I've been trying different xo's - there is one in the oak wood base - System 7 (Steve).
This is the best so far (pic) getting some rich base (that was the hope). The tweeter is a little hot, laid some felt pieces on them for now.
Is there a way to quiet them a db or two with resistors (L-pad maybe)?
This is the best so far (pic) getting some rich base (that was the hope). The tweeter is a little hot, laid some felt pieces on them for now.
Is there a way to quiet them a db or two with resistors (L-pad maybe)?
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The parts arrived, made up bread board xo's - mainly so there are no mistakes.
They do sound nice, all of a sudden they image!
I see what you are saying about the mid, that's a bit hot, I'll add more damping material.
Going to make 3 more I think, with a little twist - going to extend front baffle up and mount tweeter on top (outside).
Something like the pic.
And Thank you for your help
They do sound nice, all of a sudden they image!
I see what you are saying about the mid, that's a bit hot, I'll add more damping material.
Going to make 3 more I think, with a little twist - going to extend front baffle up and mount tweeter on top (outside).
Something like the pic.
And Thank you for your help
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Great it's working out.
It's a good idea to have the tweeter as close to the woofer as possible. I usually keep the edge of my tweeter's flange 1/4" or less to the woofer.
You may want to consider mounting it onto the front panel instead of extending it. If there's not enough space, offset the tweeter slightly. Should you do this, then offset the tweeter in the opposite side for the other speaker.
It's a good idea to have the tweeter as close to the woofer as possible. I usually keep the edge of my tweeter's flange 1/4" or less to the woofer.
You may want to consider mounting it onto the front panel instead of extending it. If there's not enough space, offset the tweeter slightly. Should you do this, then offset the tweeter in the opposite side for the other speaker.
3" ? well could be I guess; been wondering about that. Could use shield like back on post #13.
I may use some of the cheap poly in the bottom of box, since it doesn't do much - it could be used to "hold up" the better wool.
Btw, I think the 6-1/2oz of the PE wool, is just a bit much; going to pull some back out (and as mentioned, add some super fluff (poly) at bottom.
I may use some of the cheap poly in the bottom of box, since it doesn't do much - it could be used to "hold up" the better wool.
Btw, I think the 6-1/2oz of the PE wool, is just a bit much; going to pull some back out (and as mentioned, add some super fluff (poly) at bottom.
I was thinking the opposite - trying to get wool around the back of driver but not block air flow.
[btw - the gap is only 4-1/8"]
I've been collecting plastic screens, I think I can fold a piece in.
These are starting to sound better than the speakers in the other "main" room.
[btw - the gap is only 4-1/8"]
I've been collecting plastic screens, I think I can fold a piece in.
These are starting to sound better than the speakers in the other "main" room.
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Did make a few tweaks: plastic screen, 6oz fill, added more felt. And of course glued them; that was the biggest change, lots of robust bass now.
I was curious about the woofer, made up a 1.8mh (14G)/7 uf cap and tried it, there was lot more lower end, but didn't sound as good overall.
I was curious about the woofer, made up a 1.8mh (14G)/7 uf cap and tried it, there was lot more lower end, but didn't sound as good overall.
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Great to hear it's working out.
When you lower the inductor, you'll get more bass. Too much and you'll lose the mids. It's all a question of having the right balance.
In a 2-way, it's more difficult because the woofer is trying to do bass and mids. Actually, it's more than this. Bass is made up of mid bass and low bass. That in itself is already difficult.
When you lower the inductor, you'll get more bass. Too much and you'll lose the mids. It's all a question of having the right balance.
In a 2-way, it's more difficult because the woofer is trying to do bass and mids. Actually, it's more than this. Bass is made up of mid bass and low bass. That in itself is already difficult.
FYI
There was a little sizzle in the upper mid - gone now
There was a little sizzle in the upper mid - gone now
Zobel that's exactly what I needed here (Michael C. made suggestions) I tried a few, just clipped them in.
Not hating this 12uf and 3.3 R
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Just had to find out how this would work in HT 
It's a lot of speaker for $30 woofers and $32 tweeters. Cost of xo TBD.
I did find this link Michael: "ORIOLE" (W5-704 + RT1C) Bookshelf by AmpsLab
Very nice, almost wish I hadn't; I do like 13 liter boxes and may be next project.
It's a lot of speaker for $30 woofers and $32 tweeters. Cost of xo TBD.
I did find this link Michael: "ORIOLE" (W5-704 + RT1C) Bookshelf by AmpsLab
Very nice, almost wish I hadn't; I do like 13 liter boxes and may be next project.
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Just had to find out how this would work in HT
It's a lot of speaker for $30 woofers and $32 tweeters. Cost of xo TBD.
I did find this link Michael: "ORIOLE" (W5-704 + RT1C) Bookshelf by AmpsLab
Very nice, almost wish I hadn't; I do like 13 liter boxes and may be next project.
I think the xover could be better designed. He uses a local BSC filter, and you therefore have an excessive parts count. Not that the driver set isn't possible, as it would likely work okay. Also, the topend droop is not visible in his plots of the RT, and he uses a peaked BW filter for the transfer funtion. Not the best in terms of implementation.
Later,
Wolf
Less part count, a couple of thoughts:
The Vifa tweeter sounds great, nice detail, etc. so not much work needed there. I did try reversing the leads, ugh didn't like that at all.
The woofer has a breakup near the xo point (actually they both do) so a second order filer is out. Back on post 71, tried a 1.8/7uf 2nd order and ultimately ended up with a woofer that was heavy on bass and an odd midrange. I'm sticking with the 3rd order xo.
Have a pair of 3.9uf Clarity Caps, going to try replacing the 6.2uf. (tweeter)
Busy Bee Pic
The Vifa tweeter sounds great, nice detail, etc. so not much work needed there. I did try reversing the leads, ugh didn't like that at all.
The woofer has a breakup near the xo point (actually they both do) so a second order filer is out. Back on post 71, tried a 1.8/7uf 2nd order and ultimately ended up with a woofer that was heavy on bass and an odd midrange. I'm sticking with the 3rd order xo.
Have a pair of 3.9uf Clarity Caps, going to try replacing the 6.2uf. (tweeter)
Busy Bee Pic
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When you tame the woofer breakup, then balance the the levels again, you will need to keep the phase we found. An 8 dB dip at crossover is just not a good thing. What you are hearing now is it is unmasking other issues. The XT25 REALLY needs to be crossed over more like 3K. That makes the notches for the woofer all the more critical. I know some will argue, but a Zobel on the woofer will not do as much good as the notches. You are running into a basic problem. A woofer that can get down low enough just can't reach the Vifa. The Vifa is batter suited to a three way or to a smaller woofer, like a mini-monitor 4 incher that can get that high.
The lesson from yesterday is that measurement can hone in on issues really quick, but it does not solve them. Every fix leads to the next problem.
As it is 27 in my workshop, not doing any cabinet work myself today.
The lesson from yesterday is that measurement can hone in on issues really quick, but it does not solve them. Every fix leads to the next problem.
As it is 27 in my workshop, not doing any cabinet work myself today.
8 dB dip at crossover sounds sooooo... depressing; would the distance from the woofer/tweeter make a difference? It's closer now - less than an inch; they do sound a bit lighter/chipper now.
Again thanks to Michael for suggesting this, it's been a great project AND they sound great. Even as a xo noob I can tell there was a lot of thinking behind the design
*
Vifa XT25 and mini woofer, sound likes the center I'm using in HT
(looks like they added Leap xo design and graph on link - 2,500hz)
The Madisound Speaker Store
Again thanks to Michael for suggesting this, it's been a great project AND they sound great. Even as a xo noob I can tell there was a lot of thinking behind the design
*
Vifa XT25 and mini woofer, sound likes the center I'm using in HT
(looks like they added Leap xo design and graph on link - 2,500hz)
The Madisound Speaker Store
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