voxx - check this 2.3VA myrra 44164 transformer datasheet on farnell - make sure the pin out will fit, i'm pretty sure it will be fine.
edit: ebay links don't work now? search for : MYRRA - 44164 - TRANSFORMER, 2.3VA, 230V, 2 X 9V
By the way farnell have removed their MOQ, you can spend as much as you want but will pay a shipping fee for under £20.
if you can wait a couple of weeks i'll be getting my Tamura from mouser, i'll get you one:
3FD-316 Tamura | Mouser
Last edited:
I have 3 dac boards.
I tried soldering the reg circuits bu it seem to have a short on the +- input voltage pads.
I removed everything and still got a short on the +- input pads.
One board fried I guess.
I figure its me so I soldered one reg at a time on the second board.
first reg (u6) ok, 2nd reg (u5) bad out voltage. and another short on the +- pads.
Looked at the board and noticed that C7 has polarity marked backwards.
please confirm as I have now 2 fried boards because of this.
thanks
I tried soldering the reg circuits bu it seem to have a short on the +- input voltage pads.
I removed everything and still got a short on the +- input pads.
One board fried I guess.
I figure its me so I soldered one reg at a time on the second board.
first reg (u6) ok, 2nd reg (u5) bad out voltage. and another short on the +- pads.
Looked at the board and noticed that C7 has polarity marked backwards.
please confirm as I have now 2 fried boards because of this.
thanks
You are right, i can see now C7 is marked backwards. I had a look on my DAC in the next second but this issue is not applicable to the people who choose to install the alternate parts wich are ceramic non polar caps.
I build 3 dacs and no problems with regs. I would say a visual inspection with a min x magnifier lens is mandatory and use solder wick to take out the excessive solder.
I build 3 dacs and no problems with regs. I would say a visual inspection with a min x magnifier lens is mandatory and use solder wick to take out the excessive solder.
S**t ! You are right ! No problem for the people that use ceramic caps there but tantalum caps eventually will break or even they will short (but not right at power up) so I guess you have other troubles too. I am very sorry that an error creeped in. Just checked all my boards and I instinctively all soldered them right.
We looked many many times and did not see this mistake... My apologies, we have to add an erratum in the documentation.
We looked many many times and did not see this mistake... My apologies, we have to add an erratum in the documentation.
Last edited:
The + is the marked line on the caps (the opposite of the big alum caps which the mark is the negativ) ?
Yes - on the tantalum SMD capacitors, the bar represents the + side of the capacitor.
JP - I have a question for you. I was looking at the BOM and noticed that in the comments for C34 it says "either C31 or C34". Am I correct in thinking that you mean we should use either C31 or C34 but not both?
Thanks,
---Gary
Think it's an excelent advise... I just sold the regulator,they are so small I can't check if the side with the three pads are proof each others of soldering material ! 5 i Think it's ok cause i use a lot o flux paste + few soldering material...)
Atupi, Did you put all the caps and the resistors without the L3/4/5/6; then use the powesupply and check with voltmeter ?
Gary, it's one or the other : read before of this thread or the other about the different caps and values and the sound about neg & wolfson.
Hi Eldam,
yes soldered everything without L3,4,5,6. After all voltages checked soldered also the inductors.
Also you don't need to remove any pin of the regs even they are not connected in circuit.'
I believe you can put a strap instead of zero ohm resistors. I thonk that place was intended in case one would like to install some resistors with few tens of ohms.
yes soldered everything without L3,4,5,6. After all voltages checked soldered also the inductors.
Also you don't need to remove any pin of the regs even they are not connected in circuit.'
I believe you can put a strap instead of zero ohm resistors. I thonk that place was intended in case one would like to install some resistors with few tens of ohms.
thank you Atupi,
I just wait for 2 components from Mouser to finish !
Do you know The soldering position of the PNP in the power Supply board and the 4 pad Fox Quartz in the DAC Board ?
My understanding with C34 & C31 is Either C31 or C34 not both ! Correct ?
Is Anybody benchmark the C22 caps (AVCC pin / 100 uF) with anothers caps and value like Gary ? Organic caps ? The red Panasonic ? The purple Sanyo SEPC/F ? A Nichicon Muse Z ?
My own test : I don't like Silmic here (near dac chips) to have tweak many cd players. I have Black Gate red BG NX (non polarized) 33 uF ...Worth a try ? i wait too for the own test between SLA alum vs Organic by Jean-Paul...
A last question : why a 100 NF MKT in Powersupply just after W01G and before L1 : in my mind it's just better here to allow the noise from supply and will be better without (already a 1 uf SMD film) ?! Am I Wrong or the test were better like that ?
Why a relative fast cap with C1 : is not better ti put here a normal 1000 uF 105° cap (with standard ESR) & stay with the faster Panasonic FC 2000 uf with C2 ? It's just a question about noise filtering, not a polemic.
I just wait for 2 components from Mouser to finish !
Do you know The soldering position of the PNP in the power Supply board and the 4 pad Fox Quartz in the DAC Board ?
My understanding with C34 & C31 is Either C31 or C34 not both ! Correct ?
Is Anybody benchmark the C22 caps (AVCC pin / 100 uF) with anothers caps and value like Gary ? Organic caps ? The red Panasonic ? The purple Sanyo SEPC/F ? A Nichicon Muse Z ?
My own test : I don't like Silmic here (near dac chips) to have tweak many cd players. I have Black Gate red BG NX (non polarized) 33 uF ...Worth a try ? i wait too for the own test between SLA alum vs Organic by Jean-Paul...
A last question : why a 100 NF MKT in Powersupply just after W01G and before L1 : in my mind it's just better here to allow the noise from supply and will be better without (already a 1 uf SMD film) ?! Am I Wrong or the test were better like that ?
Why a relative fast cap with C1 : is not better ti put here a normal 1000 uF 105° cap (with standard ESR) & stay with the faster Panasonic FC 2000 uf with C2 ? It's just a question about noise filtering, not a polemic.
Last edited:
I haven't soldered up the V3 board, but I did try the cap change per Gary suggested in the v2.6. FWIW, I played the dac, before and after the change, in a tube amp set up (full range speaker) and a Aleph set up (3 ways). I can tell you that the tonal does changed, but for better or for worse, it also depends on which set up I play. However, that's also based on my own preferences.
IMHO, there is only one way to find out - try it yourself, no one is likely to have the same setup as yours. Another subjective opinion, no cap change gave me the improvement from the Salas Shunt Power Supply.
IMHO, there is only one way to find out - try it yourself, no one is likely to have the same setup as yours. Another subjective opinion, no cap change gave me the improvement from the Salas Shunt Power Supply.