just for Greedy Boyz
Papa's Cave - with bookshelf JBL spks
( happy Papa pic - just for scale )
You know, those amps should be sold under the First Thousand Watt Company.
Heck, they can drive Maggies and the stack from the Dead's Wall of Sound.
I take it those amps come with able bodied men to move around?
I will only have four inches of space in the rack above and below the 5U amp...
How about this? I would put it on top of the amp to exhaust air from the cavity...
https://www.amazon.com/ICE-COOREL-Cooling-15-17-3-Adjustable/dp/B0BPRSQGQ4?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1
How about this? I would put it on top of the amp to exhaust air from the cavity...
https://www.amazon.com/ICE-COOREL-Cooling-15-17-3-Adjustable/dp/B0BPRSQGQ4?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1
I remember to have seen a set of JBL L300 at "Papa's cave" or what you call it?
Are those L300 still around?
I have never had a listening experience with them but I remember a speaker that could be purchased as a kit (or complete speaker) that had the L300 in mind. So not an exact replica but maybe a "homage like" speaker. The speaker was called Coral X15. This one:
https://hifi-wiki.com/index.php/Coral_X-15
I had a friend building them. He had them in his room which was 3m x 5m or so. A Micro-Seiki TT DDX-1000 and a lot of hard rock records. I remember this as the best listen experience from that time period. Therefor some day I would like to listen to a set of L300
I know that the DDX-1000 is still running today.
Are those L300 still around?
I have never had a listening experience with them but I remember a speaker that could be purchased as a kit (or complete speaker) that had the L300 in mind. So not an exact replica but maybe a "homage like" speaker. The speaker was called Coral X15. This one:
https://hifi-wiki.com/index.php/Coral_X-15
I had a friend building them. He had them in his room which was 3m x 5m or so. A Micro-Seiki TT DDX-1000 and a lot of hard rock records. I remember this as the best listen experience from that time period. Therefor some day I would like to listen to a set of L300
I know that the DDX-1000 is still running today.
I really like these for an easy, ready-made solution. They also have 80mm units. I typically use a set with my warmer amps, pointed directly into the heatsink fins. The rubber grommets help with vibration/noise and allow for multi-plane positioning. The low setting is inaudible from more than a foot away in my room.
Yeah, the only thing I don't like is the light show...
But the good thing is that you can't forget to turn it on...
Then there's this
https://www.amazon.com/ICE-COOREL-Aluminum-Adjustable-Notebook/dp/B08TRGT9VZ?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1
Or if all fails, go back to the old "two quiet fans, a lighted switch, a long wire and a usb wall wart"
I do like it better if I could intall them in a walk in fridge. Will a heavy duty Polar Parka and a wool cap affect the soundstage?
BTW, seriously, given the empirical method postulated by @Zen Mod , let's say I put a temp probe in the cavity of the beast.. How hot is sane? insane? lunatic? Tony_level_open_the_windows_and_get_the_fire_extinguisher? Should I aim to keep the interior at 55C and no more?
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But the good thing is that you can't forget to turn it on...
Then there's this
https://www.amazon.com/ICE-COOREL-Aluminum-Adjustable-Notebook/dp/B08TRGT9VZ?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1
Or if all fails, go back to the old "two quiet fans, a lighted switch, a long wire and a usb wall wart"
I do like it better if I could intall them in a walk in fridge. Will a heavy duty Polar Parka and a wool cap affect the soundstage?
BTW, seriously, given the empirical method postulated by @Zen Mod , let's say I put a temp probe in the cavity of the beast.. How hot is sane? insane? lunatic? Tony_level_open_the_windows_and_get_the_fire_extinguisher? Should I aim to keep the interior at 55C and no more?
🚒👩🚒
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if sinks are at 55C in hottest part of year, you're good
anyhow, I know that - with Babysitter, top plate is substantially colder than heatsinks, on any amp I' using that
that speaket about temperature of interior parts
now, you can always install bigger sinks on small parts on board , equipped with same - either bigger hsinks or pair of small ones back to back
now, if you invest just 10% of energy spent on writing about Babysitter and lids and ......... in obtaining proper babysitter solution, you're also good
anyhow, I know that - with Babysitter, top plate is substantially colder than heatsinks, on any amp I' using that
that speaket about temperature of interior parts
now, you can always install bigger sinks on small parts on board , equipped with same - either bigger hsinks or pair of small ones back to back
now, if you invest just 10% of energy spent on writing about Babysitter and lids and ......... in obtaining proper babysitter solution, you're also good
I've spent quite a bit of time already on this.
Everything you've suggested has been done. now just we're just waiting now for parts to arrive.
My concern is not with the top plate proper, nor the outside heatsinks but the insides of the amp. The big heat sinks are out in the open already, it's the interior that got cooked for lack of airflow. So, concern is what is a reasonable temperature for the interior of the inner amp cavity? I plan on dropping a sensor into it, hanging from one of the top plate's cooling slots to get some info. If the temps go nuts, then it will be time to put the babysitter.
If that won't keep the box cool, then it will be time to give it up and put the beast on the top shelf. Macho becomes the Gigolo.
So, is it OK for the internal parts in the cavity to reach 60C? 55C?
This is the last piece I need until we get all the parts in.
Until then, it;s Sissy time.
Everything you've suggested has been done. now just we're just waiting now for parts to arrive.
My concern is not with the top plate proper, nor the outside heatsinks but the insides of the amp. The big heat sinks are out in the open already, it's the interior that got cooked for lack of airflow. So, concern is what is a reasonable temperature for the interior of the inner amp cavity? I plan on dropping a sensor into it, hanging from one of the top plate's cooling slots to get some info. If the temps go nuts, then it will be time to put the babysitter.
If that won't keep the box cool, then it will be time to give it up and put the beast on the top shelf. Macho becomes the Gigolo.
So, is it OK for the internal parts in the cavity to reach 60C? 55C?
This is the last piece I need until we get all the parts in.
Until then, it;s Sissy time.
can't help with exact figure about inside temp of amp - never measured any, simply because I always used proper size of case, whichever amp was in question, when speaking of Modushop products
color me conservative - 4U/400 for up to 80W of heat per side, 5U/500 for more than that .... say up to 120-130W
and all of that with Babysitter in Summer ........ simply because I'm powering AC thingie only when my forehead is sweating so I can't work because i can't see
color me conservative - 4U/400 for up to 80W of heat per side, 5U/500 for more than that .... say up to 120-130W
and all of that with Babysitter in Summer ........ simply because I'm powering AC thingie only when my forehead is sweating so I can't work because i can't see
While waiting for parts to arrive...
Has anyone tried a convection cooler? Something like air to liquid to air ?
Putting a heat sink inside the cavity of the amp to draw heat out from the cavity and then pushing that heat via a pump/liquid to an enternal radiator?
It seems that such a gizmo could be built by adding a couple of PC coolers to the large side heat sinks and then drawing the heat out above and outside the body of the main amp.
For one thing, it would allow something like an Aleph 1.2 to be built on a Dissipante 5U/500 chassis, and it would for sure make my 5U/400 Macho 252 SIT to survive in the rack.
Has anyone tried a convection cooler? Something like air to liquid to air ?
Putting a heat sink inside the cavity of the amp to draw heat out from the cavity and then pushing that heat via a pump/liquid to an enternal radiator?
It seems that such a gizmo could be built by adding a couple of PC coolers to the large side heat sinks and then drawing the heat out above and outside the body of the main amp.
For one thing, it would allow something like an Aleph 1.2 to be built on a Dissipante 5U/500 chassis, and it would for sure make my 5U/400 Macho 252 SIT to survive in the rack.
I believe that if you seal the perimeter that the structure sits on with the fans to the amp cover slits it will work fine enough.
However, you'll have the dust issue, though.
The more effective the system, the more dust will be an issue which will force you to use a suitable foam to act as a filter.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Computer-Proof-Filter-Sheet-2500cm²-Black/dp/B01BO6P814
However, 4 larger fans will be quieter than 8 smaller fans, of course and I would also have fun trying a 4 fans push-pull, but dust will always be even more of an issue.
My main problem is I have a 12" shelf spacing with a 5U amp... including the half inch feet, that allows me only 2.75 of clearance above the amp.
Forced air requires me to look at "inside the amp" solutions. Ideally, the amp would have a fan on the back plate, but that's a notgonnahappen thing now.
So for forced air...
Fan housing that sits flush with the amp and exhausts/draws from to the front or rear.
Very low profile babysitter under the amp, less than an inch, that will allow about 1.75 inches above the amp... hmmm...
Building the fans right into the top case... would it be better to push or pull air out?
BTW, @Zen Mod the Enermax line is very expensive! Enermax Vegas AEOLUS Aluminum Vegas Cooling Pad is over 180 bucks at Amazon... I already lookd at it. For that, I figured I could make a custom fully perforated plate for the bottom of the amp ( or top lid ) and put a large, thin fan on it.
Forced air requires me to look at "inside the amp" solutions. Ideally, the amp would have a fan on the back plate, but that's a notgonnahappen thing now.
So for forced air...
Fan housing that sits flush with the amp and exhausts/draws from to the front or rear.
Very low profile babysitter under the amp, less than an inch, that will allow about 1.75 inches above the amp... hmmm...
Building the fans right into the top case... would it be better to push or pull air out?
BTW, @Zen Mod the Enermax line is very expensive! Enermax Vegas AEOLUS Aluminum Vegas Cooling Pad is over 180 bucks at Amazon... I already lookd at it. For that, I figured I could make a custom fully perforated plate for the bottom of the amp ( or top lid ) and put a large, thin fan on it.
Amigo! I have many fetishes.... you ought to see the living room when I play Macho Man or Frankie Goes To Hollywood.... Heck, earlier today I was polishing my old AE1 speakers, in their 30 year old black crinkle finish, with Armor All... I think I need the version with the shiny finish.
Seriously, though, I got a lot of amps in the living room as it is and marital peace requires me that I get them off the floor. I might just lower one of the racks and put this amp on the top shelf while I play with the cooling.
I just measured the SissySIT. Room is at 25C, top panel of amp is 50C, the hottest spot on the heat sinks, right behind the Tokin, is 55C. about 30C over ambient. This amp has 2 inches of clearance over it. Heatsinks are out on the open, just like the 252 SIT was. Those are reasonable temps for such an amp?
BTW, the heatsinks of the 252 were at 55C too... all I can think of now is that the components of the 252 stereo amp run hotter. It may just be that the amp requires a larger case or forced air cooling.
The taller shelf stands arrived today. Now I got to take two racks apart and rebuild them.
Seriously, though, I got a lot of amps in the living room as it is and marital peace requires me that I get them off the floor. I might just lower one of the racks and put this amp on the top shelf while I play with the cooling.
I just measured the SissySIT. Room is at 25C, top panel of amp is 50C, the hottest spot on the heat sinks, right behind the Tokin, is 55C. about 30C over ambient. This amp has 2 inches of clearance over it. Heatsinks are out on the open, just like the 252 SIT was. Those are reasonable temps for such an amp?
BTW, the heatsinks of the 252 were at 55C too... all I can think of now is that the components of the 252 stereo amp run hotter. It may just be that the amp requires a larger case or forced air cooling.
The taller shelf stands arrived today. Now I got to take two racks apart and rebuild them.
Yes, that is likely one of the best solutions. Just make the shelves themselves "active". I hadn't thought about that. I never did measure the 252's case.
Who knows, maybe we had a marginal component in the right channel that let go the very first time I put the amp in the rack. It ran fine for two weeks out in the open. The left channel kept playing quite well... instead of CANCAN... we had CAN....
Who knows, maybe we had a marginal component in the right channel that let go the very first time I put the amp in the rack. It ran fine for two weeks out in the open. The left channel kept playing quite well... instead of CANCAN... we had CAN....