Anyone any views on the Siemens 1uF 400V MKP.
Would it be a better choice then the WIMA 1uF 400V MKS4 ?
Or should I go for the WIMA 1uF 400V MKP4 ?
I've got other MKP caps but they are of dubious origin.
I've also got a pair of WIMA 3.3uF 750V MKP4 but they are considerably bigger.
Would it be a better choice then the WIMA 1uF 400V MKS4 ?
Or should I go for the WIMA 1uF 400V MKP4 ?
I've got other MKP caps but they are of dubious origin.
I've also got a pair of WIMA 3.3uF 750V MKP4 but they are considerably bigger.
Attachments
Well based on the general view that polypropylene is better than polyester I would say any of those would be a better choice than the wima MKS4 which is a PET cap.
Personally I just check the datasheet for the caps I'm interested in, and if the specs are similar I buy based on price and availability
Tony.
Personally I just check the datasheet for the caps I'm interested in, and if the specs are similar I buy based on price and availability
Tony.
One step closer to Audio Nirvana.
The Polyprops at the input have CERTAINLY brightened up the amp as I am trying to do.
I used the Siemens as posted in #424 because they were the right type and fit the PCB.
Just waiting for the Obbligato PIOs to replace the 2 x 4.7uF Metalised Film at the outputs. They should be here on Monday.
Any sceptics that think that caps don't make a difference - In this instance they do.
My Aleph 4 was specified to use Tantalum caps for C11. The result was an awful Tsssss sound whenever a vocal should have been a S. Replacing C11 with an Elma Simic II cured the problem and the result is more Audio Karma.
Thank you everyone for your patience. Your help has been much appreciated.
The Polyprops at the input have CERTAINLY brightened up the amp as I am trying to do.
I used the Siemens as posted in #424 because they were the right type and fit the PCB.
Just waiting for the Obbligato PIOs to replace the 2 x 4.7uF Metalised Film at the outputs. They should be here on Monday.
Any sceptics that think that caps don't make a difference - In this instance they do.
My Aleph 4 was specified to use Tantalum caps for C11. The result was an awful Tsssss sound whenever a vocal should have been a S. Replacing C11 with an Elma Simic II cured the problem and the result is more Audio Karma.
Thank you everyone for your patience. Your help has been much appreciated.
What I am trying to do here is broaded the scope for building the amplifier that we all seek.
I've said it before - One mans poison is another's elixer.
It is more important to realise which components really make the biggest difference.
My sincere apologies to those that have helped as I have been a "thickhead".
Nelson's B1 does specify MKPs as the input caps. Now I have (OK slightly different) MKPs at the input, my B1 is starting to sound like I would expect it to.
Nelson's B1 also specifies exotic 10uF (Axon 10uF Metalised Polyprop Film) at the outputs. I've paid the price - now I am waiting for Obbligato 10uF PIOs.
The biggest surprise was the PSU.
A simple CRC feeding an equally simple LM317 has excelled over a Capactive Multiplier.
My B1 is now a DREAM to listen to with the Aleph 4 and a pair of B&W 683s.
Everyones' ears are different - I just happen to like B&W cos' I used to work for them.
I've said it before - One mans poison is another's elixer.
It is more important to realise which components really make the biggest difference.
My sincere apologies to those that have helped as I have been a "thickhead".
Nelson's B1 does specify MKPs as the input caps. Now I have (OK slightly different) MKPs at the input, my B1 is starting to sound like I would expect it to.
Nelson's B1 also specifies exotic 10uF (Axon 10uF Metalised Polyprop Film) at the outputs. I've paid the price - now I am waiting for Obbligato 10uF PIOs.
The biggest surprise was the PSU.
A simple CRC feeding an equally simple LM317 has excelled over a Capactive Multiplier.
My B1 is now a DREAM to listen to with the Aleph 4 and a pair of B&W 683s.
Everyones' ears are different - I just happen to like B&W cos' I used to work for them.
In my B1, the CM was surpassed massively by simple 4700uF 2R2 4700uF. Using good quality LCR low ESR caps.
Last edited:
My disastorous Ladder Switched Attenuator was a cheapie from our Oriental friends (£50 as a kit with Dale E96 1% resistors)
It quickly developed horrible switching noises and was unreliable - it was also 100K.
Now I'm using a 25K ALPS Log(B) pot things are much better.
I'll need a lot of convincing before I spend £60 on a 24 Step ladder Attenuator
Glasshouse Takman metal stepped attenuator Hifi Collective
Maybe the 100K was the issue as opposed to the 25K but I hated the 100K Ladder Attenuator.
It quickly developed horrible switching noises and was unreliable - it was also 100K.
Now I'm using a 25K ALPS Log(B) pot things are much better.
I'll need a lot of convincing before I spend £60 on a 24 Step ladder Attenuator
Glasshouse Takman metal stepped attenuator Hifi Collective
Maybe the 100K was the issue as opposed to the 25K but I hated the 100K Ladder Attenuator.
25k is the value to use with the B1... the entire range of the pot is useful.
I have found stepped attenuators to make a serious difference. There are many good kits out there. I am using a Goldpoint Mini V that is silent, NO clicks or pops. You can test the theory for pennies by measuring your ALPS when it is set for a comfortable level and then cobbling in a single resistor and drain at that value. If there's no difference you are fortunate to have one less variable to ponder... but if you find it to be even more resolving... well.
I have found stepped attenuators to make a serious difference. There are many good kits out there. I am using a Goldpoint Mini V that is silent, NO clicks or pops. You can test the theory for pennies by measuring your ALPS when it is set for a comfortable level and then cobbling in a single resistor and drain at that value. If there's no difference you are fortunate to have one less variable to ponder... but if you find it to be even more resolving... well.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.