At least 200 sets of that DAC has been sold already, and I'm not aware of anybody having a similar problem. It's either player, or a bad chip. I tried variety of transports and there was always compatibility.
Try to increase the value of R6 to let's say 400R and see if this changes anything, although I don't think it would matter.
What are you using for a preamp?
Try to increase the value of R6 to let's say 400R and see if this changes anything, although I don't think it would matter.
What are you using for a preamp?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Thanks for those pictures, mine looks just the same 
I tried 500ohms (the closest I have) there and it made no difference :{
I am using it plugged into a set of JBL active computer speakers at the moment but I also tried it with my headphone amplifier ( http://www.amb.org/audio/mmm/ )
I tried 500ohms (the closest I have) there and it made no difference :{
I am using it plugged into a set of JBL active computer speakers at the moment but I also tried it with my headphone amplifier ( http://www.amb.org/audio/mmm/ )
I have to humbly apologise and hang my head in shame....it works and I have been an idiot.
I wondered when building what the ---J--- marking meant on the topside of the CS8412. Rather than figure it out I thought I'd come back to it.
Suffice to say now I realise it means jumper and have inserted the wire, the dac works fine
I was studying the pictures joint for joint for about the 50th time when I realised yours has a jumper in there. I now have to put the line driver back in and tidy up the mess I have made
At least you know what to tell the next dummie who complains of the same thing
Happy new year!
I wondered when building what the ---J--- marking meant on the topside of the CS8412. Rather than figure it out I thought I'd come back to it.
Suffice to say now I realise it means jumper and have inserted the wire, the dac works fine
I was studying the pictures joint for joint for about the 50th time when I realised yours has a jumper in there. I now have to put the line driver back in and tidy up the mess I have made
At least you know what to tell the next dummie who complains of the same thing
Happy new year!
Peter,
Where can I find info about the DAC kit? I didn't find anything in www.audiosector.com
Thanks
Asen
Where can I find info about the DAC kit? I didn't find anything in www.audiosector.com
Thanks
Asen
Karma,
Coax and digital are the same thing.
Coaxial = a cabled connection (not an optical one)
Probably your players have it labeled differently, some of my stuff says coax, some digital and some spdif.
Now I have added the jumper everything works, my soundcards and the cheap dvd player.
Did you place this jumper?
Coax and digital are the same thing.
Coaxial = a cabled connection (not an optical one)
Probably your players have it labeled differently, some of my stuff says coax, some digital and some spdif.
Now I have added the jumper everything works, my soundcards and the cheap dvd player.
Did you place this jumper?
Attachments
CS8414
Peter,
Would there be any advantage (or any problems) in substituting the CS8414 96khz receiver for the CS8412 in your DACs?
They appear to be completely pin compatible.
By the way, I have both of my All-In-Ones up and running with no problems at all.....beautiful sound! I'm beginning the Greenboard now.
Robert
Peter,
Would there be any advantage (or any problems) in substituting the CS8414 96khz receiver for the CS8412 in your DACs?
They appear to be completely pin compatible.
By the way, I have both of my All-In-Ones up and running with no problems at all.....beautiful sound! I'm beginning the Greenboard now.
Robert
Greenboard
Peter,
A couple more questions on the Greenboard DAC:
1. You included 3300uf caps for C1 thru C4 where the schematic indicates 1000uf....just want to make sure this is okay before I solder them in.
2. I assume that R10 thru R15 are optional resistors that could be used in place of the Line Filter Chokes L1 and L2? Or are they something else? Since they are not on the schematic, what would their values be if they were used?
3. Same question for S1 and S2....what would they be if used?
Thanks,
Robert
Peter,
A couple more questions on the Greenboard DAC:
1. You included 3300uf caps for C1 thru C4 where the schematic indicates 1000uf....just want to make sure this is okay before I solder them in.
2. I assume that R10 thru R15 are optional resistors that could be used in place of the Line Filter Chokes L1 and L2? Or are they something else? Since they are not on the schematic, what would their values be if they were used?
3. Same question for S1 and S2....what would they be if used?
Thanks,
Robert
While the all-in-one board is designed specifically for AC power, the Greenboard is more suitable for battery use. That's why it can be configured with battery chargers on board. Below is the schematic for such application:
The S1 and S2 are LM317 regulators. The resistors values are as follows:
R10/R13: 0.2R
R11/R14: 240R
R12/R15: 2k4
The circuit is based on National application notes. The chokes are not installed in such case (there are jumpers on each one, marked with dotted line). In place of R1-R4 switches should be installed to connect and disconnect charging circuit from the batteries.
3300uF caps are fine in place of C1-C2.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
The S1 and S2 are LM317 regulators. The resistors values are as follows:
R10/R13: 0.2R
R11/R14: 240R
R12/R15: 2k4
The circuit is based on National application notes. The chokes are not installed in such case (there are jumpers on each one, marked with dotted line). In place of R1-R4 switches should be installed to connect and disconnect charging circuit from the batteries.
3300uF caps are fine in place of C1-C2.
Hey Peter I just ordered the Premium kit. I got a question, what type of wire did you use in your making of say Patek? What type of wire did you use between the transformer and the amplifier? I am planning on having a remote power supply as well. I am not sure if what I will use. What ohm ratings are acceptable for this?
opt-e said:
You're bound to get different answers depending on who you talk to.
For what it's worth, I prefer the smallest gauge solid core wire that can be used for the particular application. I am using 30 gauge solid core silver wire for the inputs; 22 gauge solid core silver wire for the outputs; 22 gauge solid core copper wire for the power supply.
Regards,
Wade
Destroyer OS. said:
For signal, I'm using solid core silver (looks like 30ga) that came with S&B102 TVC, I'm not sure where it can be bought. I also like Vampire solid core wire (26ga) that Percy sells.
For power and speaker connections I'm using Cardas hookup wire (19.5 ga). Since I'm using it in umbilical cord, solid core wouldn't work. Also, Cardas seems to work better than everything else I tried so far. Solder pot or high power iron is needed for termination (multiple enameled strands).
When I put the SN75179 back in I discovered that a tiny bit of distortion still persists on some tracks during quiet parts in the high frequencies.
Only happens via Coax from my soundcards, all other sources are fine including direct spdif from the back of two different cdroms.
Optical output from the cards converted to coax works fine too.
Bypassing the input driver fixes the issue. I will be trying another SN75179 when I get hold of one
Is the DAC output inverted when input driver is not present?
Only happens via Coax from my soundcards, all other sources are fine including direct spdif from the back of two different cdroms.
Optical output from the cards converted to coax works fine too.
Bypassing the input driver fixes the issue. I will be trying another SN75179 when I get hold of one
Is the DAC output inverted when input driver is not present?
The DAC wasn't really designed to work with computer soundcards, although some people use it like that.
Without input driver present and correct connection to CS8412 the output is inverted. I'm not sure if you can correct it by swapping connection to the receiver, but you may try (it will probably depend on source output)
Without input driver present and correct connection to CS8412 the output is inverted. I'm not sure if you can correct it by swapping connection to the receiver, but you may try (it will probably depend on source output)
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