Cabinet Building Technique of the Fanatics

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Re: Here on this site, do a search

mikee55 said:
http://www.readresearch.co.uk/
http://sound.westhost.com/

Heres two good places. Searching chucks up loads of info.

Don't forget to come back and tell us what you built.

Cheers Mike:)
Thanks Mike. Searching is how I found this thread. Unfortunately, I'm at work right now, so I don't really have time to read through lots of stuff. But I promise I'll make time to search more thoroughly this weekend.

Rest assured I'll share my results with everyone. This is my first try, so it might take me a little while. Plus I have almost NO free time during the week, between work, the gym and Kenjutsu, I'm always busy.

My plan is to make the box look like a little end table with a dark brown veneer to match my furniture. I was thinking of even putting a false drawer on it to match the table it will be sitting next to.
 
Hi darien87

Glad to help, although others here will help you more. I'm still learning myself. Lots to be learnt, I just built a Sealed box and its a Linkwitz Transform jobby. This makes for a small sub, and the Linkwitz Transform is an e.q. that allows the driver some serious bass for a small box, I'm using a cheap 12"car driver from SPLX and its tuned for 20hz. I had a lot of help from richie00boy on here, (Readresearch), he helped me measure the drivers T/S parameters and then I sized my box and tuned everything up. I haven't got an amplifier capable of some power, so I'm using a car amplifier and powering it off a PC powersupply.
Cheers Mike

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
It is...

...230watts, gives 7 amps if I remember right. The protection light comes on and I get a squeak come from the woofer, apparently its underpowered. If you sit in the same room, (5m x 4m x 2m) it booms round the room, travel round the house and you can get a sense that its reaching low. I've had a pair of Goodmans Magnum K2 which have 12" woofers and they didn't do much physical, yes they had a good bass, but not like this. Go upstairs above the room and the floorboards are going for it.

Its mad, can't wait to get myself a serious amp:D
 
Hmm.....

....when I grow up, I want to be
 

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arrr

it is nice to know im not the only one to be using car subs.

right now im using a direct x sub

300rms i made a slot port as well like a car tuned to 30 hurts

18mm mdf.... only thing i think i should have done is brace (never done) new to diy) as on lower end films like the heart beat on Pirates of the C 2 the box tends to vibrate alot . music and most film it does sound really good

i use a BK 500rms plate amp.. had been down the line of psu and car amp but it far cheaper for me and more power to just get the plate amp :) as UK car amps are probable more money

i also have 2 JL 10w6v1 what silly really as i like ported and found out there not the best for that hehe
was thinking about tuning and making box for that as well but unless i go slot port using a forums site where it gives u details of each bit wood u need and how goes together.

also will proble just go down the line of the bk monolith sub and then get help for the box

i just enjoy trying to design and all that bits even though i still have lots to learn
 
i used a car forums site that just made slot port only

it is very simple to use.
just choose the size of the speaker (10inch) and fill in its details

then choose what hz u want e.g 30 and then u can adjust the width
and height.
then other bits u can play around with like the size u want

it shows you what it looks like and gives all the details of sizes or wood and how it would look
shame it does not do the same for pipe vent ..


Net Volume: 1.3 cubic feet
Tuning Frequency: 30 Hz
Port Width: 1.5 inches
Port Area: 18 Square Inches
Port Length: 38 inches

what i went with.
another time would need to brace i think and dunno for home audio if round pipe type ports are better
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
The single best tip i have on building a subwoofer is to always use a pair of woofers in push-push. The active vibration cancellation goes a long way towards reducing the energy put nto the box. Then all you need to worry about is that the box walls do not pump because of the changes of pressure in the box.

Panel resonances can easily be pushed way out of band where they will not be excited. In this sense a very heavy box is actually counter to the goals (and if you use push-push you no longer need the box mass to stop the woofer from walking)

Here are some general guidlines for increasing panel resonance frequency

> decreasing length and width raise the frequency
> decreasing mass raises the frequency
> increasing thickness raises the frequency
> increasing MOE raises the frequency
> increasing internal (airspace) damping will slightly lower the frequency

There is a dynamic thread that has evolved into talking about box construction philosophies which has some relevant information for this thread)

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=98834

dave
 
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