Fosti said:
Good choice on the DN-A7100. I've wanted to try one out for a couple years now, but still haven't bought one. Instead, I have a basically brand new Outlaw 990 sitting in its box going to waste for the last couple years. After all this time though, that Denon is still on my mind. I should just hurry up and sell the Outlaw, take my losses, and buy the Denon, lol. I just like everything about it better.. the Outlaw has tons of stuff that the Denon doesn't have, but I don't need any of them, whereas the Denon has a thing or two that the Outlaw doesn't that I'd definitely use.
tomtom said:
One thing that I always do in the rooms that I build is dampen the wall behind the speakers as much as possible. This then is virtually the only HF damping that I use in the room. Thus, any rear wave sound appears to be undesirable. In this vein then I would say that the further away the better.
There is no "baffle step" tuning. That whole concept is ill-defined. I build the crossover to the in-situ driver configuration and hence all box diffraction is already accounted for.
Fosti said:@ pjpoes: At least engineers working in an R&D department are doing both: research --> scientific, development --> engineering work
only so far: I understand Maxwell's equations and know why they don't need a relativistic adjustment like the fundamental mechanical laws
You didn't answer my question Fosti. What is your particular field and what is your education in.
Pics as promised
Below are two photos of my Nathans in their primed state, just before color paint (which will be red).
Obviously cabinet fit is not an issue as the corners show no signs of this what-so-ever.
Below are two photos of my Nathans in their primed state, just before color paint (which will be red).
Obviously cabinet fit is not an issue as the corners show no signs of this what-so-ever.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
markus76 said:
The edges of the MDF absorb a lot of material. But I would not use a sealer until all the edges have been sanded, and small holes and gaps have been filled and sanded. In other words the finish should be very close to the final surface. Paint on the waveguide won't affect anything if it is thin. Not much paint will get down the throat unless you do it deliberately so this is not a big problem. You do have to clean the waveguides well however as the mold release left on the surface will not take paint unless it is completely removed.
Of course all holes have to be filled before and during applying any sealer. In former projects I used just acrylic paint and got good results. But you have to apply a lot of coats and sanding because of the MDF soaking up a lot of paint at the cutting edges. One trick is to sand those edges and leave the sanding dust on the cutting edges so they help in filling up holes.
For my Nathans I'll use a sanding sealer and maybe let an auto shop do the top coating.
What do you recommend to remove mold release from the waveguide?
Best, Markus
I think any strong cleaner like acetone or alcohol will work.
I have always wondered if an autobody shop would paint the cabinets for me. Let me know if this works out for you.
A sealer or primer is intended to fill absorbing issues and so a lot less coats are required. I can fill the edges, and I've done this before, in one coat with epoxy filled with talc and then thined with acetone. This can just be painted on with a brush, sanded smooth and that joint will never absorb anything again. The epoxy primer that I use is basically this same thing, but the filler is iron oxide instead of talc.
I have always wondered if an autobody shop would paint the cabinets for me. Let me know if this works out for you.
A sealer or primer is intended to fill absorbing issues and so a lot less coats are required. I can fill the edges, and I've done this before, in one coat with epoxy filled with talc and then thined with acetone. This can just be painted on with a brush, sanded smooth and that joint will never absorb anything again. The epoxy primer that I use is basically this same thing, but the filler is iron oxide instead of talc.
Re: Re: Re: paint
Acrylic gets very hard, but it takes a long time. You have to let it dry for at least five days before you can polish it. And then you have to be careful of the polish as many polishes are solvent based and will soften the finish. This will cause problems. But the water based wolrd has come a long ways.
DrumDude said:
Acrylic gets very hard, but it takes a long time. You have to let it dry for at least five days before you can polish it. And then you have to be careful of the polish as many polishes are solvent based and will soften the finish. This will cause problems. But the water based wolrd has come a long ways.
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