I think I'm done with the system tweaking for now. Since my last post, I added a Gallo TR 2 Sub (which I stole off Audiogon). I also added the TDL Tech 6 Channel volume control. I'm very happy with it. It is very neutral and has a remote control as well as individual volume controls. Obviously, I also added alot more cables too.
I did encounter a weird issue though. Since I now have a volume control, I diabled the SmartGain feature on my Squeezebox to send a full volume signal to the BSS Crossover. I was getting weird distortion in my lower midrange afterwards. It drove me crazy. I thought I had a ground loop or something and spent nearly a week trying to figure it out. It turned out that the input signal was too high and was causing the BSS to clip at the inputs which resulted in the distortion.
I decreased the input signal gain on the BSS by 6 dB and the problem went away. Has anyone else had issues like this? I thought I should be able to send the full volume signal to the BSS without any gain adjustments. I'm happy everything is finally working properly, but I'd like to hear your input.
I did encounter a weird issue though. Since I now have a volume control, I diabled the SmartGain feature on my Squeezebox to send a full volume signal to the BSS Crossover. I was getting weird distortion in my lower midrange afterwards. It drove me crazy. I thought I had a ground loop or something and spent nearly a week trying to figure it out. It turned out that the input signal was too high and was causing the BSS to clip at the inputs which resulted in the distortion.
I decreased the input signal gain on the BSS by 6 dB and the problem went away. Has anyone else had issues like this? I thought I should be able to send the full volume signal to the BSS without any gain adjustments. I'm happy everything is finally working properly, but I'd like to hear your input.
OMG. I just got mine yesterday, for $249 delivered, and I hooked it up. Right now I'm only bi-amping, using two DIY sono-subs. They are each 6.5 cu Ft net, with the 2- Peerless CC line 260 SWR, 8 ohm (10") in each sealed cabinet. The Q = about 707 so the bass is good'n tight. The drivers are mounted side by side, push-pull, on each cabinets underside. I have them behind me. in the corners of the room, 6 ft away. I call it my bass-womb! LOL On the top end I have two Magnepan MG-3's. I was using an audio control Richter Xover, crossed at 90 hz. which I think is a 4th order Link/riley. I kept hearing a bit too much boom from them. Also, the combo wasn't optimally timed, because the Maggies are 13' away. NOW the combo sounds perfect!! I'm talking YE-HA perfect!! BECAUSE I have them crossed at 80 HZ - 48 DB/octave Link filter, high & low, and I've delayed the subs appropriately and I'm telling ya.....It's the best fricken bass I've ever had. 
I'm driving the Subs with a Threshold S-300, (300 chan @ 4 ohms) and the Maggies with an S-300E Mod, (150 chan @ 8 ohms). Both amps are over 30 watts class A, which I probably never come out of, before they switch to A/AB.
Actually, the whole reason I bought this unit, is because I do loudspeaker design with LEAP, and LMS. This way, I'll be able to mount the drivers in my latest concoction, hook up the crossover, and figure out which slopes sound the best, before I try to design any passive xover stuff. (I'll be doing a lot less passive xovers now.) Another thing I love, is you can adjust the timing down to 1 Millimeter! (For tweeter delay.)
I could go on, about how I love this unit!.......LOL
I'm driving the Subs with a Threshold S-300, (300 chan @ 4 ohms) and the Maggies with an S-300E Mod, (150 chan @ 8 ohms). Both amps are over 30 watts class A, which I probably never come out of, before they switch to A/AB.Actually, the whole reason I bought this unit, is because I do loudspeaker design with LEAP, and LMS. This way, I'll be able to mount the drivers in my latest concoction, hook up the crossover, and figure out which slopes sound the best, before I try to design any passive xover stuff. (I'll be doing a lot less passive xovers now.) Another thing I love, is you can adjust the timing down to 1 Millimeter! (For tweeter delay.)
I could go on, about how I love this unit!.......LOL
DaveThreshold said:OMG. I just got mine yesterday, for $249 delivered, and I hooked it up. Right now I'm only bi-amping, using two DIY sono-subs. They are each 6.5 cu Ft net, with the 2- Peerless CC line 260 SWR, 8 ohm (10") in each sealed cabinet. The Q = about 707 so the bass is good'n tight. The drivers are mounted side by side, push-pull, on each cabinets underside. I have them behind me. in the corners of the room, 6 ft away. I call it my bass-womb! LOL On the top end I have two Magnepan MG-3's. I was using an audio control Richter Xover, crossed at 90 hz. which I think is a 4th order Link/riley. I kept hearing a bit too much boom from them. Also, the combo wasn't optimally timed, because the Maggies are 13' away. NOW the combo sounds perfect!! I'm talking YE-HA perfect!! BECAUSE I have them crossed at 80 HZ - 48 DB/octave Link filter, high & low, and I've delayed the subs appropriately and I'm telling ya.....It's the best fricken bass I've ever had.
Actually, the whole reason I bought this unit, is because I do loudspeaker design with LEAP, and LMS. This way, I'll be able to mount the drivers in my latest concoction, hook up the crossover, and figure out which slopes sound the best, before I try to design any passive xover stuff. (I'll be doing a lot less passive xovers now.) Another thing I love, is you can adjust the timing down to 1 Millimeter! (For tweeter delay.)
I could go on, about how I love this unit!.......LOL
This one of the fastest way to design passive x-over. I have a DCX and will be designing passive x-over to compare it against the DCX.
Cheers.
3 X spdif output board
This 3 X spdif output board will work with the DCX but using 3 outboard dacs is adding a lot of expense to the system when you consider that the world class AK4396 dac chip will drop in to the DCX and, when running direct out through nothing more than a high quality coupling cap, sound better than other high end dacs. Better sound and much simpler, cheaper.
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http://switch-box.com/Home.html
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.Audiodidakt said:
This 3 X spdif output board will work with the DCX but using 3 outboard dacs is adding a lot of expense to the system when you consider that the world class AK4396 dac chip will drop in to the DCX and, when running direct out through nothing more than a high quality coupling cap, sound better than other high end dacs. Better sound and much simpler, cheaper.
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http://switch-box.com/Home.html
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Audiodidakt said:
Well, "top class" is an ambitious goal and a slippery one at that.
IMO, the weakest link in the DCX is not the DAC, rather it is the analog output section. The most reasonable solution seems to be wiring a transformer (with a simple RC filter) directly to the output of the DAC. Search the various threads for more information.
The DAC needs to "see" some resistance and I would not simply merely put in a DC blocking cap to replace the entire output section. This is my opinion.
Possible transformers include the Edcor WSM series (about $10 per channel) or the Cinemag 15 series (about $40 per channel). Of course, you can always spend more. But if you go that direction, you should probably first worry about the power supply and possibly the clocking.
Good Luck
