Candidates for ELF performance?

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Hi crazycody1993,

Have you read the articles on Rod Elliot's website?

I run a couple of Pioneer TS-SW1041D 10" low-profile subs in separate enclosures using one of the P48a PCBs, being powered by a 2x300W class-D amp. It works very well and is easy to build.

Sub-Woofer Controller

P48 Sub-Woofer Controller (Rev-A)

col.

Funny that you mention that! (; it's where the idea came from! :D

I'm working on finishing up a pass F5, and after I was done I want to build a subwoofer!

But Walter, I imagine that 18 was very impressive! But I'm keeping my eyes open on subwoofers. I was thinking maybe a Dayton reference series? I haven't had the chance to look up the lab 12 yet. But I do like the prices on the reference drivers!
 
Art..Subs in the kitchen. I like your style :D
Just one 8" BR sub in the kitchen, but there is a sub in the home theater, sub in the control room, sub on the back deck, sub in the travel trailer, subs in the casita, subs in the portable sound systems, subs in the van, subs in the boat, subs in the shop, but no sub in the bedroom.

And no plans for one there, bedrooms are for sleeping and related activity, if I want musical accompany I can turn on one of the other systems ;).
 
So cool! to hear someone that knows they want a sub, and has one for every system they own!

And unfortunately as a teenager, still in school, and at home, my bedroom is for a little more then just sleeping! so i want to enjoy my time in there!

Although 25Hz extension is cool, for the majority of pop (and even techno, D&B, and rap ) music flat to 35-40 Hz is good enough.

My kitchen sub, using some cheap 8" Radio Shack woofer in the corner in a ported box 18" x 13" x 13" is flat to below 40 Hz, and requires only 1/4 the power to be louder than my living room sub using 2 x12" in a sealed box about four times the volume.

You won't need to spend a lot of money to make yourself happy and wee off your parents.

I'd advise you to look on Craig's list, there are a lot of decent car subs now, and every day some clown wants something that can be heard for four blocks instead of two, and sells the old for half or 1/4 the cost.
Do a slow sine wave sweep before you buy used.

When summer comes around, I' ll be doing that myself, need to fill two more holes in a shop sub I blew up testing, and the patio sub is loaded with some terrible whimpy magnet (free) drivers that are a bit of an embarrassment.
That said, having a few cheezy speakers around makes you appreciate the good ones more ;) .

Art
 
I was thinking anywhere in those lines would work. I have a d3 10 in my truck and really really like it.
If you like it, then it is good for you.
Your truck will exhibit more "cabin gain" (which boosts VLF) than your room, unless your room happens to be as small as the truck cabin.
The D3 series don't have low Fs in the smaller sizes.

The D6 go a bit lower, and have a lot more Xmax.

The D9 look pretty serious (look up D9 Caterpillar, you will see what they are going for), if you got one of them and later move in to a bigger space you could put it in a tapped horn and get around 10 dB more output from a much bigger box.

I have never heard of these drivers before, but if they meet specs and sound good and the price per Vd is good, they look fine, but there are lots of drivers with lower FS available that will play lower in small boxes.
 
Caterpiller is an amazing company. The best part is, the D9 isnt the last one they make (; Cat builds dozers up to a D11, but i've only ever seen a D8 in person, and what a machine they are!

There are a few D9's available for purchase, with not all that big of a pricetag.
Diamond audio is one of those places that builds good equipment, but dont think that extravagent prices are necessary!

Do you think the D6 would be best for a small enclosure with a lot of power, or would the D9 be a better candidate? I do like the idea of a D9 in a tapped horn though! right now i'm just trying to keep overall size a little smaller, My bedroom is small! just not '84 extracab Toyota small (;

I haven't looked to see if they are different yet, but being that they have a very similar Magnet structure the hex pro looks a lot like the D9

http://www.diamondaudio.com/manuals/hex_pro_subwoofer_manual-2008.pdf

Maybe just a name change? or small revisions at the same time?

either way, Ive got my 10 in a ~.75 ^3ft. box, and it plays awesome! i think the only dillema with it playing into the really low extension is i'm a little short on power i think, and the driver is what i would think to be very close to the listening position. so once you get low enough, its more of just a severe shaking inside the vehicle, and not so much a note. if that makes any sense?
 
Do you think the D6 would be best for a small enclosure with a lot of power, or would the D9 be a better candidate?
so once you get low enough, its more of just a severe shaking inside the vehicle, and not so much a note. if that makes any sense?
Your amp could be clipping, the driver could be running out of excursion, the cabin walls could be flexing.
D9 is better than the D6. You have to decide whether it is worth the extra $$.

Download Hornresp, or some other simulation program, decide on the largest box size you can live with and compare drivers.

Hint: low Fs will play lower, higher Fs will play louder, higher Bl less boom, more punch.
Memorize Hoffman's Iron Law.

Have fun,

Good Luck!
 
I dont think the amp is clipping, because i'm not getting any funny noises out of it, which i think eliminates excursion limits? but i could be wrong. The sub's cabinet walls are not flexing, but i know the truck's do!

Well, I'm all about SQ. i'm not trying to build a theater, just a sub! But the idea of being expandable, is awesome. So if a D9 is something i can take from the bedroom and turn into a respectable theater sub, awesome! that's what i'll do! there isnt a huge price difference in drivers, more so in amplification.

And i actually really do like the idea of longevity, and keeping the same thing for quite a while

But even this i feel is pretty reasonable for what it offers.
Dayton Audio SPA1000 1000W Subwoofer Plate Amplifier 300-809
It even has a an EQ for a specified frequency! seems like it should be a good candidate? I'm not opposed to building something myself though. Although the specs dont seem like the best. am i correct?
 
I dont think the amp is clipping, because i'm not getting any funny noises out of it, which i think eliminates excursion limits? but i could be wrong. The sub's cabinet walls are not flexing, but i know the truck's do!
there isnt a huge price difference in drivers, more so in amplification.

And i actually really do like the idea of longevity, and keeping the same thing for quite a while

But even this i feel is pretty reasonable for what it offers.
Dayton Audio SPA1000 1000W Subwoofer Plate Amplifier 300-809
It even has a an EQ for a specified frequency! seems like it should be a good candidate? I'm not opposed to building something myself though. Although the specs dont seem like the best. am i correct?
Different amps sound different when they clip. If you run sine wave tones in to your truck sub, and it does not exceed Xmax, yet sounds distorted, that could mean it is ether a poor driver, or the amp is clipping or the truck cabin walls are flexing and making noise, or all of the above.
Take the cabinet out of the truck to isolate what is going on if you are curious.

The Dayton amp specs are not great, and I have no idea how it sounds, though they seem to be fairly popular. The feature set looks useful, but my preference is to have basic power amps and a DSP processor.

On the cheap, a good used tuner with a sub output and a loudness contour and tone controls will do fine.
 
Would building my own class D amp to power it be worth the effort and time?
I have built hundreds of speaker cabinets, I would not consider building an amp.
Used amps are cheap, what is your time worth?

I use DBX DriverackPa units for DSP.
For home stereo you might check out the MiniDSP, though it requires computer interface for adjustment from what I gather, not something I like.

As far as amps, they deliver differing power in to differing impedance.
1000 watts at 8 ohms is a much different amp than one delivering 1000 at 2 ohms.

A Crest CA 9 can deliver around 1000 per side into 2 ohms, and 900 in to 4.

A mono SpeakerPower SP-4000 plate amp can do 4000 at 2 ohms, 2400W/4, 1300W/8, and it weighs only 7 lbs.

Both are similar $ per watt. Both sound quite good.
As does my Technics receiver.
 
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