It's one thing to screw a piece of wood or MDF to the top or bottom of a CD player but marble/granite is less compliable and may cause more problems than it solves.
I would suggest some sort of compliant 'gasket' is used between the marble and the CD casing.
I used custom made damping panels, made from a sandwich of MDF with pockets of sand. These work very well as the vibration is converted into heat by the action of the sand particles rubbing against each other.
You can see what it looks like HERE
Hi Nuuk, i have very soft mats i use under my aquarium left.
This i will try first between marble and player.
When you are in there, may i ask you what the digital output mod
exactly tries to do? I haven´t found a schematic to verify what
resistors these are. Are they the ones i posted the pics some
messages before?
This i will try first between marble and player.
When you are in there, may i ask you what the digital output mod
exactly tries to do? I haven´t found a schematic to verify what
resistors these are. Are they the ones i posted the pics some
messages before?
Re: Re: Apologies
Kuei Yang Wang,
There's no value mentioned at C6 in the power suply, what is this supposed to be?
I'm quite interrested in tubing my CD923, do you have more stuff the may be helplfull in doing that?
Geert
Kuei Yang Wang,
There's no value mentioned at C6 in the power suply, what is this supposed to be?
I'm quite interrested in tubing my CD923, do you have more stuff the may be helplfull in doing that?
Geert
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Re: Re: Re: Apologies
Hi,
100uF
No other hints, sorry. The neccesary change around the TDA1545 are described in the Datasheet. It means the two resistors between the +5V supply and IC pin 7 (reference) are set to 11k each, giving 2mA full scale current. In the original Philips Player I believe these are 15k & 18k.
Sayonara
Hi,
GeertM said:
100uF
No other hints, sorry. The neccesary change around the TDA1545 are described in the Datasheet. It means the two resistors between the +5V supply and IC pin 7 (reference) are set to 11k each, giving 2mA full scale current. In the original Philips Player I believe these are 15k & 18k.
Sayonara
The scanner's still available
Also an old Umax gathering dust. I tend to get the odd piece of old IT kit that we just don't have a use for.
This thread is of great interest to me as I've just got a CD5000, although I'm not actually planning on doing any mods till the rest of the system is finished. Probably just disconnecting the headphone board for now & damping the case.
I have noticed that contrary to the Marantz specs on their website the line out volume can be controlled by the remote. Useful for turning it down without getting up when the doorbell rings, but I wont be using as a master volume as such.
Look forward to hearing all the ideas, I have a tube pre-amp in the pipeline (its a loooong pipe
) & so will be interested in both SS & tube mods to this player.
Cheers
Paul
Also an old Umax gathering dust. I tend to get the odd piece of old IT kit that we just don't have a use for.
This thread is of great interest to me as I've just got a CD5000, although I'm not actually planning on doing any mods till the rest of the system is finished. Probably just disconnecting the headphone board for now & damping the case.
I have noticed that contrary to the Marantz specs on their website the line out volume can be controlled by the remote. Useful for turning it down without getting up when the doorbell rings, but I wont be using as a master volume as such.
Look forward to hearing all the ideas, I have a tube pre-amp in the pipeline (its a loooong pipe
) & so will be interested in both SS & tube mods to this player.Cheers
Paul
I would be careful using the volume control with the Philips.
It is the first player i know (not much) that also changes the volume
of the digital output with using the volume control!
In theory this means the resolution of the digital signal
is smallered or at least altered.
I don´t know this exactly, maybe someone else can confirm?
It is the first player i know (not much) that also changes the volume
of the digital output with using the volume control!
In theory this means the resolution of the digital signal
is smallered or at least altered.
I don´t know this exactly, maybe someone else can confirm?
Volume
Wasn't aware of that, thanks Wombat.
One thing the salesperson did mention was that the CD5000 has a higher line output than its rivals at max volume - if it's true its an obvious attempt to bias A/B comparisons when you're listening at the showroom. The player may not sound better than what you would be comparing it to, but definitely louder. To most people in a 1 minute comparison could that be mistaken as better?
Cheers
Paul
Wasn't aware of that, thanks Wombat.
One thing the salesperson did mention was that the CD5000 has a higher line output than its rivals at max volume - if it's true its an obvious attempt to bias A/B comparisons when you're listening at the showroom. The player may not sound better than what you would be comparing it to, but definitely louder. To most people in a 1 minute comparison could that be mistaken as better?
Cheers
Paul
dear all
I own a CD753. I have modified it to a great extend, I added my own XO3 clock, and fiddled around with power suplies and decoupling.
I also directly clocked the DAC (like someone else remarked here before - well done)
Still, I do not like the sound. It still has a kind of stress, or "mechanical" aspect in the sound, which makes me switch it off.
In contrast, my TEAC VRDS10 (with the same XO3 clock) does not have these aspects at all, sounds wonderfully relaxed with loads of detials (used as a drive with our own DAC design)
I suspect the drive eletonics, possibly the layout of the board, and the servo currents interacting on the short loader board.
One day I will try to find time and carry out jitter measurements, I expect to see low frequency disturbance due to the servo's (focus, radial and tracking) in the jitter spectrum.
all the best
I own a CD753. I have modified it to a great extend, I added my own XO3 clock, and fiddled around with power suplies and decoupling.
I also directly clocked the DAC (like someone else remarked here before - well done)
Still, I do not like the sound. It still has a kind of stress, or "mechanical" aspect in the sound, which makes me switch it off.
In contrast, my TEAC VRDS10 (with the same XO3 clock) does not have these aspects at all, sounds wonderfully relaxed with loads of detials (used as a drive with our own DAC design)
I suspect the drive eletonics, possibly the layout of the board, and the servo currents interacting on the short loader board.
One day I will try to find time and carry out jitter measurements, I expect to see low frequency disturbance due to the servo's (focus, radial and tracking) in the jitter spectrum.
all the best
The short loader itself can´t be to shabby, even Krell
use it in their 280-CD.
http://www.audiotechnique.com.hk/product/krell/krell.html
But they possible modified it a bit, too.
use it in their 280-CD.
http://www.audiotechnique.com.hk/product/krell/krell.html
But they possible modified it a bit, too.
Hi Guido, I did the electronic mods to my CD723 last week and to make sure that it was OK, I ran it without the casing on. It did sound a bit like you describe but when the casing was put back on, that element went away.
I can't stress enough that the mechanical mods are just as important as the electronics! That's why your TEAC sounds so good.
Sadly, it seems that many people are ignoring this advice and limiting the potential of their CD players.
I appreciate that not everybody has DIY skills in woodwork/metalwork but it really isn't too difficult to at least screw on some sort of damping panels to the top and bottom of the case even if you don't go as far as I have done.
Hi Guys, the schematics of the cd753 are scanned by Jean-Paul, thanks JP!
The problem is, I don't have permision to publish them on the forum so to all the forum members that want/need the schematics, I ask you all to mail me (see e-mail below) and I'll send the zip files to you.
Best regards,
Audiofanatic
P.S. If someone knows a better way, be my guest!
The problem is, I don't have permision to publish them on the forum so to all the forum members that want/need the schematics, I ask you all to mail me (see e-mail below) and I'll send the zip files to you.
Best regards,
Audiofanatic
P.S. If someone knows a better way, be my guest!
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