Building a symmetrical PSU B1 buffer

Sorry Andrew, maybe i was'nt clear in my question...What i was trying to ask was, is this the correct place for Main Audio Star Grounding? RegiRegi22 Told me to connect the CL60 inbetween the two main filter caps...however you replied saying "The Main Audio Star Ground can be after a short link from the main smoothing cap Zero Volts. Even 1mm of short link would do the job properly." So i quoted that and attached the pic, to ask if this was the correct place to link the CL60 to?

Thanks

Alon
 
As I thought, completely unrelated.

The CL60 is a Safety issue. It is done to protect users and visitors from harm. It is NOT used to allow Audio to pass.

The separation of PSU ripples and grunge from Amplifier main Audio Ground is all about trying the get the best Audio signal through. Absolutely nothing to do with Safety.

The Chassis is connected permanently to the PE (third wire in the mains cable). This is what I have been calling the Safety Earth to avoid ambiguity.

All exposed conductive parts must be connected (eventually) to the Safety Earth. You could do that at the speaker return terminal, or at the CT of the mains transformer, or at the RCA nut clamping the input socket. But this must be able to pass fault current approaching and in worst case exceeding kA to PE and continue to do so until after the fuse has ruptured and the arc extinguished.
This is an onerous condition. I have tested a bridge rectifier direct on line to pass this Fault current. I have not tested a CL60 to this standard.
 
Ok Thanks Andrew for the explanation, however i am still a little lost:confused:

Malka, your audio ground and your main star ground are already connected between them. Just connect the main ground to the chassis through a CL-60, thus both grounds are tied.

Could sombody please draw me a diagram, so that i can see where the main ground is? I find pictures much easier to follow then txt.

Thanks

Alon
 
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The small one too. Try rotation and angles/distance. If their field is a factor it will be obvious by changing the background buzz.

P.S. You are running a long 240VAC primary twisted pair diagonally across the chassis I saw. You can mount the little Tx to the right and perpendicular at least.
 
Hi Richard, I did'nt get a chance to play around with it today...too busy and feeling lazy...but i did listen to some music, and the hum and buzz is very quiet...can only be heard with my ear right up near the speakers...still would be nice to have it dead silent.

How are you getting on with your hum problem?

Alon
 
Hi Richard, I did'nt get a chance to play around with it today...too busy and feeling lazy...but i did listen to some music, and the hum and buzz is very quiet...can only be heard with my ear right up near the speakers...still would be nice to have it dead silent.

How are you getting on with your hum problem?

Alon

Your hum sounds very much like my...hum. Sooner or later everyone will want one, just you wait!

I'm about to try Fran's copper bar to see if that helps.