Hi
Yes power the servo pcb with a new transformer and leave the stock one for the rest. Pick any toroidal transformer from RS, Farnel etc etc. Bigger than 50va would be ideal but check with the physical size. We use 50va because we also put in a larger tx for the rest of the unit and we have no room for larger than 50va. You might be able to get a 80va in with the standard tx still in use
regards
Brent
Yes power the servo pcb with a new transformer and leave the stock one for the rest. Pick any toroidal transformer from RS, Farnel etc etc. Bigger than 50va would be ideal but check with the physical size. We use 50va because we also put in a larger tx for the rest of the unit and we have no room for larger than 50va. You might be able to get a 80va in with the standard tx still in use
regards
Brent
Do these mods cure midrange glare and ringing?... I have the Cambridge Azur 640C V2 CDP. Listening to opera CDs are unbearable, especially Pavarotti and some Bocelli CDs. Certain piano recordings @700-1000Hz have this glare. I've used 4 different pairs of speakers in different rooms - it's the same.
My system is Odyssey Tempest Extreme Preamp, Odyssey Dual Mono Stratos Amp, Stock 14AWG PC, AudioQuest Copperhead IC, and DIY Scan-Speak Illuminator 13in 3-way speakers. Bi-amp the bass driver with a Behringer EP2500 amp delivering 450W/ch.
Thanks
My system is Odyssey Tempest Extreme Preamp, Odyssey Dual Mono Stratos Amp, Stock 14AWG PC, AudioQuest Copperhead IC, and DIY Scan-Speak Illuminator 13in 3-way speakers. Bi-amp the bass driver with a Behringer EP2500 amp delivering 450W/ch.
Thanks
I actually have the V1, not the V2. Stock regulators are 7815, and 7915. But the Fidelity Audio Mod has 12V transformers and 12V regulators. Shouldn't they all be 15V?...
Instead of using 120VA and 50VA transformers, would it be comparable to use a single 180VA transformer instead?...
Instead of using 120VA and 50VA transformers, would it be comparable to use a single 180VA transformer instead?...
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Hi
The Cambridge does suffer from the problems you describe to a point and yes upgrading these players works towards eliminating it. I would suggest the biggest issue in your system (or at least joint issue) is with your amplifier.
We use 12V transformers in the upgrade as this gives us 16.8V dc. Running a slightly lower voltage before the regs and also from the regs themselves helps with heat issues and capacitor choice. This helps make the player more reliable long term.
1x 180VA transformer would not fit inside the player + isolating the voltage rails is very important to eliminate cross pollution of noise.
The Cambridge does suffer from the problems you describe to a point and yes upgrading these players works towards eliminating it. I would suggest the biggest issue in your system (or at least joint issue) is with your amplifier.
We use 12V transformers in the upgrade as this gives us 16.8V dc. Running a slightly lower voltage before the regs and also from the regs themselves helps with heat issues and capacitor choice. This helps make the player more reliable long term.
1x 180VA transformer would not fit inside the player + isolating the voltage rails is very important to eliminate cross pollution of noise.
Thank you, Brent. I've been wondering about my Preamp. Its gain is very high and I've had glare from other CDP and MP3 devices. I'll experiment with power cords and IC too.
Thanks again for the great information. You've been so forthcoming and helpful to everyone here.
Evening all,
Just picked up a cheap Cambridge Audio Azur 640C from eBay with a mind to fixing it and building a relatively cheap (but OK) Stereo set up. I purchased it as non working and I'm trying to get the bottom of exactly what is wrong, as follows:
1. CD tray opens and closes - seemingly as normal.
2. No light emitted from laser whatsoever, and disk does not spin.
Screen displays --- --- message as if it's attempting to read the disk, but nothing happens. I was initially going to order a replacement laser, but I've never opened a device where there was no light from the laser at all?
I whipped the transport out and tested it in a Cambridge Audio Topaz CD5, and the laser spindle mechanism moved as expected, therefore I believe the fault must lie with the servo board?
Are there any common components that tend to fail on these units?
I've previously fixed and owned a CD 63 KI Sig & PM-66 KI Sig a few years back with help from this forum, but they had to be sold when I found myself out of work - hence the current build on a budget. Now I have a little bit of cash to invest, if I can get this is up and running, I plan on spending a few quid on some upgrades as per the thread.
Many thanks in advance,
Adam
Just picked up a cheap Cambridge Audio Azur 640C from eBay with a mind to fixing it and building a relatively cheap (but OK) Stereo set up. I purchased it as non working and I'm trying to get the bottom of exactly what is wrong, as follows:
1. CD tray opens and closes - seemingly as normal.
2. No light emitted from laser whatsoever, and disk does not spin.
Screen displays --- --- message as if it's attempting to read the disk, but nothing happens. I was initially going to order a replacement laser, but I've never opened a device where there was no light from the laser at all?
I whipped the transport out and tested it in a Cambridge Audio Topaz CD5, and the laser spindle mechanism moved as expected, therefore I believe the fault must lie with the servo board?
Are there any common components that tend to fail on these units?
I've previously fixed and owned a CD 63 KI Sig & PM-66 KI Sig a few years back with help from this forum, but they had to be sold when I found myself out of work - hence the current build on a budget. Now I have a little bit of cash to invest, if I can get this is up and running, I plan on spending a few quid on some upgrades as per the thread.
Many thanks in advance,
Adam
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