Hi everyone,
I've got a BA3 complementary output full set, stuff to built it with dual mono supply.
I've already got a 2U and 4U cases (300mm depth).
I don't know how to built it:
-should I use the 2U case for the power supply and the 4U case for the BA3 full set, phono board, inputs selector and volume controller ?
-or should I use the 2U case for the BA3 FE board, phono board, inputs selector and volume controller (and their own power supply) and the 4U case for the BA3 complementary output and bias board and power amp supply ?
Thanks for your advises (...no I can't buy a 5U case)
Damien
I've got a BA3 complementary output full set, stuff to built it with dual mono supply.
I've already got a 2U and 4U cases (300mm depth).
I don't know how to built it:
-should I use the 2U case for the power supply and the 4U case for the BA3 full set, phono board, inputs selector and volume controller ?
-or should I use the 2U case for the BA3 FE board, phono board, inputs selector and volume controller (and their own power supply) and the 4U case for the BA3 complementary output and bias board and power amp supply ?
Thanks for your advises (...no I can't buy a 5U case)
Damien
I would use the larger case for the Power amp and locate it between the speakers to minimise the speaker cable length.
I would use the smaller case as a pre-amp and volume controller and locate it near where you sit to listen to your audio.
If your sources can drive the interconnects they can be located near the volume controller, or at a more remote location.
I would use the smaller case as a pre-amp and volume controller and locate it near where you sit to listen to your audio.
If your sources can drive the interconnects they can be located near the volume controller, or at a more remote location.
I Only need to wire bias boards to output boards (I piggy backed them onto output boards like 6L6 did in his BA-3 build thread), solder in Mosfets, hook transformer to soft start, soft start to switch and I should be ready to fire up. Stopping by hardware store on way home for last of screws, washers and nuts...it may happen this evening. If not, by this weekend!
Russellc
Russellc
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While mine is not yet completed, everyone that has built one has indicated that the more quiet the power supply for the front end, the better. It seems that the preferred method is using a well-regulated power supply. No harm in trying a CRC and see how it works for you if you already have the parts on hand.
BA-3 Front End Soft-Start?
If I may interject, did you add a soft start circuit to the BA-3 FE that you're building, or are you adding it to your (First Watt) power amp? If you're adding to the BA-3, is that to prevent initial turn-on surge currents to prolong the life of the power supply filter caps and /or to reduce speaker thumps?
If you added a soft-start circuit to your BA-3 FE, would you care to post the schematic, or suggest another one for me to add to my build?
If I may interject, did you add a soft start circuit to the BA-3 FE that you're building, or are you adding it to your (First Watt) power amp? If you're adding to the BA-3, is that to prevent initial turn-on surge currents to prolong the life of the power supply filter caps and /or to reduce speaker thumps?
If you added a soft-start circuit to your BA-3 FE, would you care to post the schematic, or suggest another one for me to add to my build?
On the BA-3 Power Amp, yes, I used the soft start just like 6L6 did in his build thread. I didnt use one on the pre amp version. The power amp version is the one in the DIYStore.
Russellc
I've been at it all day, FE of power Amp is set and burned in for an hour, like the one I built for the Pre amp, after being set at .750 volt, it crept up to .780 during the hour burn in.
Now all the mosfets are soldered in, just need the ground speaker wires to power supply ground, run the line from"D" pads on the FE boards to the bias board and fire up time again!
I did measure for continuity between mosfets and heat sink, guess the Kertherms were not punctured!
Russellc
Now all the mosfets are soldered in, just need the ground speaker wires to power supply ground, run the line from"D" pads on the FE boards to the bias board and fire up time again!
I did measure for continuity between mosfets and heat sink, guess the Kertherms were not punctured!
Russellc
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I would like to share some information on my BA-3 SE build. When I first did some serious listening I could not see that much difference in the sound than my Aleph 30 I just recently built, in fact I detected a little bit of harshness in the female vocals much like an A B amplifier. I knew it had to be in the front end because there is not much that could be wrong with the output stage with so little parts. In the front end there is not much except one capacitor per channel and it could also be some fake transistors. I once even bought some fake 2sk170 transistors from a seller in the USA. I used a polypropylene 10uh Dayton capacitor that was left over from some crossover builds and I decided to change that first with some Elna Silmic 11. The harshness was gone and the soundstage really opened up as good as my tube preamp. I would have never thought that there was that much difference in the sound of capacitors. Give the Elna a try, Nelson thinks real highly of them and he should know.
David
David