Hi Mike,
Soldering sm components is simply a feel for the work and the right tools. I use a 2.5 mm tip on my controlled temperature soldering station. Solder wick, solder flux (for electronics), a solder sucker (the large ones with recoil) and dental picks will make your life much easier.
The main concept here is to avoid damaging the traces on the PCB. The next important task to to avoid overheating the components as you solder them on.
So, remove the original part using the solder sucker to remove any large amounts of solder. If there are only pins soldered, then a light coat of soldering flux and using the wick, remove the solder from the pins. You need to work smoothly without applying heat too long. My iron is set for 300 °C. Once most of the solder is removed, gently insert the solder pick under the first leads and apply heat from the soldering iron until the lead releases form the PCB, continue along the side of the IC until that side is free. Repeat for the other side, on the last side, you may find that running heat back and forth will allow you to tip the IC up. This frees the last side easily.
Once the IC is removed, use some more flux and the wick to gently clean all solder from the traces. Do not apply downward pressure with your iron as the traces are very delicate. Clean everything up with flux remover. I use lacquer thinner on a cotton swab. Once clean, inspect for damage and repair any you find. Then, apply more flux around the now clean pads and set the new part on. Align the pads carefully and tack solder opposing pins to anchor the part. Then begin by using small amounts of solder and your iron. Any excess solder should be removed with a little flux and the wick. Clean all deposits of flux with your flux remover and cotton swabs. When you are done, the job should look like it is factory perfect. Once again, inspect for damage, solder bridges and dry joints.
The best way to learn is to practice on old stereo PCBs, computer pcbs can be good victims but those boards are normally higher quality. You also need to practice on low quality PCBs.
I do have a hot air station as well, and do use it when there is a lot of work to do. Again, practice is the key to success. If you do search on the web, there should be places that give you information. Be aware that there are different methods that are just as good, but the key factors are to protect the PCB and not to damage the new part.
I have had to cut the leads off some ICs with a Dremel and cut off wheel. Then the leads are removed a few at a time. Lead free solder is more difficult to work with.
-Chris
Soldering sm components is simply a feel for the work and the right tools. I use a 2.5 mm tip on my controlled temperature soldering station. Solder wick, solder flux (for electronics), a solder sucker (the large ones with recoil) and dental picks will make your life much easier.
The main concept here is to avoid damaging the traces on the PCB. The next important task to to avoid overheating the components as you solder them on.
So, remove the original part using the solder sucker to remove any large amounts of solder. If there are only pins soldered, then a light coat of soldering flux and using the wick, remove the solder from the pins. You need to work smoothly without applying heat too long. My iron is set for 300 °C. Once most of the solder is removed, gently insert the solder pick under the first leads and apply heat from the soldering iron until the lead releases form the PCB, continue along the side of the IC until that side is free. Repeat for the other side, on the last side, you may find that running heat back and forth will allow you to tip the IC up. This frees the last side easily.
Once the IC is removed, use some more flux and the wick to gently clean all solder from the traces. Do not apply downward pressure with your iron as the traces are very delicate. Clean everything up with flux remover. I use lacquer thinner on a cotton swab. Once clean, inspect for damage and repair any you find. Then, apply more flux around the now clean pads and set the new part on. Align the pads carefully and tack solder opposing pins to anchor the part. Then begin by using small amounts of solder and your iron. Any excess solder should be removed with a little flux and the wick. Clean all deposits of flux with your flux remover and cotton swabs. When you are done, the job should look like it is factory perfect. Once again, inspect for damage, solder bridges and dry joints.
The best way to learn is to practice on old stereo PCBs, computer pcbs can be good victims but those boards are normally higher quality. You also need to practice on low quality PCBs.
I do have a hot air station as well, and do use it when there is a lot of work to do. Again, practice is the key to success. If you do search on the web, there should be places that give you information. Be aware that there are different methods that are just as good, but the key factors are to protect the PCB and not to damage the new part.
I have had to cut the leads off some ICs with a Dremel and cut off wheel. Then the leads are removed a few at a time. Lead free solder is more difficult to work with.
-Chris
Hi Mike,
It is felt that a +3 dB increase in power is just noticeable unless you are doing an A-B test. Just doubling your power (+ 3 dB) will not really be that big a difference. Going to a different design that may deliver more current may sound like more power, but you will really need to more than double your power to hear a worthwhile difference. Consider that + 10 dB sounds twice as loud. You can figure out the logs yourself on this. Diminishing returns.
If you really want much more volume, consider more efficient speakers that have more bass extension naturally. Larger speaker systems are normally more efficient than smaller systems. If you add a more powerful amplifier, eventually you will reach a situation an acquaintance of mine did.
This fellow wanted ridiculous sound pressure. The system I sold him was a pair of Klipsch La Scala speakers, 104 dB / watt !!!!!. The amplifier for the system was a Carver PM 1.5, that's 375 real watts per channel into 8 ohms. The room was small as he sat within 2 meters from each speaker. The loudness was sufficient to cause hearing damage, but he still complained of system hiss. No kidding! There are times you just can not win, I warned him of the substantial hiss he would hear. It turned out that he was a very happy lad and accepted the hiss (unavoidable). I don'r know if he is deaf or not by now.
-Chris
Both Puffin and valleyman gave you the correct answers. There will be very little difference but possibly a feeling of greater control in the bass. Hardly any real differences will exist though.
It is felt that a +3 dB increase in power is just noticeable unless you are doing an A-B test. Just doubling your power (+ 3 dB) will not really be that big a difference. Going to a different design that may deliver more current may sound like more power, but you will really need to more than double your power to hear a worthwhile difference. Consider that + 10 dB sounds twice as loud. You can figure out the logs yourself on this. Diminishing returns.
If you really want much more volume, consider more efficient speakers that have more bass extension naturally. Larger speaker systems are normally more efficient than smaller systems. If you add a more powerful amplifier, eventually you will reach a situation an acquaintance of mine did.
This fellow wanted ridiculous sound pressure. The system I sold him was a pair of Klipsch La Scala speakers, 104 dB / watt !!!!!. The amplifier for the system was a Carver PM 1.5, that's 375 real watts per channel into 8 ohms. The room was small as he sat within 2 meters from each speaker. The loudness was sufficient to cause hearing damage, but he still complained of system hiss. No kidding! There are times you just can not win, I warned him of the substantial hiss he would hear. It turned out that he was a very happy lad and accepted the hiss (unavoidable). I don'r know if he is deaf or not by now.
-Chris
Chris,
Many thanks for the informative and amusing posts. I'm sure the guy is considering his next upgrade, probably PA Speakers and a 5k amp so he can hear it.
As I said I'm not interested in volume or SPL. And I'm happy with my speakers. The produce very deep bass which has a lovely natural quality to it. I'd like it to be a touch tighter though. That is my only negative, everything else they do is really good actually. Of course they are modded and they out-perform the stock version by a considerable margin IMHO. I have no intentions to replace them. Actually there are some more mods planned to improve the cabinet structure (a more inert cabinet will tighten up the bass a bit) and I plan to hard wire the XO too. According to the manufacturer's specs they have "87dB at 1m for 1 watt " sensitivity.
Rgds,
Mike.
Many thanks for the informative and amusing posts. I'm sure the guy is considering his next upgrade, probably PA Speakers and a 5k amp so he can hear it.
As I said I'm not interested in volume or SPL. And I'm happy with my speakers. The produce very deep bass which has a lovely natural quality to it. I'd like it to be a touch tighter though. That is my only negative, everything else they do is really good actually. Of course they are modded and they out-perform the stock version by a considerable margin IMHO. I have no intentions to replace them. Actually there are some more mods planned to improve the cabinet structure (a more inert cabinet will tighten up the bass a bit) and I plan to hard wire the XO too. According to the manufacturer's specs they have "87dB at 1m for 1 watt " sensitivity.
Rgds,
Mike.
I think you know what my source is. Do you think it could be the reason my bass isnt as tight as I would like?
-/+ 15v spower regs on opamp supply (470uF BG STD after regs).
5v spower on clock supply.
Rubycon ZLH's on DAC digital and clock supply.
BG STD on DAC analogue.
Oscon SP - DAC decoupling.
5w Kiwame resistors on output.
LM4562 op-amps with 10uF BG STD local decoupling.
Planning a separate PSU for the clock and some Pana FC main PSU caps soon. I have some shottkey diodes waiting to go in too. I might change out the Kiwames for something more appropriate. Due to their size the leads are rather long.
(Wouldnt it be funny if I missed the "b" key when typing the word "bass"!!)
-/+ 15v spower regs on opamp supply (470uF BG STD after regs).
5v spower on clock supply.
Rubycon ZLH's on DAC digital and clock supply.
BG STD on DAC analogue.
Oscon SP - DAC decoupling.
5w Kiwame resistors on output.
LM4562 op-amps with 10uF BG STD local decoupling.
Planning a separate PSU for the clock and some Pana FC main PSU caps soon. I have some shottkey diodes waiting to go in too. I might change out the Kiwames for something more appropriate. Due to their size the leads are rather long.
(Wouldnt it be funny if I missed the "b" key when typing the word "bass"!!)
How many different amps, CD player's or systems have you tried it in? It could be that it just sounds that way in combination with the rest of your gear or the room having an adverse effect maybe?
I didn't spend a fortune on mine. I think so far I spent about £180. One of the things that's improved is the bass got tighter and better defined. There's more detail and the sound is less harsh - smoother.
I think the issue lies in my speakers IMHO. The RTL has a reputation for this and apparently likes lots of power to keep it's bass well controlled. I have heard tighter bass but its not really that bad. While borrowing an 840A It sounded much better which was probably due to the extra power.
Mike.
I didn't spend a fortune on mine. I think so far I spent about £180. One of the things that's improved is the bass got tighter and better defined. There's more detail and the sound is less harsh - smoother.
I think the issue lies in my speakers IMHO. The RTL has a reputation for this and apparently likes lots of power to keep it's bass well controlled. I have heard tighter bass but its not really that bad. While borrowing an 840A It sounded much better which was probably due to the extra power.
Mike.
Hi Mike,
Life can be funny. My acquaintance discovered the limits of the human body and man-made structures. At least he didn't blow the woofers like another person I know of did.
If you take the time to figure out the maximum spl (above the speaker rating), you'll see that a number of these speakers and a full amp rack would be the only way to be louder.
Puffin has made some more good points here. There is the character of the amplifier that has much to do about the amount of damping that is applied to a speaker. It's not just the damping factor but the ability to dump current as well. So amplifiers with equal rated power can control a speaker in a completely different way. Part of this might be related to how many output devices are connected in parallel and whether the gain falls quickly with current. You can't tell from looking at the chip.
-Chris
Life can be funny. My acquaintance discovered the limits of the human body and man-made structures. At least he didn't blow the woofers like another person I know of did.
If you take the time to figure out the maximum spl (above the speaker rating), you'll see that a number of these speakers and a full amp rack would be the only way to be louder.
Puffin has made some more good points here. There is the character of the amplifier that has much to do about the amount of damping that is applied to a speaker. It's not just the damping factor but the ability to dump current as well. So amplifiers with equal rated power can control a speaker in a completely different way. Part of this might be related to how many output devices are connected in parallel and whether the gain falls quickly with current. You can't tell from looking at the chip.
-Chris
Just getting back to post 508.
I seem to recall complaining at first (after the mods) about the bass being weaker that when the player was stock. After a few days burn in and some proper listening I noticed that what had actually happed is the player was now producing better defined bass. It wanst that there was lees, it was just not so obvious because it blended in to the music properly and sounded natural.
I seem to recall complaining at first (after the mods) about the bass being weaker that when the player was stock. After a few days burn in and some proper listening I noticed that what had actually happed is the player was now producing better defined bass. It wanst that there was lees, it was just not so obvious because it blended in to the music properly and sounded natural.
Hi Mike.
1. I noticed, that 340A has "lightweight" bass too. I compared 340A and HArman AVR347 and harman has more powerful bass. Speakers was MA Silver RS6.
AI also read one review\test of low-cost amps (300-500$) and author noticed that too.
2. Two days ago i received post-report I think it's your caps. It has some mistakes in surname, but i think it's not serious problem. Tomorrow I'll got'em.
P.s. I listened my amp more carefully with headphones and.. it has noticeable buzzing at high volume. But it's noticeable only with HP and when music is stopped.
I think You will better start new DIY LM Amplifier project. 340A is a good amp, it has very good case, good build-quality, good remote control, and good sound at all.
But it has a lot of "features", which makes tweaking not so effective...
1. I noticed, that 340A has "lightweight" bass too. I compared 340A and HArman AVR347 and harman has more powerful bass. Speakers was MA Silver RS6.
AI also read one review\test of low-cost amps (300-500$) and author noticed that too.
2. Two days ago i received post-report
I think it's your caps. It has some mistakes in surname, but i think it's not serious problem. Tomorrow I'll got'em.P.s. I listened my amp more carefully with headphones and.. it has noticeable buzzing at high volume. But it's noticeable only with HP and when music is stopped.
I think You will better start new DIY LM Amplifier project. 340A is a good amp, it has very good case, good build-quality, good remote control, and good sound at all.
But it has a lot of "features", which makes tweaking not so effective...
I've noticed HK amps often tend to have fairly beefy bass.
I definitely think lm3886 has fairly meagre bass too though. It depends on implementation of course and I have heard a few now. With the correct implementation it is possible to achieve enough bass, but i don't think these chipamps can achieve the sort of plump bass I have heard from some SS amps (eg HKs) or tripath chips. At the end of the day though it does come down to personal preference.
I definitely think lm3886 has fairly meagre bass too though. It depends on implementation of course and I have heard a few now. With the correct implementation it is possible to achieve enough bass, but i don't think these chipamps can achieve the sort of plump bass I have heard from some SS amps (eg HKs) or tripath chips. At the end of the day though it does come down to personal preference.
Hi Puffin.
I don't understand you post, are you referring to your 'new source component' or the 640C? £20 for what?
Stream,
Good news about the caps and diodes! I hope you find that they improve the bass.
Valeyman,
I agree with you. I have my eye on a pair of Hypex modules and a relay controlled input selector/attenuator from Dantimax.dk (I worked out that I can get it to work with the 340A microcontroller). I'm still going to see what I can squeeze out of the CA with the stock PCB and LM3886 but at some point I want to whip out all the internals and do a proper DIY amp. Or make the CA into a good preamp and build a couple of
I don't understand you post, are you referring to your 'new source component' or the 640C? £20 for what?
Stream,
Good news about the caps and diodes! I hope you find that they improve the bass.
Valeyman,
I agree with you. I have my eye on a pair of Hypex modules and a relay controlled input selector/attenuator from Dantimax.dk (I worked out that I can get it to work with the 340A microcontroller). I'm still going to see what I can squeeze out of the CA with the stock PCB and LM3886 but at some point I want to whip out all the internals and do a proper DIY amp. Or make the CA into a good preamp and build a couple of
A most unlikely item and one that I think suffered for looking a bit poncy and therefore was not to be taken seriously, an Audio Innovations CT1, You know the spaceship looking thing.
It was broken when I got it, Bridged a couple of relays and got it working and couldn't believe how good it was (IMO of course)
It was broken when I got it, Bridged a couple of relays and got it working and couldn't believe how good it was (IMO of course)
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