The Fountek FR89 has a bit more bass than the FE85. But these are expensive drivers.
I'm still researching drivers. It seems that if I can squeeze a bit more space and go for a 4" then there are a lot of decent drivers available (eg. EL70, RS100-4) with better bass and decent distortion figures (especially down low) but still good highs.
One that looks interesting with a low bass response is the TB W4-1720 which has a very flat midrange and goes out to 20Khz although needs a filter cut above 8Khz. Anyone tried this for a full range driver?
I'm still researching drivers. It seems that if I can squeeze a bit more space and go for a 4" then there are a lot of decent drivers available (eg. EL70, RS100-4) with better bass and decent distortion figures (especially down low) but still good highs.
One that looks interesting with a low bass response is the TB W4-1720 which has a very flat midrange and goes out to 20Khz although needs a filter cut above 8Khz. Anyone tried this for a full range driver?
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Clearly, the larger the cone, the more air it can push. Breakup is a big deal with all of these. This is why I have been playing with methods to dampen the breakup. I was quite successful on the 85's, killing the highest frequency breakup by about 12 dB. It was pretty well behaved lower, where the Fostex 125 was horrible at 6.7K. I was able to knock about 5 dB off that. The RS drivers also need do be dealt with. Dealing with the source of the problem is far better than trying to notch it out.
Ugly fact of life: Better drivers cost more. Real bummer that. Note there are some small drivers designed to be woofers that could be paired with a tweeter and do a far better job of being wider range.
Ugly fact of life: Better drivers cost more. Real bummer that. Note there are some small drivers designed to be woofers that could be paired with a tweeter and do a far better job of being wider range.
1.5 L, tuned to 90 Hz, rear port. 5 ply birch. Lightly filled with wool. .45 mH and 6.5 Ohm BSC. Three coats of goo on the dust caps and moretite on the frames. The total investment is well under $100. So for a comparison, are they better than baby Warfdales for the same investment? No. Are they better than anything sold in the office store as computer speakers? Yes.
Actually to get 100 Hz out of a 2.25 driver is quite something. A bigger box and any games that did not provide Fs control would be a disaster. Drivers don't sound very good after you smash the former into the pole piece and then rip it out the front.
The basket has some limitations as so much of it is there to reflect back. I did not recess them in this set as I am planning on a felt pad to come up flush. I did verify with duct tape the improvement in response if they were flush. It does make a sizable difference. I have not made the order to McMAster Carr yet.
Fun little project, but not a direction I have any interest in perusing further unless I want to make more attractive boxes.
Actually to get 100 Hz out of a 2.25 driver is quite something. A bigger box and any games that did not provide Fs control would be a disaster. Drivers don't sound very good after you smash the former into the pole piece and then rip it out the front.
The basket has some limitations as so much of it is there to reflect back. I did not recess them in this set as I am planning on a felt pad to come up flush. I did verify with duct tape the improvement in response if they were flush. It does make a sizable difference. I have not made the order to McMAster Carr yet.
Fun little project, but not a direction I have any interest in perusing further unless I want to make more attractive boxes.
Spent some time on the Parts Express site checking out in particular higher xmax drivers, low Fs and full range frequency drivers. Two drivers stand out (smaller than 4"):
Dayton ND91 (the enhanced version of the ND90 / Aura NS3, goes really low especially for a small box)
Dayton RS100-4 (excellent distortion figures and reasonable low frequency)
Dayton ND91 (the enhanced version of the ND90 / Aura NS3, goes really low especially for a small box)
Dayton RS100-4 (excellent distortion figures and reasonable low frequency)
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Hi,
I'd say your best bet is two 8 ohm NS3's wired as a 0.5 way in 4 to 6L
with a side mounted PR tuned to about 40Hz with overall computer EQ :
Madisound Speaker Store
Hmmm..... one in 5L is 33Hz tuning ....
rgds, sreten.
I'd say your best bet is two 8 ohm NS3's wired as a 0.5 way in 4 to 6L
with a side mounted PR tuned to about 40Hz with overall computer EQ :
Madisound Speaker Store
Hmmm..... one in 5L is 33Hz tuning ....
rgds, sreten.
Because getting a low tune from a small enclosure and small driver is tough. With and LT you can have 20hz (if your eq system can, windows does not). As for excursion, I've found with mine I can barely even detect excursion because in the near field the SPL requirements are way less. 1m versus 3m is about 12db difference. That kind of power difference really adds up.
I don't need 20Hz, most music doesn't have much below 40Hz. LT works well but needs a lot of power, although as a PC speaker it is relatively easy to EQ for LT in software. I'm actually planning to develop a virtual soundcard driver that allows filters to be inserted (like vst's) and is transparent to the applications, but that is the topic for another thread.
brute force?
This is brute force...but I'm lovin' these new flare port boxes.
I had a chuckle yesterday, all my speakers start to sound the same - eventually. The 4" here are sounding like the 5.25" pair(s) (that slam like crazy).
Had to make new thinner wood sides for the CD player...silly me, never measured
This is brute force...but I'm lovin' these new flare port boxes.
I had a chuckle yesterday, all my speakers start to sound the same - eventually. The 4" here are sounding like the 5.25" pair(s) (that slam like crazy).
Had to make new thinner wood sides for the CD player...silly me, never measured
Attachments
So the flares are the bass reflex ports?
Talking about speakers starting to sound the same, interestingly all of my main speakers for the last 20 years have been using vifa drivers (first pair DIY, now listening to a number of Dunlavy's SC models around the house).
Does anyone who knows about transmission line boxes know if its practical to implement in boxes 4 or 5L big? My initial research shows a transmission line / horn loaded design will supplement the bass but squeezing it into a small box will be hard.
Talking about speakers starting to sound the same, interestingly all of my main speakers for the last 20 years have been using vifa drivers (first pair DIY, now listening to a number of Dunlavy's SC models around the house).
Does anyone who knows about transmission line boxes know if its practical to implement in boxes 4 or 5L big? My initial research shows a transmission line / horn loaded design will supplement the bass but squeezing it into a small box will be hard.
Flare port - this was the thinking here:
Precision Port 4" Flared Port Tube Kit 268-352
Love the 7" vifa's in the HT, gesh can't believe they stopped making them.
Precision Port 4" Flared Port Tube Kit 268-352
Love the 7" vifa's in the HT, gesh can't believe they stopped making them.
Ya, I was trying to get people over on TechTalk to start thinking full range, so I did a little blurb over there: Desktop system I call the Office Hotties
LT and a sealed box is smaller. A high order alignment is bigger, but more efficient. Either case, you must not exceed the ability of the driver to move air. A 2.25 inch driver flat does not push much air. Usable 100 Hz nearfield is darn good. More expensive drivers may get to 80. Sonically, that is a big difference. To get to 60, which gives the perspective of full range just is not going to happen.
Now, to advance your thinking, the air goes both directions in the port. Your flair makes it more efficient on the outside, besides the round-over, what is helping it on the inside?
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