Velleman VM124 is a nice 1A regulator. It is all you will need.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
[/URL]http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue-source/261735-technics-sp-10-mk2a-project-6l6-16.html
Has been discussing LM317/337 and the fact that they are rather better than most give credit for. But again Choice is good.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue-source/261735-technics-sp-10-mk2a-project-6l6-16.html
Has been discussing LM317/337 and the fact that they are rather better than most give credit for. But again Choice is good.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/analogue-source/261735-technics-sp-10-mk2a-project-6l6-16.html
Your suggestion are much appreciated, but since I am still at a rather basic level with electronics, it would probably be best to start simple, and not get involved in LED stacking and component matching just yet.. For the original design B1, I have my eye on a single ended regulation with LM317 (see pic). It is 10 usd from a reputable ebay seller, and have decent quality components, as far as I can tell (the similar units with no-name caps etc are 4-5 usd). So that should be a good starting point, and I can focus on making the B1 board
Then I can always upgrade, and try different, and more advanced solutions. I am quite tempted by the DCB1 design, so I could do that as next project perhaps - but also have that F6 to build...
In any case, I am slowly starting to grasp the complexities in the whole single ended vs. symmetrical, and cap buffer vs. DC coupled issue. Makes me want to solder some stuff you know
Then I can always upgrade, and try different, and more advanced solutions. I am quite tempted by the DCB1 design, so I could do that as next project perhaps - but also have that F6 to build...
In any case, I am slowly starting to grasp the complexities in the whole single ended vs. symmetrical, and cap buffer vs. DC coupled issue. Makes me want to solder some stuff you know
Attachments
"Good enough for rock'n'roll" meaning they are more than good enough in my opinion. Also for classical music @ 24/192. The B1 is simple so I choose a simple regulator, but in my opinion a better solution than a wall wart. You could of course go for some more complicated regulators like Borbely All-FET or similar. But it will increase cost, and maybe not give you much in return. LM317 ain't that bad either.
@jvbh: Fair enough, if you are dipping a first toe, build as close to spec as you can, then mod as you get more experienced/brave. The B1 even works with a laptop PSU well enough, so you have lots of easy start options.
@R-K R: Ah misunderstood you. We are on the same page
@R-K R: Ah misunderstood you. We are on the same page
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
- Home
- Amplifiers
- Pass Labs
- B1 Power Supply Options