Thanks for the nice reply
I’m using a pair of Single Ended Class A (SECA) mono’s at the moment which paired with the BA-3 FE make a superb combination.
I’m more than happy with the sound.
But now I’m wondering about one of Papa’s power amps.
Yes I’m that impressed with the BA-3 Pre.
I'll have a look at the menu and se what fits
(I love to build)The best sounding Pre I’ve heard in a very long time and a big step up from the excellent DCB1 I’ve used mostly up until now.
Thanks again for the build guides which it looks like I’ll be using again pretty soon.
I'll start thinking on a chassis.
Hi Dennis
Good point
But
Maybe needing gain and preferring it are two different things.
I’ve been looking for a good active pre for some time (becoming a rare beast
) and hovered over the BA-3 FE from time to time but Keith’s favourable reports gave me a little shove to have a try.I’m using a Buffalo 3 DAC, Paradise phono pre front end and in theory the SECA’s should not need gain. However to my ears, in my set up, IMHO the BA-3 does a better job of driving my power amps and provides a more spacious, dynamic and detailed sound. I’ve noticed that gain thing with some of my other amps also which should not need but do like to have….
I’ve been around the block enough times and tried plenty but the sound does not always justify the hype. Hence the quick and dirty build (I hate metal work and it hates me) which sounds way better than the little effort involved in building.
Luckily the BA-3 FE is every bit as good as I’ve read which as I’ve mentioned is not always the case.
DCB1 or BA-3 which is best?
Is a question for the individual but having both may be the best way of finding out.
Both good.
The power amp will need a little thinking on but Nelson’s amps seem to run mostly on the same ish PSU so maybe build those first (I do monoblocks) and then try one or two amps.
sounds like a plan
Hi Dennis
DCB1 or BA-3 which is best?
Is a question for the individual but having both may be the best way of finding out.
Both good.
The power amp will need a little thinking on but Nelson’s amps seem to run mostly on the same ish PSU so maybe build those first (I do monoblocks) and then try one or two amps.
sounds like a plan
It's a good plan. Thanks for your comments again.
Dennis
You're exactly right. I got PM today which confirmed they were cut from a three position terminal block.
One insulation package around the terminal blocks will need to be sacrificed at each cut.
A 3 way terminal block will give two singles with insulation intact and one bare screw terminal that could be used elsewhere.
But be careful tightening and slackening the screw of a single. It puts high torque strain on the single pin through the PCB hole. leading to early failure.
A 3 way terminal block will give two singles with insulation intact and one bare screw terminal that could be used elsewhere.
But be careful tightening and slackening the screw of a single. It puts high torque strain on the single pin through the PCB hole. leading to early failure.
Hi All
I’ve spent the past week or so working the Gain down a little and have settled on the following recipe:
R5 200R R6 50R R7 50R
It’s pretty easy to try with just two resistors to replace and with R6-7 100R+100R in parallel easy to change back for FW duties.
So @10db ish
Its been done before in this thread so thanks for the pathfinding work Guys.
To my ears and in my set up it’s made very little difference to the sound but has allowed much more travel on the DACT. Low night time levels up to 12 o’clock and daytime levels after that. I mostly listen at around 2 o’clock which is plenty loud enough.
Sounding superb.
I’m using a Mills low inductance 5W for R13 and wondered if quality made a difference. I’ve read that all resistors sound the same but that’s not my experience.
Opinions welcome
Loving the crystal clarity and big sound stage that I‘ve been enjoying since installing the BA-3 FE into my setup.
I’ve finished the rebuild and pictures will follow.
I’ve spent the past week or so working the Gain down a little and have settled on the following recipe:
R5 200R R6 50R R7 50R
It’s pretty easy to try with just two resistors to replace and with R6-7 100R+100R in parallel easy to change back for FW duties.
So @10db ish
Its been done before in this thread so thanks for the pathfinding work Guys.
To my ears and in my set up it’s made very little difference to the sound but has allowed much more travel on the DACT. Low night time levels up to 12 o’clock and daytime levels after that. I mostly listen at around 2 o’clock which is plenty loud enough.
Sounding superb.
I’m using a Mills low inductance 5W for R13 and wondered if quality made a difference. I’ve read that all resistors sound the same but that’s not my experience.
Opinions welcome
Loving the crystal clarity and big sound stage that I‘ve been enjoying since installing the BA-3 FE into my setup.
I’ve finished the rebuild and pictures will follow.
I’m using a Mills low inductance 5W for R13 and wondered if quality made a difference. I’ve read that all resistors sound the same but that’s not my experience.
Could you tell me the resistor details(brand, ppm, %) you used and where? Assume you kept R13 at 330R?
Thanks. Nash
I’m using a Mills low inductance 5W for R13 and wondered if quality made a difference. I’ve read that all resistors sound the same but that’s not my experience.
Could you tell me the resistor details(brand, ppm, %) you used and where? Assume you kept R13 at 330R?
Thanks. Nash
Good 'ol Blue Panasonic!
Russellc
I have a long story of measure once, cut once, then go to the store to buy more wood...
Now I measure twice!I’m using a Mills low inductance 5W for R13 and wondered if quality made a difference. I’ve read that all resistors sound the same but that’s not my experience.
Could you tell me the resistor details(brand, ppm, %) you used and where? Assume you kept R13 at 330R?
Thanks. Nash
R13 200R
And a typo R5 should read 220R
For R13 I used these.
Mills | Hifi Collective