other simple solution ?
 
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