Just burning up a speaker IMO = boring.
It's more fun to use a big amp maxed out to kill a speaker.
I just killed an old thrown-away 3W 4 inch full range by giving it 100W RMS. It played for a short while, started to smell, then it quit because the coil came unglued from the former and glued itself to the pole piece when it broke open.
If you had a good 300W+ or more of RMS power, that sub probably wouldn't last long. Especially if you clip the amp hard since the max watts becomes the RMS under full distortion. That would be over 600W of coil cooking power.
It's more fun to use a big amp maxed out to kill a speaker.
I just killed an old thrown-away 3W 4 inch full range by giving it 100W RMS. It played for a short while, started to smell, then it quit because the coil came unglued from the former and glued itself to the pole piece when it broke open.
If you had a good 300W+ or more of RMS power, that sub probably wouldn't last long. Especially if you clip the amp hard since the max watts becomes the RMS under full distortion. That would be over 600W of coil cooking power.
my friend reversed his pick-up over a bass amp, that worked quite well at destroying the speaker, and the box. amazingly the built in amp survived, with a broken pot being the only damage to it!
as for the pick-up... well the amp fell out the back while he was reversing down a hill. when he stopped the box was already under the diff. so he pulled up the hand brake and let go of the footbrake.
the handbrake doesn't work when the back wheels are in the air
trees work well though
as for the pick-up... well the amp fell out the back while he was reversing down a hill. when he stopped the box was already under the diff. so he pulled up the hand brake and let go of the footbrake.
the handbrake doesn't work when the back wheels are in the air
trees work well though
Did you considered that the OP is being frauded by the supplier. It is quite evident that the subwoofer is unserviceable since day one.pinkmouse said:
The woofer is not a motor. It might not burn if connected to 12VDC. However, it might detach with a quite evident damage to the cone, which is what the OP doesn't want.ppia600 said:
OFF TOPIC: (sorry)
aha, I see. I'm curious to why a dryer that works at 120V needs a 220V output though. Here in Belgium there is a total different system. Industrial dryers work at 3~380Vac. At home it's at 1~230Vac
ON TOPIC:
To destroy the sub: Send it to me, I have 3~380Vac!! LOL
I wonder what would happen if you put a large balast in series with the woofer...
aha, I see. I'm curious to why a dryer that works at 120V needs a 220V output though. Here in Belgium there is a total different system. Industrial dryers work at 3~380Vac. At home it's at 1~230Vac
ON TOPIC:
To destroy the sub: Send it to me, I have 3~380Vac!! LOL
I wonder what would happen if you put a large balast in series with the woofer...
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