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AudioSector-chip amp kits, dacs, chassis

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Diagram with resistors values for Audiosector LM3875 auiosector kit

Hi Wlowes
My god, I took a look to that PDF with the assembilg instructions a lot of times, and never looked at that diagram!
All the answers to my questions are there. You're right, these instructions have lots of good (subtle) tips.
Thanks a lot wlowes and have a great day!

I still have my Gaincard, and will make a PSU for it.
Does anyone tell me if I can use those diodes and a transformer with the Gaincard psu?
I'm talking about the PSU from Audiosector, of course.
The toroid must have 22v secondaries, same as Audiosector Kit - I am sure about that.

I think that in the interior of the Gain Card there are any components of the PSU, but I'm not sure and the case is very hard to open, I have not the right tools to do that.

It would be very interesting to compare them both...
 
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I assembled the kits, very easy, looks very nice.
I intend to make monoblocks, so I would like to be sure if I can use these potenciometres :
HERE.
Thanks!
I will make pictures of the monos in the chassis that I will do next week.
It will look very different from everything that exists and very simple too.
I'm excited like a kid with an electric train.
 
I don't see a reason why you cant use them, though i would say its a little excessive and unnecessary . Do you intent to install these to each mono block ? If you don't have a pre-amp already, i would suggest making one yourself, plenty of designs here on diy to choose from, a simple passive would do the job with just the one pot.
 
Why to make a pre amp if I only need one IN?
Why is it excessive if the sound is better than a blue alps, for example?
A preamp will cost no less than this and I will have to add cables and plugs...

I know the sound of LM3875 and... as you know, there are just a few components.
I don't want to complicate and take decisions against that philosophy...
I don't want to lose that lake of sheen, or veil, wich is what I like so much about these amps.

May be you have a point, I can allways be wrong about something...
What do you say?

I really want to make something impecable. I will add ETI plugs to it.
The speaker cable, as well as the rca cable and mains, will be soldered directly to the boards with 47Labs OTL cable. In the end of interconnect, there will be the ETI plugs, (because I have no 47 Labs RCAs anymore, (what a pitty...).
So you see, I put money in one side but in the other side I save it, avoiding plugs soldered in the boards.
All this for the sound.

I don't want to try other cables or speakers, I did it during a lot of years, so there is no reason to install plugs. Just direct cables soldered to it.

If one day I change of opinion, I will change the connections. All that saved money can buy those expensive pots.
 
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Polaron
I fully agree with your position. Eliminating the RCA connector removes cost, but even more the connector quality can impact sound so the cheap ones need to be avoided.
Another option that I used that works very well with this amp is the lightspeed attenuator. DIY, it is similar price to the stepped attenuators and something that could be experimented with later.
I built my own interconnects using pure silver wire laid out 1/2" apart in clear packing tape. This hardwired to the pot and the boards resulted in very nice sound.
Enjoy your amp. I loved mine for years. I have recently moved on to another phase but keep the audiosector.
 
Wlowes
I'd like very much to know more about those lightspeed attenuators. Can you tell me more about it or/end send some information?
Thks

Usually I prefer copper wires, against silver, but in Hi Fi there's no absolute rules.
I use 47 OTA because my speakers, (Essence, Konus Audio, 47 Laboratory), are internaly wired with it, and all my system will be with this cable, internaly and externaly. I know by experience that it works very well, very natural, simple. Not the best of the world, bien sur, but also very beautiful anf very WAF!

Anyways, please just send a photo of your amp LM if you have one in your computer.
What are your new project? What speakers do you use with your LM3875?

I have other project next to this, it will be a NAKSA80 amplifier.
Do you know it?

Just wait to see how my audiosector will be made, it will be gorgeous.
 
Peter,
Do you supply Kits with Bl Gate caps os just the bl Gates?
Can we talk about this here?
I'd like to use BL Gts in my premium kit. Do I have to change some resistors?

Can I use the PSU board from the audiosector with the 8 diodes to feed a Gaincard?
( I still have a Gaincard from the old days... ).
 
Unfortunately Black Gates are not produced any longer and remaining available caps are so expensive that it's hard to recommend them any longer. Just 4 x BG N 100/50 plus 2 x BG STD 1000/50 would cost you at least $350.

No resistors need to be changed, in my opinion those are still the best choices even when compared with nude Vishays or tantalums.

Yes, the PSU board would be compatible with Gaincard: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-amps/104219-gaincard-power-connector-please-help.html
 
My amp and lightspeed

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/audi...ip-amp-kits-dacs-chassis-183.html#post1272297

follow the link to the lightspeed thread, and also you can google and find kits by Uria.

My chip amp was built as a module that then went inside a larger chassis. I built it using large copper blocks and fairly solid enclosure. It was good, but suffered from being unable to easily disassemble to experiment and tinker. Even with this rigid construction dampened with wood I later found that more dampening was positive. Filling the entire thing with sand actually had a positive effect. Now I tend to build supplies with the caps anchored in silicon on wood to further that effect.
I have now moved to all tube, but that is a progression that took place over time. You will love the chip amp.
 
"
You can source it from Digi Key, part# A29694-ND
$5.28/pc

The wiring is as follows:

Brown (Pin 1): +VDC
Black/White (Pin2 and 3): +-VAC tied together at ground.
Blue (Pin 4): -VDC
"


Great infos!
I was going nuts before just to find out how to make a PSU for the Gaincard, nobody could tell me how simple it can be done. Ridiculous!
Tthat's why I decided to make the Audioector Kit.
I'm happy it happened this way, because I was tempted to make this Kit and I suspect that I will prefer it against the Gaincard - may be they are just a litle bit different, I'll see it later. It will be nice to have both and to have the kit assembled by myself with such enthusiasm.

Thanks for the information and all this nice stuff that you still deliver, like the LM Kits and other items!
 
Photos of chip amp

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/audi...ip-amp-kits-dacs-chassis-183.html#post1272297

follow the link to the lightspeed thread, and also you can google and find kits by Uria.

My chip amp was built as a module that then went inside a larger chassis. I built it using large copper blocks and fairly solid enclosure. It was good, but suffered from being unable to easily disassemble to experiment and tinker. Even with this rigid construction dampened with wood I later found that more dampening was positive. Filling the entire thing with sand actually had a positive effect. Now I tend to build supplies with the caps anchored in silicon on wood to further that effect.
I have now moved to all tube, but that is a progression that took place over time. You will love the chip amp.

Please send us a photo of that amp!
I've nothing against tube amps, all different technologies make good amps.
I even like certain class D amps except for the fact that they lack of a "bit" of Charm... but this is not a subject for this discussion...
 
I found a way to install this kit that is "stupidly" simple (the kit too!), and it does not need damping. But I will have comments, (I hope), in a few weeks - I still have to make a special order for the transformers. ( I changed my mind). It will be ordered to a medical supplier, and will be in an resine bath, inside a beautiful grey case - see the photo

HERE.

They make it exactly with 22Volts secondaries.
65 euros with taxes each one, 300VA 'fcourse.
 
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Lightspeed attenuator for LM3875

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/audi...ip-amp-kits-dacs-chassis-183.html#post1272297

follow the link to the lightspeed thread, and also you can google and find kits by Uria.

My chip amp was built as a module that then went inside a larger chassis. I built it using large copper blocks and fairly solid enclosure. It was good, but suffered from being unable to easily disassemble to experiment and tinker. Even with this rigid construction dampened with wood I later found that more dampening was positive. Filling the entire thing with sand actually had a positive effect. Now I tend to build supplies with the caps anchored in silicon on wood to further that effect.
I have now moved to all tube, but that is a progression that took place over time. You will love the chip amp.

wlowes
I googled a litle and found the lightseed attenuator very interesting. I understood that the quality of contacts is even better than resistor traditional pots, specialy in time.
This device looks very nice :
HERE


Do you know about any kit with several inputs?
If I will built one, I'd like to do it with various inputs.
You made me think.

I'm living and learning !
 
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Connections between Gaincard and compatible PSU from Audiosector

Unfortunately Black Gates are not produced any longer and remaining available caps are so expensive that it's hard to recommend them any longer. Just 4 x BG N 100/50 plus 2 x BG STD 1000/50 would cost you at least $350.

No resistors need to be changed, in my opinion those are still the best choices even when compared with nude Vishays or tantalums.

Yes, the PSU board would be compatible with Gaincard: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/chip-amps/104219-gaincard-power-connector-please-help.html

I don't want to make any mistake.

Each psu module has 4 connections to the Gaincard (or amp), from left to right :

V- - (two "holes")
PG- - (two "holes")
PGplus - (two holes)
Vplus - (two holes)
8 connections total.

1 (brown) 2/3 (black and white), and 4 (blue) from Gaincard go where?
(For dual mono configuration)
Thank you
 
"This is how secondaries connect. For a given pair of wires (same secondary), it doesn't matter which wire connects to which pad, as long as the pads are marked the same (A1,A1 or A2, A2)" - (http://www.audiosector.com/nigc_kit-users_guide.pdf - page 25)

In the case of the Gaincard, black and white are negative and blue and brown have 20 volts. So I concluded that BL and W must go to A1, A1 and blue and brown to A2, A2.


Plese help me to be sure, thank you.
 
Hi, I was going to buy an LM3875 kit from AudioSector but was put off when their site went down. Instead I bought an LM3886 kit from another supplier on this site. Anyway I'm not too impressed by the support I've had and since I am still interested in the LM3875 kit I was wondering how well AudioSector support their customers. Do they answer emails for instance?

Cheers

Davy
 
...I am still interested in the LM3875 kit I was wondering how well AudioSector support their customers. Do they answer emails for instance?

Cheers

Davy

Davy,
I have bought 2 kits from Peter. The premium chip amp and his USB DAC. He was really very helpful. His documentation on DIYAUDIO is very good. If you read through it, I doubt you'll need much help. It you don't put in the effort to learn, he'll likely get a bit brittle. So if you're willing to invest the time, you'll find him very supportive.
 
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