karma said:peter i finished the psu what do you
think
Looks good. I'm also working on a new PS enclosure for Patek amp, will post some pics soon.
Peter Daniel said:I'm getting ready with finalizing the buffer stage. The board is ready for testing. Adding the quality attenuator at the input may create quite a good preamp (at least that's what I'm hoping for).
Hi Peter,
Do you find that the OPA604 performs well in this position, or do you recommend something else that's even better?
Would an OPA627 be better here?
Thanks,
KT
HI Peter, for the Zobel cap in the LM4780, a 0.1 (100nf) Polypropylene cap is specified. I am having problems trying to obtain one with the right footprint. Can you kindly furnish me with the brand and part number of the ones you are using for your kit. Thanks.
BTW, I have some that are polyester with a slightly larger footprint. Can these be used? What I mean to say is whether these will impact the sound?
Thanks
BTW, I have some that are polyester with a slightly larger footprint. Can these be used? What I mean to say is whether these will impact the sound?
Thanks
Hm,
I just imagine Peter holding two irons in one Hand and pulling with the other...some strange kind of zen-art, isn´t it?
A better solution is to use a good solder sucker, nothing less than a Edsyn Soldapult DS 017.
Desoldering Litz/wire is another way, but it´s not that good.
Carsten
I just imagine Peter holding two irons in one Hand and pulling with the other...some strange kind of zen-art, isn´t it?
A better solution is to use a good solder sucker, nothing less than a Edsyn Soldapult DS 017.
Desoldering Litz/wire is another way, but it´s not that good.
Carsten
Hi Peter,
don´t loose your humor in the cellar (german slang, guess there is no easy way of translating this).
A solder sucker is a good investment in DIY.
And yes, I know your boards. Desoldering some wires or the Zobel-Network is easy this way...not everybody has a 2nd iron and a person to assist...
Regards
Carsten
don´t loose your humor in the cellar (german slang, guess there is no easy way of translating this).
A solder sucker is a good investment in DIY.
And yes, I know your boards. Desoldering some wires or the Zobel-Network is easy this way...not everybody has a 2nd iron and a person to assist...
Regards
Carsten
Peter Daniel said:Digi Key part # for those caps is BC2054.
Whatever you use here will affect the sound, that's why I'm not using Zobel at all. If you still want to use it, a bigger cap is fine, just adjust the pins so they fit properly.
Peter, am I reading you correctly? Does this mean I can omit these caps? If yes, then all I have to do is replace it with a jumper, right?
Peter Daniel said:The best way is to use two soldering irons simultanuously, otherwise go step by step slowly pulling each end untill it comes out.
The last you can do (if nothing else works) is to cut off the pins, and solder them later directly to the pads.
I can just imagine myself with 2 soldering irons and probably looking like the two gun kid. I kind of figure out why it is so difficult to remove. The solder seeped into the front and when I use the solder sucker to remove the solder on the back, it's the front that is still holding the rectifier to the board. I'll probably need some solder wick and lots of patience to do it but well, it has taught me another lesson. Be sure of what one is doing b4 proceeding.
One other question. Are heatsinks required for the rectifiers? It looks kinda impossible to put heatsinks for them. Would they get very hot and do I need to take some kind of precaution, like installing a fan or the likes?
BTW, everyone who has seen your boards are amazed at how well designed and manufactured they are. Great stuff.
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