#
Not really, TDL called them 'Reflex Transmission line' basically there vented but with a particularly long vent, not as long as a TL but longer than a traditional port.
Come to think of it there was a little dip in the upper bass prior to the mods and youre right, ive probablly just made it more aparrent due to the bass now going deeper than before. I'll have a fiddle whith the stuffing.....
As regards the tweeter Caps, definateley need upgrading, the Morels deserve the best. I'll maybe do the Caps first and see if the treble still sounds too bright.
Thanks for the input on the op-amps, Im pretty sure what im gonna do with the CDP now.
Any idea about upgrading my CA 340SE Amp? I thinking Alps motorized pot, Blackgates, Spower Regs.....
Thanks to all for your advice so far!
mikesnowdon said:
I use 4tc that I got for a good price off ebay. Simon and Brent both use 8tc I think. I also use kimber interconnects and agree with Simon, the sound is very natural and unforced, it may help tone down a bright system.
I also found my diy cat5 network cable speaker cable far better than the QED silver stuff.
Lee.
This CAT5 sounds interesting. I found a website that gives iunstructions on braiding an 8 stranded 'Rope braid' like the kimber 8TC:
http://www.saroftreve.com/wwl/braiding/8round.shtmlhttp://www.saroftreve.com/wwl/braiding/8round.shtml
This could be done with CAT5 or if I could find simmilar wire to that used in the 8TC, does anyone know?
Getting back to the CDP, Ive made a shopping list:
Stage 1, £82.00
This Clock With This voltage Regulator
Stage 2, ca. £45.00
For the dac supply; S Power Regulator, Blackgate Caps
Stage 3, £75ish?
Regulator for the op-amps, better op-amps (Not sure sure which yet)
Stage 4, £?
Bitumen lining, Solid Copper RCA'S, Silver wire. Maybe add a 5mm Ally plate to the bottom of the Chassis and some spiked feet.
Should add up to a £1K+ CDP beater! (Or am I dreaming)
What do you reckon?
http://www.saroftreve.com/wwl/braiding/8round.shtmlhttp://www.saroftreve.com/wwl/braiding/8round.shtml
This could be done with CAT5 or if I could find simmilar wire to that used in the 8TC, does anyone know?
Getting back to the CDP, Ive made a shopping list:
Stage 1, £82.00
This Clock With This voltage Regulator
Stage 2, ca. £45.00
For the dac supply; S Power Regulator, Blackgate Caps
Stage 3, £75ish?
Regulator for the op-amps, better op-amps (Not sure sure which yet)
Stage 4, £?
Bitumen lining, Solid Copper RCA'S, Silver wire. Maybe add a 5mm Ally plate to the bottom of the Chassis and some spiked feet.
Should add up to a £1K+ CDP beater! (Or am I dreaming)
What do you reckon?
OFF TOPIC - speaker cable
I use DNM Reson, which is a £7/m cable, solid core, teflon dielectric. Nothing special and on some setups terrible, but it fits the small binding posts of my temporary messing-around speakers.
When I had a better system previously (bigger room) I used double-8TC. One whole 8TC does + and one does -. Before that I also had for a bit 4PR. The double 8TC (£80/m) was a small step up from 4PR (£5/m), being sweeter with deeper bass.
I'd say if you're not afraid of spending a little money buy 4VS or 8VS. 8TC is a step too expensive in my opinion. I wouldn't buy it again for any normal system. Use the new cable inside the speaker and to the amp.
If you want to braid CAT5, it will probably be good, but bear in mind the many hours taken and blistered fingers you'll end up with. It doesn't make much sense unless you enjoy DIY for the sake of DIY. I tried to do the 54 strand braided CAT5 once, and it took many hours and ended up too short to use. It became a mains cable for my CDP (veeery good at that to be fair).
I use DNM Reson, which is a £7/m cable, solid core, teflon dielectric. Nothing special and on some setups terrible, but it fits the small binding posts of my temporary messing-around speakers.
When I had a better system previously (bigger room) I used double-8TC. One whole 8TC does + and one does -. Before that I also had for a bit 4PR. The double 8TC (£80/m) was a small step up from 4PR (£5/m), being sweeter with deeper bass.
I'd say if you're not afraid of spending a little money buy 4VS or 8VS. 8TC is a step too expensive in my opinion. I wouldn't buy it again for any normal system. Use the new cable inside the speaker and to the amp.
If you want to braid CAT5, it will probably be good, but bear in mind the many hours taken and blistered fingers you'll end up with. It doesn't make much sense unless you enjoy DIY for the sake of DIY. I tried to do the 54 strand braided CAT5 once, and it took many hours and ended up too short to use. It became a mains cable for my CDP (veeery good at that to be fair).
mikesnowdon said:
Brent's C1 clock and SPower regulators are terrific value for money, and just terrific. I have two C1s in my Marantz CD63 and they perform excellently (better than my old Audiocom DVC-1 and much cheaper!) So "stage 1" of clock and reg is a fine start. It will probably take the player to £600+ levels.
Stage 2 should make the sound much more believable, smooth and detailed. Do you have the version with one DAC or two??
Stage 3 will also bring large changes, and will really change the flavour depending on which opamp you go for. S Powers on good op-amps will not change their character too much (in my experience) but will bring a little more detail, transient attack and smoothness. All round improvements I'd say.
I think by now you'll be around the £1000 mark in terms of perceived sound quality/value.
Solid copper phonos will be lovely, but why risk adding brightness with silver wire? And if you're using silver, why not use solid silver phonos? I would. I'm looking at some for my CDP in fact.
I think these mods are along the right lines, but are there also some psu diodes that need changing to schottky or HEXFRED types? Or are they a good type already?
Another good idea would be to run the new clock regulator off an additional, small transformer.
I also can't see any mention of output coupling caps. You must jumper these out (if you're running it into a normal [capacitor-coupled] amp) or replace with a good cap - ClarityCap, polypropylene in oil (ask Lee, these are lovely!), Black Gate N, Black Gate AC, or Mundorf Silver/Gold (if you win the lottery)... Output coupling caps will be robbing the sound of dynamics, detail, treble clarity and quality bass.
Simon
Does anyone have ideas on modding the 340SE Amp or know of a good thread?
Cambridge Audio Azur 340SE
Cambridge Audio Azur 340SE
mikesnowdon said:
Hi Mike, it'll be in the input stage. And you can be pretty damn sure it is coupled, because it is a mainstream product, and I've yet to see one that isn't.
I simply bypassed the output caps in the v1, but I'm not sure if the v2 has any dc on the output, you're best measuring to make sure. if you do need blocking caps, the Black Gate Nx's have a good value/performance ratio.
Cheers, Lee.
More photos here:
http://www.23hq.com/2007snowdon
Let me know what you think having seen inside the player.
Thanks in advance!
http://www.23hq.com/2007snowdon
Let me know what you think having seen inside the player.
Thanks in advance!
Cheers Lee.
So they need changing then. Should I change the green Caps and the Blue Bypass ones? Or just the bypass ones?
I'm ordering some Hovland Musicaps for my TDL's this week so I migtht as well get some to replace the Bypass Caps in the CDP aswell. Or lose the bypass caps and change the coupling Caps? Whta do you reckon?
Do you know which opamp to replace the NE5532P? Im sure I dont need to change all 4, just the pair closest to the phonos right?
Looking at the pics can anyone advise which are the exact components to change here? Can anyone tell me where the 2 Wolfson DAC's are?
Cheers, Mike
So they need changing then. Should I change the green Caps and the Blue Bypass ones? Or just the bypass ones?
I'm ordering some Hovland Musicaps for my TDL's this week so I migtht as well get some to replace the Bypass Caps in the CDP aswell. Or lose the bypass caps and change the coupling Caps? Whta do you reckon?
Do you know which opamp to replace the NE5532P? Im sure I dont need to change all 4, just the pair closest to the phonos right?
Looking at the pics can anyone advise which are the exact components to change here? Can anyone tell me where the 2 Wolfson DAC's are?
Cheers, Mike
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.