Wire-wounds ARE COOL !!! ( especially the big ones, with small loads ! ).
Interesting to read Mr. Morgan Jones's comments on WW's of recent...
...very low value one's do have a VERY small inductance...he say's ( a few uH's )...
...ie. like Variac says...the one's people use in PSU's.
Larger one's...according to Morgan Jones...have very little inductance at all...
...ie. over 1/4K or so...series signal-path ones, loads etc.
Heat-cycle on a low oven-temp, with that pizza warm-up...BINGO...stable values, low noise...&...err...PIZZA !
What could be better than that...
...love 'em both.
BBA-3 looks 'tasty' as well !
Cheers
Si.
Interesting to read Mr. Morgan Jones's comments on WW's of recent...
...very low value one's do have a VERY small inductance...he say's ( a few uH's )...
...ie. like Variac says...the one's people use in PSU's.
Larger one's...according to Morgan Jones...have very little inductance at all...
...ie. over 1/4K or so...series signal-path ones, loads etc.
Heat-cycle on a low oven-temp, with that pizza warm-up...BINGO...stable values, low noise...&...err...PIZZA !
What could be better than that...
...love 'em both.
BBA-3 looks 'tasty' as well !
Cheers
Si.
official boards are avaliable through the diyAudio store. FE boards here --> P-BAGSN-1V20 - Burning Amplifier Gain Stage for BA-3 (Requires bias boards and output stage; Makes 2 channels; Rev 2.0) - Burning Amplifier Series - Power Amplifiers - PCBs though I am red/green colourblind, I'm pretty sure the boards are red 
Tony.
Tony.
Something weird happening with my BA-3
I'm having a curious problem with one channel of my BA-3...
Thanks,
tim
I'm having a curious problem with one channel of my BA-3...
- When I turn the amp on, the left channel will often appear to be dead.
- If I turn up the volume (passive unit before the BA-3), the sound will suddenly turn on.
- If I then turn it back down to a normal level, it continues to play, but it will sometimes just go off again later.
- The same remedy will bring it back on again.
Thanks,
tim
I agree. The F4 seems fine. The BA-3 is my preamp gain stage in conjunction with a passive select/attenuator box.
The problem only occurs with the BA-3 in circuit.
Tim
We ran into this sort of problem in mixing consoles in live sound, it usually ended up being either (1) a cold solder joint, (B) a loose or dirty connector, (III) a capacitor, or (d) a wiper making bad contact in a potentiometer.
Maybe look at the electrolytic caps on that channel of the BA-3 board. Also give the preamp the "slap test", see if physical stimulus affects the problem.
yeah, give a good slap and tell it to behave
sorry, couldn't resist it ....have a picture been posted ?
ah ! look at your pot then
yeah, give a good slap and tell it to behave
sorry, couldn't resist it ....have a picture been posted ?
ah ! look at your pot then
I get the same behavior with two different passive preamps, so I don't think it's the pot. I think it's probably a bad solder joint - the BA-3 is sensitive to being slapped. But I've tried resoldering a couple of times and I can't see any bad joints. Need to try again, I guess.
Today for some reason it's been stable and great to listen to...I guess it's been reading my posts and fears for its life
First picture is of the two units closed; second is the BA-3 and third is its power supply. The BA-3 is configured as a gain stage, following a passive preamp, and preceding my stereo F4.
tim
Attachments
Once you catch it when it's dead, check the voltages on R3, R4 (~80mV), and R10, R11 (~1V) to see if you have current flowing through those elements. If it's alive but still no sound, maybe a bad RCA connection or something, or a solder joint as you said. An o-scope would be real useful at that point if you had access to one.
I get the same behavior with two different passive preamps, so I don't think it's the pot.
Today for some reason it's been stable and great to listen to...I guess it's been reading my posts and fears for its life
then it could be your interconnects
nice amps
I also have a 'cap question'
lytic cap should be 1000uf
would 1200uf be ok
(I have those in 35V)
they'll be 1,2x better
(or maybe even 1,44x )
I can also get...
It is all a matter of taste!
The Clarity Caps PWA type Nelson shows, are a good choice, one of my friends was still more enchanted by the ESA types of Clarity Caps.
........endless game!
I’m the mentioned friend of generg.
Yes I use the Clarity Caps PWA in the BA3 and BBA3, after comparing different PP-foil caps.
The PWA is on my opinion one of the best values for money in NP-designs.
The ESA types are still my favorites due to a bit more punch in the bass and slightly smother trebles, but due to space limitation on the board I decided to use the PWA and I don’t regret it.
Yes I use the Clarity Caps PWA in the BA3 and BBA3, after comparing different PP-foil caps.
The PWA is on my opinion one of the best values for money in NP-designs.
The ESA types are still my favorites due to a bit more punch in the bass and slightly smother trebles, but due to space limitation on the board I decided to use the PWA and I don’t regret it.
