Aura NS6-255-8A with Dayton DC28F tweets

[Dissi]

A 2" port is more suitable. Closed or vented depends on the volume of your box. Check the recommendations here:

The Madisound Speaker Store

 

[Einric]

You don't need circuit board, just a piece of wood with some hot glue.
2" Home Depot PVC would be fine.

 

[illnastyimpreza]

the original box design was with a 3'' port 5.16'' long with a 46hz tuning frequency. In a 1.2 cubic foot enclosure... should I be going after a different design with the 6DB crossover??

 

[illnastyimpreza]

The design on the madisound page recommends either a sealed of .25 with an f3 of 90hz or ported that is .5 cubic feet with a 2'' port 6'' long with an F3 of 65hz (much better)

Since this will be going IN the wall, I only have 3.5'' to work with... How would I manage a 6'' long port??

 

[vinylkid58]

Since this will be going IN the wall, I only have 3.5'' to work with... How would I manage a 6'' long port??

It could be "L" shaped, either a round vent, or a slot vent with a 90 degree bend. Ir there room to go bigger than .5ft^3?

jeff

 

[illnastyimpreza]

^ I've got the entire wall to work with...drywall is currently removed. I don't care HOW big the box has to be...

I will be moving some of those studs around... My computer will be mounted on the wall right where the old "window" is currently. The speakers mounted on either side. I havn't decided if I'm going to leave the wall exposed, or drywall it yet.

 

[illnastyimpreza]

I would like to get the f3 of this speaker down as low as possible. The aura driver has an FS of 55hz. How much lower can you design the f3 of the enclosure for ?? the original design was 46hz. Is that acceptable?

 

[illnastyimpreza]

so I lucked out and my left and right wall cavities are almost exactly the same volume. Left is 2.067 and right is 2.045. Could I just use these, seal everything up and slap a baffle on the front??

also, to do the L shaped port, does it matter which way its pointing?

 

[illnastyimpreza]

so I lucked out and my left and right wall cavities are almost exactly the same volume. Left is 2.067 and right is 2.045. Could I just use these, seal everything up and slap a baffle on the front??

 

[vinylkid58]

Left is 2.067 and right is 2.045. Could I just use these, seal everything up and slap a baffle on the front??

There's really no advantage to going that big sealed, but try it to see what you think of the sound. F3@73Hz & F10@38Hz approx. You able to EQ the bass a bit?

jeff

 

[illnastyimpreza]

I have my chambers framed out, approx 1.2Cubic feet per. I didn't subtract for drivers or porting...but I don't think it will matter much. I need to pick up some 1/2'' Fiberboard so it will match my drywall depth.

 

[Einric]

Figuring on 1cuft after port, driver & crossover displacement I would tune to 48hz.
This will require a 2" port 2.25" long.
This will net an F3 of somewhere around 45hz or so.
With a .11 vent match I would probably run a 1/2" roundover bit inside the PVC port to give a nice flare.

 

[illnastyimpreza]

good call einric. I will definitely round out the port as it exits the baffle. I'm gonna stuff the enclosure with pollyfill, which should easily bring me back up to 1.2 cubic feet effective volume and reduce standing waves and resonance inside the box as well...at the cost of a small amount of efficiency loss.

I bought some 2'' PVC pipe. So you think I only need a 2.25'' section??

what does .11 vent match mean>?

 

[Einric]

2.25" is all you should need.
The vent match is a percentage in relation to port air velocity, I don't quite understand it yet other than you really want to keep it below .13.
I just have made it a point to flare at least one end if the port is above .10.

Only lightly stuff the enclosure.

 

[illnastyimpreza]

good advice thanks man. I'm on vacation this weekend. When I get home tomorrow I"m gonna hopefully get some work done on the speakers. Pics to come !

 

[illnastyimpreza]

I'm building the crossover now. I just noticed the polarity of the woofer is reversed for the crossover. Why is this?

 

[Einric]

Phase Matching of the first order crossover.
Without it you will have a bad null at the crossover point.

 

[illnastyimpreza]

some progress.... This was my first experience using a router to cut the speaker holes. I will NOT be doing it this way again. I much prefer a Jigsaw method... I can cut a pretty much perfect line. The router on the other hand produced a result that mimics a seizure...

What bit do you guys use on the router to cut the holes out ?

also, how do you guys make the flush mount cut out? I just used a 1/2'' router flat bit and basicly "painted" it out...

 

[Einric]

Hole Cutting Jig

You should have built a hole cutting jig.
They work GREAT.
You notice every driver has a mark for inside and outside.
They make for a perfect fit.

Your holes will do the job but they do look like a Beaver cut them for you.
Wrap your drivers in cellophane and put them in the holes.
Then backfill the gaps with bondo.
Once the bondo is dry then pull the drivers out, sand it flat and paint it.

 

[illnastyimpreza]

yeah no kidding. WORST speaker holes I've ever seen.....(the speaker screw holes still all line up though )

I used a pivot tool that worked OK i guess.... but I was definitely using the wrong bit. What bit should I be using?

Here is the sub baffle. Cut almost perfectly with a Jig saw in litterally 1/25th the time it took me to use the router to **** up those other holes....

Question, I have a 2nd order low pass crossover with a simple coil and a cheapo electrolytic capacitor for my SUBS. Will I notice a difference in sound using this for my bass ?