I was thinking of the small type of effect devices
some doesnt cost much, if one doesnt know how to
one problem is to figure out which one is needed
and I still havent
compressors, and whatever else is needed
which is why I have decided to buy a plug and play head amp
one that works properly, but still affordable
I dont understand the electronics involved here
instead I will put my DIY efforts into the guitar building
this instrument amplification/speaker setup is far from so straight forward as thought it would be
seems like nothing much of my hifi expriences is any good
different world, it seems
well, live and learn, they say
some doesnt cost much, if one doesnt know how to
one problem is to figure out which one is needed
and I still havent
compressors, and whatever else is needed
which is why I have decided to buy a plug and play head amp
one that works properly, but still affordable
I dont understand the electronics involved here
instead I will put my DIY efforts into the guitar building
this instrument amplification/speaker setup is far from so straight forward as thought it would be
seems like nothing much of my hifi expriences is any good
different world, it seems
well, live and learn, they say
A compressor is certainly needed for a clean bass tone. My guitar amp knows that. Hooked it up to a bass guitar, cone excursion was very peaky, but went to maybe 8mm p/p. With just the note ringing, it was down to more like 3 or 4mm (this was with a 10" driver open backed, on maybe a couple of watts). Getting rid of that initial peak is important for your speakers and your amplifier, as it will eat up mechanical and electrical headroom.
I think I'd clone something like this Marshall.
That way, you have enough power to drive external speakers if needed, and you can try tweaking different things and learning what everything does, without having a huge, complicated rig to mess with.
Chris
I think I'd clone something like this Marshall.
That way, you have enough power to drive external speakers if needed, and you can try tweaking different things and learning what everything does, without having a huge, complicated rig to mess with.
Chris
yeah, wheels are cool
...nah, makes the drawing look more real but I have some funny little wheels you barely notice
oh, ok, ofcourse thats not very clear
those indicate inner baffles
and, the box is open at both sides, in all drawings
BVR, midbass horn, folded dipole, open bass bin
I have no idea what to call it
those indicate inner baffles
and, the box is open at both sides, in all drawings
BVR, midbass horn, folded dipole, open bass bin
I have no idea what to call it
actually for a heavy cabinet wheels are a great idea. with a bass cab, they should be lockable.
with bass, you don't need high wattages if your speakers can move large volumes of air efficiently. i've tried the device shown below as an experiment, but the real challenge will be to make it in a roadworthy version. i know it's a crude drawing, but you see where i'm going with it... the experimental version is used as a sub for a 50 watt receiver, and with a simple LC crossover, requires no bass boost to adequately fill a room. the vertical tube is made from industrial shrink wrap cores (4" diameter heavy wall cardboard tubes)
with bass, you don't need high wattages if your speakers can move large volumes of air efficiently. i've tried the device shown below as an experiment, but the real challenge will be to make it in a roadworthy version. i know it's a crude drawing, but you see where i'm going with it... the experimental version is used as a sub for a 50 watt receiver, and with a simple LC crossover, requires no bass boost to adequately fill a room. the vertical tube is made from industrial shrink wrap cores (4" diameter heavy wall cardboard tubes)
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looks..ehh, B I G Im sure its good, but looks more like a sub than instrument speaker
after sorting a few details with driver mounting, I might go back to my original plan with a fronthorn/waveguide, "open back, may be "open sides"
which would better if placed against a wall .... shoot, that was the thing with the other one
hmm, I dont know
but theres time
Im sure its good, but looks more like a sub than instrument speakerafter sorting a few details with driver mounting, I might go back to my original plan with a fronthorn/waveguide, "open back, may be "open sides"
which would better if placed against a wall .... shoot, that was the thing with the other one
hmm, I dont know
but theres time
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yes, could be a problem
problem, this woofer needs a very big box
you could say I just bought the wrong woofer
but this is for home use only
I dont play loud, but rather 'silent'
besides, a bass amp will have low cut filter, right ?
anyway, I want to investigate if it would also do music/hifi with small amps
hmm, I have been aware of that
but what I wasnt aware of is that my present 'thoughts' are approaching a size that would make a closed design possible
I will do some calculations, again
btw, the one with 'open side', midbass waveguides shows low cut around 120hz
maybe it really would work
woofer is this one
the 'easy' solution
local pickup, no shipping, cheaper
SPA-15PA
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which could look like this
but now I may be facing trouble with the woofer's high Qts
but its not a front horn with a 'compression' chamber
more like a folded fronthorn, with open back, but reversed
I wonder if that will make up for some of dipole roll off
and maybe even take care of some of he issues with the unloaded low end
but probably not, since its still a free air system, below the mid horn low cut off
or is it ?
and for the even more crazy, a stupidly BIG version
but same thing, and not much different
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Hmm, if it's for home use, then even on a simple baffle, it will probably be enough for practice levels. It would probably be an idea to keep really low bass away from it, though...
Methinks you should start building stuff, find out what does what. I think I'd try a simple sealed design first, add stuffing, and if there's still a bump in response from Q>0.7, then you could play with eq if you wanted rid of it.
Chris
Methinks you should start building stuff, find out what does what. I think I'd try a simple sealed design first, add stuffing, and if there's still a bump in response from Q>0.7, then you could play with eq if you wanted rid of it.
Chris
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