Salas,
I used your method of checking each LED and then strining them together; however what I did before putting them into the proto Hypnotize board was to stick them in a breadboard and checked the entire string. However I was still using a 9v battery as the source; since mine worked first time with no chatter etc I was happy that each string was correct.
However I did wonder whether I should have used say a 12v battery.
Dealing with the strings as a whole seems to me to be more accurate - provided that the method is correct.
Alan
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Hi,
two 8LED strings will need 16 LEDs.
There will be a small variation between the Vf of the LEDS, probably <20mV.
What is your tolerance on the total 8LED string voltage?
I suspect you don't need any extra LEDs to get a pair of strings with matching <5mV. But, what matching tolerance does the circuit need? +-20mV or +-50mV or +-100mV?
two 8LED strings will need 16 LEDs.
There will be a small variation between the Vf of the LEDS, probably <20mV.
What is your tolerance on the total 8LED string voltage?
I suspect you don't need any extra LEDs to get a pair of strings with matching <5mV. But, what matching tolerance does the circuit need? +-20mV or +-50mV or +-100mV?
If you really want to know the final total Vf don't use more than 3 with a 9V at a time. Jot down, add next 3 to the sum.
Hi Salas,
I have the Mesmerize board and in the process of collecting parts. I was wondering if I could use the regulated supply from the board to feed a chip based phono pre (vsps)? will it effect the B-1 in any way or Iam better off with a seperate regulated supply for the phono. I think I need to adjust the 68R resistors if I run the phono too.
thanks,
Dinesh
I have the Mesmerize board and in the process of collecting parts. I was wondering if I could use the regulated supply from the board to feed a chip based phono pre (vsps)? will it effect the B-1 in any way or Iam better off with a seperate regulated supply for the phono. I think I need to adjust the 68R resistors if I run the phono too.
thanks,
Dinesh
If you need only a low current, you can tap off a secondary supply after the main smoothing capacitors, i.e. before the CCS of the regulators.
This will have less effect than tapping off after the regulators.
Even less effect if you tap off before the smoothing capacitors. This is where the relay supply comes from.
This will have less effect than tapping off after the regulators.
Even less effect if you tap off before the smoothing capacitors. This is where the relay supply comes from.
Newbie question (just to be sure).
I have some diodes lying around and I wonder if I can use them.
The relay needs an 1N4001 according to the BOM and I have some 1N4007. Can I use the 1N4007 instead? I checked the datasheet and could not see an objection (a bit overrated, ok).
Instead of the MUR120 I have some Vishay SF4007 and some Schottky SB1100. The Schottky's are rated for 100V, is that too low? The Vishay's look ok, a bit overrated again? I guess the diodes won't affect the sound too much...
Thanks,
Jeroen
I have some diodes lying around and I wonder if I can use them.
The relay needs an 1N4001 according to the BOM and I have some 1N4007. Can I use the 1N4007 instead? I checked the datasheet and could not see an objection (a bit overrated, ok).
Instead of the MUR120 I have some Vishay SF4007 and some Schottky SB1100. The Schottky's are rated for 100V, is that too low? The Vishay's look ok, a bit overrated again? I guess the diodes won't affect the sound too much...
Thanks,
Jeroen
i think 1N4007 will not make problem
i use 1N4004 for Mezmerize
and for MUR subtitution i think no problem too.
LOW ? i use 1N5819 (only 40 Volt) and until now no problem
T-Bag DCB1 build
So I thought I would share my humble building skills so others don't feel embarrased to show there's.
Here is a photo of the DCB1 guts, and the unit running in a chassis, a recycles network WAN router chassis. Radio Shack knobs.
I did run the wires a bit shorter before enclosing, and chucked the female connectors.
Happy building.
So I thought I would share my humble building skills so others don't feel embarrased to show there's.
Here is a photo of the DCB1 guts, and the unit running in a chassis, a recycles network WAN router chassis. Radio Shack knobs.
I did run the wires a bit shorter before enclosing, and chucked the female connectors.
Happy building.
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Very nice. I like it.
Is that an extra small red capacitor in the top right hand corner of your picture?
And it sometimes shows that English is not my native language, in this case I don't know what you mean by: "... chucked the female connectors." Discarded ... nah? ... but what?
I am still waiting for enclosure inspiration, and waiting, and waiting.
Is that an extra small red capacitor in the top right hand corner of your picture?
And it sometimes shows that English is not my native language, in this case I don't know what you mean by: "... chucked the female connectors." Discarded ... nah? ... but what?
I am still waiting for enclosure inspiration, and waiting, and waiting.
So I thought I would share my humble building skills so others don't feel embarrased to show there's.
Here is a photo of the DCB1 guts, and the unit running in a chassis, a recycles network WAN router chassis. Radio Shack knobs.
I did run the wires a bit shorter before enclosing, and chucked the female connectors.
Happy building.
Hi Grufti. I had trouble myself with the friction connectors (the white things on inputs). I got rid of them and did some direct soldering to the male lugs. I guess if I were to do it over, I would use just 24-28ga wire to the pcb, because I dont have a good handle on those things.
The red thing is a PRP resistor, used between the outputs, which I use up to 3. I've heard it can help with noise between amps. There is not one on the mid/upper range amp.
The red thing is a PRP resistor, used between the outputs, which I use up to 3. I've heard it can help with noise between amps. There is not one on the mid/upper range amp.
Tea-Bag,
Thank you for putting up your DCB1 photos. You and Robert Pease build fine bird nests. If I can do as well I will be happy.
I stumbled into this DCB1 late. I am still not totally sure where the buffer fits into the chain of components for my fellow DIYers. This thing has a voltage gain of one. It has “low” output impedance. It has a current gain greater than 1. Toss in an attenuator and a selector switch that makes it better than a passive preamplifier. If it will swing several volts I will screw it down to a bread board and try it as a driver for a vacuum tube Single End Triode. The vacuum tube amplifier on the bread board does not need voltage gain, just current.
Where are you all using this thing?
DualTriode
Thank you for putting up your DCB1 photos. You and Robert Pease build fine bird nests. If I can do as well I will be happy.
I stumbled into this DCB1 late. I am still not totally sure where the buffer fits into the chain of components for my fellow DIYers. This thing has a voltage gain of one. It has “low” output impedance. It has a current gain greater than 1. Toss in an attenuator and a selector switch that makes it better than a passive preamplifier. If it will swing several volts I will screw it down to a bread board and try it as a driver for a vacuum tube Single End Triode. The vacuum tube amplifier on the bread board does not need voltage gain, just current.
Where are you all using this thing?
DualTriode
My IRFP devices from ebay arrived today, 10 x IRFP9240 and 4 x IRFP240, USD$2 each, the IRFP240 look OK, but I'm not sure about the IRFP9240. They were sold to me as International Rectifier devices. My opinion only, I am concerned that the device on the left may not be the real thing. The IRFP9240 I used in the proto PCB were sourced in Australia where I live and cost AUD$8.95 each, and they have silk-screened (or printed) characters and logo, but this new lot from Hong Kong has etched characters and logo. However the IRFP240 from the same seller are not etched and look similar to the ones I sourced locally. Any comments welcome...
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