the walton audio/angela amp is a good start.
You could always leave room for modification of the driver stage (eg by using a separate removeable driver chassis plate)which is obviously what differentiates the 300b amps.
So.. you can start on the angela/walton to get your hands wet -with efficient speakers and good otp it will be never less than good.BUT you must really take care about having very efficient speakers.The 300b does not like to be stressed!
Then if this set up is not to your liking you can substitute driver stages.
However this means you should have a more flexible driver voltage to take into account srpp etc so ideally a power txfmr with a separate tap giving at least 480-500v after separate rectification/smoothing would help.
Otherwise i would suggest a similar project but using 6c33 tubes which are cheap enough and have double the power.I think the 300b is slightly overhyped.You can get excellent results with 6c33.Just look at those super high end Lamm amps.
You could always leave room for modification of the driver stage (eg by using a separate removeable driver chassis plate)which is obviously what differentiates the 300b amps.
So.. you can start on the angela/walton to get your hands wet -with efficient speakers and good otp it will be never less than good.BUT you must really take care about having very efficient speakers.The 300b does not like to be stressed!
Then if this set up is not to your liking you can substitute driver stages.
However this means you should have a more flexible driver voltage to take into account srpp etc so ideally a power txfmr with a separate tap giving at least 480-500v after separate rectification/smoothing would help.
Otherwise i would suggest a similar project but using 6c33 tubes which are cheap enough and have double the power.I think the 300b is slightly overhyped.You can get excellent results with 6c33.Just look at those super high end Lamm amps.
http://www.lammindustries.com/PRODUCTS/Ml11descr.html
well 6c33 needs less voltage and lower imp otp txfmr but driver requirements are the same.
If you look thru the web you will find many schematics for this tube.
well 6c33 needs less voltage and lower imp otp txfmr but driver requirements are the same.
If you look thru the web you will find many schematics for this tube.
calico88 said:
I really doubt it... You could try Stereophile and read reviews on different tube amps for comparison.
Hi,
interesting informations here:
http://www.high-endaudio.com/RC-Amplifiers.html#Oth
regards.
Alain.
interesting informations here:
http://www.high-endaudio.com/RC-Amplifiers.html#Oth
regards.
Alain.
ooooh, arthur salvatore 
Ok, here is a simple amp
This is my 10Y/50/300B amplifier using 5842/417A driver. It is *definitely not the best* and has much room for improvement. But this is a good start. I like this better than the Walton (but you can also see my JE Labs 300B on his site) and the Audio Note.
You have to take what I said with a drum of salt
The voltages shown is for the 5U4-G, but the B+ will be bumped up to 420V if you change the rectifier to 5AR4. You don't need to use the Lundahl, the are cheaper alternatives out there.
If at a later time you wanted to change the driver, then you already have a foundation for building block as mentioned above.
Your call...
Ok, here is a simple amp
This is my 10Y/50/300B amplifier using 5842/417A driver. It is *definitely not the best* and has much room for improvement. But this is a good start. I like this better than the Walton (but you can also see my JE Labs 300B on his site) and the Audio Note.
You have to take what I said with a drum of salt
The voltages shown is for the 5U4-G, but the B+ will be bumped up to 420V if you change the rectifier to 5AR4. You don't need to use the Lundahl, the are cheaper alternatives out there.
If at a later time you wanted to change the driver, then you already have a foundation for building block as mentioned above.
Your call...
Attachments
lndm said:i_should_coco, I went out and did exactly as you suggested, and I find I am lost for words. I could have fallen out of my chair. Thanks *very* much.
Great to hear!
I take it you mean the 46? - it definitely does it for me, and I know a few other folk really like it too. How would you describe the sound? To me it has that rich, full-bodied tone with that I love.What sort of circuit are you using it in?
Cheers,
Pete
Yes, I mean the 46. I picked up 4 NOS.
From line, I had 2 stages of 6sn7 (Brimar) followed by GEC kt66 parallel single ended pairs. I replaced the second 6sn7's with 46's. I had some gain to spare which was fortunate.
I agree that the sound is rich and full bodied, I find it very special.
While I was waiting for the devices to arrive, I was imagining that they might sound rich and warm, but maybe too warm and tubby. But no. They are rich, but not overpowering at all. They are also very articulate, very revealing.
I am running them with Rp=10k, Ia=14mA and a bypassed Rk. They drive a grid resistor of 100k. I plan to try a smaller grid resistor on the output stage, or even a choke in their place.
The 6sn7's were a competent driver, but I often trust my first impressions and I don't think I could go back.
From line, I had 2 stages of 6sn7 (Brimar) followed by GEC kt66 parallel single ended pairs. I replaced the second 6sn7's with 46's. I had some gain to spare which was fortunate.
I agree that the sound is rich and full bodied, I find it very special.
While I was waiting for the devices to arrive, I was imagining that they might sound rich and warm, but maybe too warm and tubby. But no. They are rich, but not overpowering at all. They are also very articulate, very revealing.
I am running them with Rp=10k, Ia=14mA and a bypassed Rk. They drive a grid resistor of 100k. I plan to try a smaller grid resistor on the output stage, or even a choke in their place.
The 6sn7's were a competent driver, but I often trust my first impressions and I don't think I could go back.
Agree 100% with your comments - it just has the right balance of sweet & crisp. That's why I go on about it so much 
I also tried the 45, and that was just too smooth.
I remember when I first tried DHTs (as drivers for KT88) - I was expecting warm & sweet, but got this utter clarity instead What a shock that was!
Not tried grid chokes myself (yet), but the general consensus seems to be that they improve things over resistors, but I agree that a smaller resistor could be good too. I transformer coupled mine, which works well for me - I preferred it to LC or RC, but that's another story! I also preferred un-bypassed cathodes (as long as you take into account the change in Rp, of course).
BTW, I'm also a *big* fan of the Brimar 6SN7s, but I reckon they're some of the best. Everyone hunts the Sylvanias & Tung-Sols, so they slip under the radar a bit.
Keep us posted on any further experiments you do.
Cheers,
Pete
I also tried the 45, and that was just too smooth. I remember when I first tried DHTs (as drivers for KT88) - I was expecting warm & sweet, but got this utter clarity instead
What a shock that was! Not tried grid chokes myself (yet), but the general consensus seems to be that they improve things over resistors, but I agree that a smaller resistor could be good too. I transformer coupled mine, which works well for me - I preferred it to LC or RC, but that's another story! I also preferred un-bypassed cathodes (as long as you take into account the change in Rp, of course).
BTW, I'm also a *big* fan of the Brimar 6SN7s, but I reckon they're some of the best. Everyone hunts the Sylvanias & Tung-Sols, so they slip under the radar a bit.
Keep us posted on any further experiments you do.
Cheers,
Pete
arnoldc said:Alain is right. Before you dabble with 300B, those things must be considered.
In my experience too, the 300B is one "colourful" amp and making them neutral sounding could be a challenge.
And I'm afraid there is no "best" as our preferences differ. We can only give you the "usual suspects"
gNFB will fix that.
hi Cal, you can't build the 'best' amplifier first time.
It takes a bit of experience and practice to know what sounds good.
All 300b amps I have heard are dependant upon the drivers and output transformers, AND power supply, too.
You will have to try a few driver stages to see what you like.
Keep it simple.
srpp and its variaton, mu, mu is very good. use 6sl7, 1k resistors, 390 volts plate or so. dead easy for starters.
cascading 6sn7 is good, bit thick and slow, but lively, good gain. audionote, je labs, reichert, sun audio, lots of circuits, angela, walton, its from the williamson circuit.
cascode, didn't like(triode trying to be a pentode)
pentode driven, very good.
gain and cathode follower didn't like.
not tried high mu triodes, some like, some don't.
aikido, I tried a linestage, dead easy to build, but to clean for me, you may like it.
It takes a bit of experience and practice to know what sounds good.
All 300b amps I have heard are dependant upon the drivers and output transformers, AND power supply, too.
You will have to try a few driver stages to see what you like.
Keep it simple.
srpp and its variaton, mu, mu is very good. use 6sl7, 1k resistors, 390 volts plate or so. dead easy for starters.
cascading 6sn7 is good, bit thick and slow, but lively, good gain. audionote, je labs, reichert, sun audio, lots of circuits, angela, walton, its from the williamson circuit.
cascode, didn't like(triode trying to be a pentode)
pentode driven, very good.
gain and cathode follower didn't like.
not tried high mu triodes, some like, some don't.
aikido, I tried a linestage, dead easy to build, but to clean for me, you may like it.
it cdr data,
sorry for late reply, well at least I try my best for beginner.
what's srpp ? brand ?
i have 400V schematic, 6sn7 (EH) best one? what do you think if I use this brand ?
I will get TJ gold, baloon.
cost me US$ 250 apair. looks good bargain.
afraid to buy thi expn. lamp but I love it.
may be try to get chepaest one/used just for trial/testing...
just a stupid questions to ask:
1. what's choke for ? what happned without it ? is it a must ?
I'm waiting a car smps for my tube car 300B but no choke for 400V output.
2. why need choke ?
3. how many option to make choke ?
I can;t find any choke 101 ...
regards
cal
sorry for late reply, well at least I try my best for beginner.
what's srpp ? brand ?
i have 400V schematic, 6sn7 (EH) best one? what do you think if I use this brand ?
I will get TJ gold, baloon.
cost me US$ 250 apair. looks good bargain.
afraid to buy thi expn. lamp but I love it.
may be try to get chepaest one/used just for trial/testing...
just a stupid questions to ask:
1. what's choke for ? what happned without it ? is it a must ?
I'm waiting a car smps for my tube car 300B but no choke for 400V output.
2. why need choke ?
3. how many option to make choke ?
I can;t find any choke 101 ...
regards
cal
srpp stands for shunt regulated push pull
Its an arrangement of the 6sl7 tube, where you put one on top of the other, mu is a higher gain version of this, and in my and other opionions, sounds better, and gives more gain, too.
as opposed to a cascAde, which is one feeding into the next.
CascOde is a triode trying to be a pentode.
Its ok, but there are better circuits.
I think you probably need a choke in a single ended circuit, it filters the power supply ripple, 2 would be even better.
You really need to do some reading if you don't know what these terms are, these are BASIC.
400volts smps?
where?
that should do fine, but I would like to check it first...its not a 'normal' power supply, but you won't need a choke in there for that.
purists would scoff, but I reckon it would be great.
If you are going to do a regular power supply, I need to know where you are to get chokes, hammond are fine, go for 100 or more milliamps and 10 henries plus
get the EH gold grid 300b's, best sound per pound, or dollar if you are that way inclined
Its an arrangement of the 6sl7 tube, where you put one on top of the other, mu is a higher gain version of this, and in my and other opionions, sounds better, and gives more gain, too.
as opposed to a cascAde, which is one feeding into the next.
CascOde is a triode trying to be a pentode.
Its ok, but there are better circuits.
I think you probably need a choke in a single ended circuit, it filters the power supply ripple, 2 would be even better.
You really need to do some reading if you don't know what these terms are, these are BASIC.
400volts smps?
where?
that should do fine, but I would like to check it first...its not a 'normal' power supply, but you won't need a choke in there for that.
purists would scoff, but I reckon it would be great.
If you are going to do a regular power supply, I need to know where you are to get chokes, hammond are fine, go for 100 or more milliamps and 10 henries plus
get the EH gold grid 300b's, best sound per pound, or dollar if you are that way inclined
here is 6sl7 in a mu configuraton.
To change this to srpp, just remove the 10k, 10 meg and small capacitor on the 6sl7
http://www.triode-systems.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=85
It will get you started very nicely, probably the easiest beginner circuit.
To change this to srpp, just remove the 10k, 10 meg and small capacitor on the 6sl7
http://www.triode-systems.com/modules/myalbum/photo.php?lid=85
It will get you started very nicely, probably the easiest beginner circuit.
hi,
I suggest use single triode push 30B SE with most better, although the dynamic less than pentode or SRPP, But more detail & colourful but crystal sound.
I choose EC52 caps couple to 300B.
If IT wil choose E180CC IT( 15~20K:15~20K 1:1 IT) to 30b SE.
for reference.
this website in hong kong had 300B course & use my products.
newbie like more different brand tubes to exchange.
so I choose back to 6sn7. but my kit still use EC52-300B.
http://www.hififever.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=802
this is a chinese website, pls see the link that many student use my kits.
kits was fully use potted trans , ebony chassis & double c-core OPT.
http://www.hififever.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=783
pls see the output, 19H & 102ohm only.
thx
thomas
I suggest use single triode push 30B SE with most better, although the dynamic less than pentode or SRPP, But more detail & colourful but crystal sound.
I choose EC52 caps couple to 300B.
If IT wil choose E180CC IT( 15~20K:15~20K 1:1 IT) to 30b SE.
for reference.
this website in hong kong had 300B course & use my products.
newbie like more different brand tubes to exchange.
so I choose back to 6sn7. but my kit still use EC52-300B.
http://www.hififever.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=802
this is a chinese website, pls see the link that many student use my kits.
kits was fully use potted trans , ebony chassis & double c-core OPT.
http://www.hififever.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=783
pls see the output, 19H & 102ohm only.
thx
thomas
Attachments
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.